I made an appt for my mechanic to check my car after "check engine" light came on. I had already pulled the code P0171 and had read all I could about it.

Never want to go to the mechanic sounding totally ignorant - especially as a woman.

They secured a loose intake boot and cleaned the MAF sensor. Cost nearly nothing. We'll see if the CEL stays off. I had a few other small things done - filters, oil.

BUT, they told me I need new "REAR HUB BEARINGS" because they are loose. COST would be about $1400. I told him I would keep that under consideration. Wish I had a mechanic friend since I understand most of the cost is labor.

2 questions:

(1) Is this a reasonable cost?
(2) What would be the symptoms of loose hub bearings? My car runs smooth with no noises or rumbling or shaking or anything at any speed.


I've used the mechanic for about 10 years for several different cars & have never had reason to think they were pulling a fast one.

Just don't want to have something fixed that hasn't shown any problem so long as not fixing it now won't lead to further/worse problems. I did ask what would happen if I didn't get it fixed. He said (as I have read in the forum) that I would hear loud noises from the rear that would be worse at high speeds.

At a minimum, I think I need to have someone else look at the car before shelling this out.

Any opinions?

 

I had the same repair done a few months ago in Sacramento, CA and the cost was about $1500. You can source the bearings for less on the internet and save some money (about $250 vs. $400 from the dealer). I had a leak and that's why I did the bearings. You won't notice noise as the bearings go bad. What you will notice after the bearings are replaced is the elimination of a high frequency vibration that you never noticed until it's gone.

 

I can't comment on the cost in the US but DaveC's recent experience with the same issue indicates it's reasonable.

You say you've used the same mechanic for about 10 years and never had any reason to doubt them but I can fully appreciate questioning the need for this work before giving them the go ahead.

The Rear Hub has an Inner Bearing (arrowed on the left), an Outer bearing (arrowed on the right) and two Pivot bearings (arrowed in blue):



They have either found play in one or more of these bearings or can feel/hear it's not rotating smoothly. The description 'loose' suggests it's play. In either case, they should be able to demonstrate to you exactly what has given them reason to highlight it as a cause for concern.

Graham

 

If the rear bearings are indeed failing, you should be able to see obvious movement (and perhaps a noise when doing so) in the wheel when pushing/pulling on it in the 12-6:00 direction. My "british" mechanic told me the fronts are the ones that usually take a beating and need replacing sooner, but I did have both mine replaced at 110,000 miles. You're not even close to that, so I'd be more diligent about asking for some evidence of the symptoms leading them to their diagnosis. Oh, and in 2010, I paid $1600 for those new puppies!

 

Ok. I have a thought here. If you have the car on a hoist, and position your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, rock the tire and wheel up and down, and get excessive "play" while doing this.... you may notice that the axle itself is actually moving in and out slightly at the differential. You need to also position your hands at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and try the same rocking motion. If there is none, you probably don't need the wheel hub bearings. But, you "may" need to investigate the diff side bearings. Some of that movement I would consider normal at the differential. I am certain that there is a spec for it someplace! Another consideration are the taper bearings at either end of the lower part of the hub casting. These are more likely to fail (in my opinion...) than the actual hub bearings. And, they are much more reasonably priced to repair! Just more for you to think about! Let us know what you find.

 

Before you do it, get several quotes. $1400 sounds like full dealership cost. There are some indy mechanics that will charge you actual hours instead of just quoting alldata and always ask if they can give you a discount on the parts. It's best to find an enthusiast mechanic rather than dealership or warranty repair shops.

 

The key to saving money on this repair is to source the bearings yourself. I saved over $170/bearing doing my own search. Ask the shop for the Jaguar part# and have it drop shipped. I may be off on my cost for the repair since I had the rear brakes and rotors done at the same time plus upper and lower raidiator hoses and aluminum t-stat tower all done at the same time.

I do agree that 60k miles for this repair is early since I was told that mine at 82k was early. Is your differential leaking now?

 

DaveC, I was not told the differential is leaking. I just got a referral for a different mechanic. A bit of a drive, but I will be seeing him soon about a few things..

 

Samantha,
You almost certainly don't need hub bearings! Our Jags are designed to have .003 in endfloat which some mechanics may inerprit as bad bearings. Our bearings are set with shims, you cant take out the slack by tightening the hub nut. If your rear end is quiet ( sorry that didnt sound quite right) you are most probably in good shape. I replaced my rear wheel bearings about 6 months ago because one failed. After using a dial indicator and the correct shim to set the endfloat there is still a very small amount of play. It is normal. Call the service dept at Stevinson Jaguar in Denver, they are very heplful and will confirm my response. Good luck. Noise or really excessive play is what you want to look for. I dont think you mechanic of ten years is trying to rip you off, its just these cars have some idiosycrasies that not every one understands.

 

Thanks much. At that cost and with no signs of trouble, I am definitely looking into it.

Actually, my rear end is pretty quiet. :-)

 

I just paid $1200. in Santa Cruz at a indy shop for this job, which now sounds like a deal.
At 77K miles

 

Sure does. In CA no less. Thought things would be more pricey there.

 

You were correct in your diagnosis. I saw a Jag mechanic that was recommended on this forum. I was very impressed with the shop. I had checked him out on Google. Beamed in on his location and saw a lot full of Jags. Nice sign.

Anyhoo, I do not need new hub bearings. He agreed with you that whoever said that was not familiar with the car.

So thankful I got a 2nd opinion. I'll be going to him from now on.

The owner was also a great guy. Owns 3 Jags. Didn't charge me anything to look over the car. I'll be back tomorrow to get a few things done. Lowest service costs I've seen.

This forum is the best party online. Can't say thanks enough.

 

Good news Samantha.
Don't be shy to give the shop a name check.

 

I was gonna say, rear bearings seldom fail unless youve been in high water, and a cel on for it no. Abs maybe, not a cel. What code? And has it returned? Rear always have some play, have to, front sealed bearing never

 

Would you mind telling me how many miles you have on the car and have you ever had trouble with the front wheel bearings?

Thanks

 

If this is directed to me, I have almost 61k. I have never had any problems with the front or rear.

 

Glad to hear you got your Jag all sorted out. You have to be soooo careful with some of these "indy" shops. They can't wait to give you the Jaguar "discount!"