Hi, I'm Mark and I live on the Wirral, close to Liverpool in the North West of England. I'm the proud owner of a 1982 Series 3 XJ6 and and a lovely 2001 Daimler Super V8. I've detailed my ownership of the Daimler in a seperate thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...thread-266790/

Ten days ago after a lovely dinner and a drink or two too many we had an auction accident. We sold my wife's lovely Green BMW Convertible about a year ago as we embarked on a house restoration. She missed it a lot so I've been half-heartedly looking for a Jaguar alternative - XK or F-Type, maybe. I spotted a 1999 XK8 on the Car and Classics auction - it's green with a cream/ivory interior just like her BMW, but so much more dramatic and beautiful. With 30 minutes to go in the auction, we upped the current winning bid by £100 with zero expectation of winning. Two Gin and Tonics later, it was ours and we picked it up yesterday from the Trough of Bowland - one of the most beautiful places in England. I now hope to document my ownership story in this thread. I find it very useful to record my car history in this way but it's also a great way of sharing and getting help.




Here's the car after the two hour drive home - very uneventful...

The car has a great history and all the usual stuff has been done - chain tensioners, water pump, Nikasil engine replacement, transmission replacement etc - but after 25 years and very little use in the last four, there's a bit of a list. Here's where I've started - items are listed from front to back and there's no upgrades yet. I'm really interested in feedback and help at this early stage - I know that very little of this is unique...

• Condensation in headlights - I've already watched a couple of YouTube videos on this subject
• Small Oil Leak near dipstick - it appears to be from the Camshaft cover so not a massive job
• New Wiper Blades required
• Loose washer hose
• The only bit of rust I can find is at the top of the drivers side A-pillar
• Convertible roof needs a good clean inside and out including all the rubbers - there's an area on top which has discoloured when the PO spilt car wax on it. Not sure how to get that right
• Dipping rear view mirror - usual fluid leakage so I'm on the lookout for a replacement with auto-light on capability
• Drivers seat adjustment completely failed - already fixed with a new fuse
• The switchpack in the Drivers door is poor and not operating the door mirrors and struggling with the Drivers window. I pulled the switch apart, cleaned it all up and fixed it last night
• Radio/Cassette not turning on. It's not a fuse so I'm going to have to pull it out and hope it's something else simple
• Passenger side rear quarter light needs some adjustment to meet up with Passenger window. I can tug it back into place now and it seals but there's obviously some sort of adjustment I need to do
• Side indicator lenses discoloured
• There's a temporary aerial mast. I don't know whether the motor is dead or whether I just need to put in a new mast - either way it should be fairly easy
• Tyres have lots of tread but are 8 years old and have suffered from the car standing so much. I'll put on a new set and do all the tracking etc
• The PO put on a Stage 1 performance exhaust. It sounds great but we might not be able to put up with the resonance when accelerating gently at low speed. We'll see.
• The paint is peeling off the trim over the rear number plate. An easy fix but I'm wondering if I can put on a chrome trim with release button from an earlier car

That's it really. Hopefully nothing expensive other than the tyres. I'll get it checked over and do an oil service but so far so good! I'll be really interested in any other areas I should be looking at - I'm not new to Jags but I've got a lot to learn.

I have to say we love the car. I can feel a trip to Spain coming on....

 

Do you mean "Transmission fluid replacement"? Depending upon mileage, fluid plus transmission filter and differential oil replacement are the most obvious service needs.

Richard

 

No, Richard, it had a replacement transmission about 8,000 miles ago so I'm thinking that won't need servicing yet. The diff oil is a good call - I'll add it to the list.

Thanks

Mark

 

The diff oil change could be an adventure.
There are several threads detailing how members have overcome the obstacles.

