Low oil pressure after rebuild
#1
Low oil pressure after rebuild
Yesterday was to be the great day. Starting the 2000 XKR after having pulled the engine for a head gasket replacement. New (rebuilt replacement heads), redrilled head bolt threads, new radiator, new A/C condenser,rebuilt A/C hose, primary and secondary reset, transmission fluid , filter, connector replacement. etc. etc. month an a half work.
Started engine after using the priming procedure by removing and reconnecting fuel injector relays. She fired up right away. Initially loud squeals from new belts and cleaned tensioners.
Low oil pressure message, transmission failure.
Bummer.
I spen three week staring at the oil pump while waiting for parts or doing the fix.
So now I am in need of your help again.
Looking back at the rebuild thread "Oh God, what have I done" I see that the low oil pressure message was present since then.
When inspecting the oil pan there was the usual gunk of oil and antifreeze. No metal or plastic parts. The pickup tube looked fine no cracks or blockage of the screen. Did not notice odd angle or loose bolts.
Before reinstalling I blew compressed air into the middle sump area and did find a black/ blueish film like strips. Similar to the paint film on the supercharger fins, similar to oil pan paint, scotch tape thickness. Maybe congealed oil?
I believe I got all out but who knows.
So on first thought a bad oil pump?
Other possible culprits.
Bad oil pressure sensor ( new). Removed and rechecked using a manometer. Only 10psi at idle. I did not dare race the engine. Sensor good.
Blocked oil pressure sensor gallery?
Oil dripped freely while the sensor was off. Plan on blowing air into the hole.
Wrong oil filter?
Used filter from Carquest made by Wik. I do not know if it has a check valve. Looked similar to the construction of the Purolator which is same as the Motorcraft I had before.
Planning on buying Jag one at dealer today.
Thinking oil pressure should have climbed back after a couple seconds.
Wrong oil?
I used synthetic 10-30 plus a quart of Marvel magic oil for break-in.
I've drained and saved the oil.
So how would you recommend I proceed? Should I drop the intermediate sump?
Remove the pickup tube?
Are there any alternative sources for the pump $400+, does the LS pump fit?
Started engine after using the priming procedure by removing and reconnecting fuel injector relays. She fired up right away. Initially loud squeals from new belts and cleaned tensioners.
Low oil pressure message, transmission failure.
Bummer.
I spen three week staring at the oil pump while waiting for parts or doing the fix.
So now I am in need of your help again.
Looking back at the rebuild thread "Oh God, what have I done" I see that the low oil pressure message was present since then.
When inspecting the oil pan there was the usual gunk of oil and antifreeze. No metal or plastic parts. The pickup tube looked fine no cracks or blockage of the screen. Did not notice odd angle or loose bolts.
Before reinstalling I blew compressed air into the middle sump area and did find a black/ blueish film like strips. Similar to the paint film on the supercharger fins, similar to oil pan paint, scotch tape thickness. Maybe congealed oil?
I believe I got all out but who knows.
So on first thought a bad oil pump?
Other possible culprits.
Bad oil pressure sensor ( new). Removed and rechecked using a manometer. Only 10psi at idle. I did not dare race the engine. Sensor good.
Blocked oil pressure sensor gallery?
Oil dripped freely while the sensor was off. Plan on blowing air into the hole.
Wrong oil filter?
Used filter from Carquest made by Wik. I do not know if it has a check valve. Looked similar to the construction of the Purolator which is same as the Motorcraft I had before.
Planning on buying Jag one at dealer today.
Thinking oil pressure should have climbed back after a couple seconds.
Wrong oil?
I used synthetic 10-30 plus a quart of Marvel magic oil for break-in.
I've drained and saved the oil.
So how would you recommend I proceed? Should I drop the intermediate sump?
Remove the pickup tube?
Are there any alternative sources for the pump $400+, does the LS pump fit?
#2
The following users liked this post:
The Coupe (12-08-2013)
#3
Thank you Bob.
It had not even occurred to me that the head shop would have pulled the heads from a XK8/Xj8.
I will check with them. Darn!
It still means tearing the engine apart.
Can this gallery be reached by removing the valve covers?
Is it possible to plug the heads by just removing the front cover?
Will the head shop supply install the plugs. Can I do this?
It had not even occurred to me that the head shop would have pulled the heads from a XK8/Xj8.
I will check with them. Darn!
It still means tearing the engine apart.
Can this gallery be reached by removing the valve covers?
Is it possible to plug the heads by just removing the front cover?
Will the head shop supply install the plugs. Can I do this?
Last edited by Autobahn kid; 12-07-2013 at 11:54 PM.
#4
#5
You hit it on the nose.
My head shop had no idea of the difference on XKR/XK8.
We drilled out the rivet on my spare damaged head and tried to use a M8 plug after cutting threads. The plug would not hold.
Ended up cutting off the threaded section of a hex bolt and cutting with a hack saw on the top to create a slot for a screw driver.
Will post pictures of the head after taking the front cover off. I seem to be developing a talent for tearing this engine apart. Two hours from start to finish.
Used grease on the thread cutting tool to retain the filings. Cleaned using more grease on the folded tip of a shop rag. There is enough room to use the cutting tool.
Installed the plugs with red loctite and left set overnight.
Reassembled the engine and gave it ago. The gage now indicates 90 psi. Previous reading 10 psi.
RESOLVED! Thank you.
Now if I can only figure out why my exhaust manifolds are leaking smoke. New gaskets.
My head shop had no idea of the difference on XKR/XK8.
We drilled out the rivet on my spare damaged head and tried to use a M8 plug after cutting threads. The plug would not hold.
Ended up cutting off the threaded section of a hex bolt and cutting with a hack saw on the top to create a slot for a screw driver.
Will post pictures of the head after taking the front cover off. I seem to be developing a talent for tearing this engine apart. Two hours from start to finish.
Used grease on the thread cutting tool to retain the filings. Cleaned using more grease on the folded tip of a shop rag. There is enough room to use the cutting tool.
Installed the plugs with red loctite and left set overnight.
Reassembled the engine and gave it ago. The gage now indicates 90 psi. Previous reading 10 psi.
RESOLVED! Thank you.
Now if I can only figure out why my exhaust manifolds are leaking smoke. New gaskets.
Last edited by Autobahn kid; 12-11-2013 at 07:49 PM.
#6
Glad it worked out!!
The reason I knew about this was because years ago another mechanic at the Jaguar shop installed a new head on a normally aspirated X308 and had VVT fault indications. Called Tech Line and he learned about the plug in the replacement heads.
He had to tear the front cover down again to drill the plug out.
I'm smart enough to learn from other's mistakes AND to remember them!!!!
I also read all the TSBs that were issued and kept them updated in my folders.
bob gauff
The reason I knew about this was because years ago another mechanic at the Jaguar shop installed a new head on a normally aspirated X308 and had VVT fault indications. Called Tech Line and he learned about the plug in the replacement heads.
He had to tear the front cover down again to drill the plug out.
I'm smart enough to learn from other's mistakes AND to remember them!!!!
I also read all the TSBs that were issued and kept them updated in my folders.
bob gauff
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