Low Coolant Light
#1
Low Coolant Light
Low Coolant light went on regularly after driving around 8 miles despite full reservoir. Tried new reservoir with sensor times two with no result. Yesterday my mechanic detached the ground plug and the low coolant light is now on continuously. Gonna take it to electrical shop this weekend but wondering if you guys can figure it out? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
#2
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#5
Other Possibilities??
I appreciate all of the advice but as I said I’ve already tried 2 new reservoir/sensor systems from different distributors from different parts of the country so if we assume that it’s not the sensor and remembering that once the ground was unplugged that the light has stayed on continuously, what is the next most likely problem?
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#7
Did you even read the thread I linked to? This is a widespread problem with brand-new expansion tanks - where in the country you bought them is of no consequence. The light is supposed to be on when the sensor is unplugged - you need to bridge the terminals on the plug to put the light out.
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#10
Not all. but enough of the aftermarket ones are faulty that it wouldn't be a surprise to have more than one with a fault. I returned the aftermarket one and got a genuine Jag one which seems to have solved the problem.
#12
Just out of curiosity, did you ohm out/check the original reservoir and compare it with one of the new ones? How does it compare?
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#14
Sticking a magnet on the sensor outside the tank should do the same thing, if the sensor is good.
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DavidYau (04-07-2019)
#15
My ohm meter (Fluke 77 multimeter) is one of my best friends when working on my cars, especially for voltage, resistance and continuity and as we all know, continuity testing is the act of testing the resistance between two points. If there is very low resistance (less than a few Ωs), the two points are connected electrically, and a tone is emitted. If there is more than a few Ωs of resistance, than the circuit is open, and no tone is emitted. Personally, I put my meter in to ohms mode to start as resistance measurements can be very revealing. When I can't see the meter, it then goes in to tone mode so I can hear it. Handy when I'm standing on my head trying to get the probes on a wire buried in the depths of the engine compartment. In my field in the good old days, we referred to this as ohming something out. I tend to ramble on, so, back to my original question: What did the mechanic get when he "continuity" tested the replacement parts vs the original? Did he test the bad sensor/tank? Did it or did it not have continuity? Did he check the connectors and cable? Be nice to know the cause before throwing new parts at it...
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DavidYau (04-07-2019)
#17
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