 

Having one or two too many drinks seems to be a prerequisite for buying one of these older XK8s Anyway the car looks great and there is still not much in the way of modern cars that can hold a candle to the looks of the XK8/XKR. The main PITA with having an older vehicle is small dumb things that go wrong and cannot easily be replaced. The two niggling things I am dealing with are a non-functioning antenna (believe the cable is wrapped up inside) and the button that opens the boot (likely a broken wire in the link harness from the boot to the lid). But I am bringing the car into my local independent guy for upper shock mounts and will ask him if he also wants to fiddle with the smaller stuff.

 

"Convertible roof needs a good clean inside and out including all the rubbers - there's an area on top which has discoloured when the PO spilt car wax on it. Not sure how to get that right"

I was attempting to seal my top (roof) about a month ago and the 303 product I used left some serious residue behind. I tried some cleaner specifically for canvas to remove it but not much change. On the advice of a friend I tried dish detergent (Dawn liquid). It worked great and got even more soil out than my first cleaning. Threw away the 303 and sealed it with Raggtopp protectant. Looks great and darkened my 25 year old black top to like new.

For the rubber seals, I started with an all purpose cleaner then finished with Gummi Pflege Stift restorer. Highly recommended.

Hope this helps.

 

I did mine convertible years ago using the "two-inch hole in boot" method. There is usually no other quick way with my convertible model. My XK8 had done about 75k miles and the gearbox fluid was fine but the differential oil was in a shocking state. If you can only do one, I would recommend doing the diff.

Richard

 

I've done a couple of antenna repairs on my X308s. I took the mechanism apart and found that it was just the original silicon lube that had congealed and blocked the mechanism. I just gave it a proper clean internally, removing all the old grease, and relubed. It's pretty straightforward so long as you're patient - it might not be the answer for you but worth having a look.

On that subject, I've had a look at my aerial this morning and it turns out that a PO has removed the old electric aerial and replaced it with a fairly horrible stick. I can't work out where I'd fix an electrical aerial motor as the hood mechanism, amp and CD player seem to be in the way. I don't suppose you'd have some guidance or even a photo you could share?

 

Hey Mark--the antenna thing is pretty much my fault since for a while the motor was running for several seconds past the point of full extension and I was planning to change the mast. I waited too long and the motor does not run at all whether I turn the radio on or off so I just have the antenna extended. When I removed the mast to inspect there was like maybe an inch of mast attached which means the rest of the mast is wrapped up inside the mechanism. I think Gus' website had a good write up on removing the antenna and I also found a Youtube that shows how. It is really not that big of a deal and something I would have readily tackled 10 years ago. Ditto for the boot-to-lid link harness. But both of these items are more of a PITA to get to and deal with and since the car will be in the shop anyway I will see if they want to do those small things as well.

 

I've seen a YouTube video on making a small inspection hatch in the boot to access the diff - not sure I could achieve the same results.. Added the diff oil to the list anyway since the gearbox fluid should be fine.

 

The "hole in the boot" method is fairly easy if you take your time and take care to drill the hole in the right place the first time. However, some models seem to have enough access from below to reach the level/fill plug in the back of the diff so it's worth checking first before drilling.

Richard

 

I replaced my aerial last week. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take pix, which I normally do. Anyway, the procedure is fairly easy. I found it much easier to get a good, tested, original assembly from eBay.

Look to the left of the cage that holds the amp, nav system, etc. There is a flange with two oval shaped holes, one above the other. If the PO has completely removed the power antenna assembly these holes may be empty. This is where the power antenna bracket bolts. In the area you should also see a white connector with three wires, and the antenna cable that connects the antenna to the stereo unit.

The replacement antenna should have the L-shaped bracket attached to the bottom of the motor. Once the old antenna is out of the way, simply insert the new assembly into the area between the inside of the quarter panel and said flange. Horizontally, with the antenna pointing forward is easiest. Rotate the assembly to the vertical and insert the antenna through the body hole. (The rubber grommet should already be installed onto the body.) Attach the power connector and the antenna cable. Then align the L-shaped bracket's holes with the oval holes in the flange, insert bolts (a 1/4" drive ratchet with extension, and a 10mm socket is required) loosely. Go outside and install the chrome bezel onto the antenna mast and tighten. (14mm wrench). Go back and snug up the bracket bolts and Bob's your uncle.

These power antennas are such anachronisms. But I don't like the looks of any of the fixed antennas available, so...

 

That's a huge help, thanks.

There's something I love about an electric aerial that actually works. They're not pretty but they seem to take me back in time. I'm keen to get one in and working 😉

 

Updates for the list:

• Radio problem isn't a fuse. There's power to the unit but it's completely dead. I've sourced and installed a replacement and now have sound. What's it's highlighted is that the subwoofers in the rear are knackered. Has anyone had any success with alternatives in the UK? I've seen lots of posts about Kickers but don't seem to be able to source them in the UK
• I'll now add a DAB receiver and Bluetooth. I'll probably install the Pure Highway that I've used on several cars now. I think I'll wire a USB socket and an AUX connector into the centre storage box and take out the redundant phone handset in there
• The leak by the dipstick isn't oil - it's PAS fluid. I can't tell whether it's from the pump or the hose from the reservoir - I'll try to clean the area and work it out tomorrow. Fingers crossed that it's simple but the sharing of your experience would help. In particular, what's a good technique for identifying the source of the leak?
• I've got my wallet out and ordered tyres, side indicator lenses, drive belt, spark plugs, wiper blades and filters. The tyres are being fitted tomorrow
• I'm trying to locate a replacement rear view mirror but will need to have a look at the connector to see which one I need. They're so expensive that I also need to look at alternatives but don't really want to lose the auto lighting feature
• I've found the mounting bracket for an electric aerial but can't find the connector! A bit of detective work required but the guidance provided already will help
• I've only got one key fob and it's not in good shape. In fact, my initial fix is no longer working. I'm on the lookout for replacements but they're scarce and expensive over here. Has anyone had any luck with alternatives to the LJA2610BA fib?

We've had a couple of days of snow and ice over here and there's salt on the roads so I've not taken her out since the weekend. Hopefully, I'll have all the bits and pieces ironed our for when the temperature rises a little.

I've also discovered John Dee's @tothegarage YouTube channel along with @ODRModurol - some really helpful stuff and I've got a lot of reading to do...

 

Good description but if you want one with annotated photos here is where to go: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...20Repair-1.pdf
The one additional thing not mentioned in your description is there is some drain line that extends from the bottom of the assembly down through some grommet in the frame of the car. The shop that I just brought my car in for the upper shock mounts presumably did the antenna repair for me and I will see how good they did when I get the car back.

 

We've put a few miles on the XK8 before finishing off the jobs on the XJ6 (principally an overhaul of the fuel injectors and replacement of all the under-bonnet fuel lines after one had sprung a leak), to free up garage space for the new car. I got a full set of new tyres and the nice lads at Costco allowed me into the workshop to have a proper good luck at the underside of the car while it was on the ramp. I was delighted with the condition - no signs of rust at all and everything nice and tight. The only thing that the Costco guys and I found was the oil leak that I already knew about, and a slightly buckled front wheel which became apparent when they were balancing it. I want to get the wheels spruced up and maybe painted so we can sort out the buckle then.

During the "shake down" miles, the only new issue which has come up is occasional restricted performance. The error codes tell me that there are issues with the RH knock sensor and upstream O2 sensor. I'll work through the troubleshooting processes from the workshop manual in the next week to identify the cause. Hopefully, it's just flakey contacts but it's not a big issue if I need to replace them - they're freely available at reasonable cost.

I looked for a replacement genuine electric aerial but they're all a bit pricey so I bought a cheap generic one off eBay, I tracked down the wiring which a PO had taped away (he'd cut off the standard connector so that would have been an issue with a genuine aerial), and used the existing mounting to get a nice fit for the generic aerial. It works perfectly with the repaired radio and I've even loaded a few CD's into the changer. I just now need to source some new sub-woofer speakers for the rear.

The first significant job I wanted to tackle was the oil leak so I removed the LH valve cover. The good news is that all the tensioners have been replaced and it all looks in great shape. The bad news is that the valve cover is in a right state - no wonder there's so many leaks. All the mounting holes were cracked, the inserts were missing for most of the spark plug cover bolts and someone has had a rather feeble attempt to plug the cracks. There was a day left on a 30% discount offer at JLR Classics so I bit the bullet and bought a new cover. It includes all the fixings and gaskets so the net increase on what I expected to pay is acceptable and within budget. It should be here in the next day or two and I've used the delay to replace spark plugs, accessory belt and air filter. Oil, filter and coolant change will wait 'til the new cover is on then I can move onto the cosmetic stuff.

The target is to ensure that we're confident in taking the car for a 4 week trip to Spain and Portugal in mid April - the ship from Plymouth to North-West Spain is already booked!

 

I shouldn't be surpised that as I work from nose to tail, new issues arise and I was expecting this one but it is extending the work.

The new cam cover arrived from JRL Classics. What a pleasure to get a new, clean cover with all the gaskets and bolts already in place enabling me to slip it on, torque it up and put everything back in place. The 30% January discount made all the difference although I have to say that the new (later) cover doesn't seem as substantial as the old one.

The big test was to degrease and clean all the old oil off the engine and go for a hundred mile round trip to see if I'd fixed all the sources of the oil leaks or just one of them. So far so good - not a drop of fresh oil to be seen and with the assurance of genuine Jaguar parts, I'm hoping it will stay that way.

In the same trip I also tested whether the work I'd done on the RH Knock Sensor and Upstream O2 sensor had been succesfull. I'd cleaned the contacts on both and also removed the KS and cleaned up both the sensor and cylinder head surfaces. After the same 100 mile trip I had no restricted performance instances and no more error codes for the Knock Sensor. The O2 sensor code is still there, however, I'll have another look and possibly replace it. I had a go at loosening it up with a 02 sensor socket and breaker bar from the top of the engine but struggled. Does anyone have any tips for me?

I also cleaned up the engine bay, fitted a new serpentine belt, replaced the sagging bonnet struts and fitted a new Air Filter and Spark plugs. Other than an oil and coolant change and getting to the bottom of the O2 sensor issue, I'm finished now under the bonnet.

I've been a little concerned about some rust discoloration on the carpet in the rear drivers side footwell so removed the drivers seat and am halfway through the rear seat an trim (so much easier in the convertible). Sure enough there's a collection of water under the rear seat. I'm presuming that it's a poor seal and/or blocked drain somewhere. I've been reading up on other people's experience but it would be good to know if anyone has a decent set of steps to go through to identify where the water is coming in. I've not found anything but a bit of suface rust and rusted bolt heads so I'm feeling positive.

The wheels are coming off tomorrow to take them to a local wheel specialist and getting them tidied up and painted, and either fix or replaced the buckled wheel. I've asked for recommendations for colour on another thread - I was thinking of white gold but someone has just come back with pewter - that might be a little more in keeping.

While the wheels are off I'll have a proper look at the brakes and suspension components. Fingers crossed - Again!


Lots of evidence of water ingress including actual water!
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Spray the base of that stubborn O2 sensor with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. Spray it again the next day and let it soak overnight again. Removal should be much easier then....

 

You chaps always talk about PB Blaster but I didn't think we could get it in the UK and I always end up using WD40. I just checked and it's available on Amazon UK. I've ordered two tins and will be using it as soon as it arrives!

I can't see any reason why I shouldn't be able to loosen the sensor up from above without removing anything but the air intake but I'll see...

 

Mark (and others) -

If you can't obtain PB Blaster, there's a home concoction that some say is even better. I've used it and it does work quite well. Mix up a 50/50 batch of transmission fluid and acetone; I think you'll be pleasantly surprised!

Mickey