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Methanol/Water Injection vs. Killer Chiller

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:48 PM
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Default Methanol/Water Injection vs. Killer Chiller

I will be upgrading the supercharger on my 2002 XKR early next year. I have already decided on going to a larger lower pulley and on porting the supercharger. I will also be installing a larger intercooler and pump, all from Eurotoys. The larger intercooler and pump will help with the extra heat generated by the s/c following this mod but I'm concerned if it will be enough, especially as I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth area, where it gets very hot in the summer. Therefore, I'm also considering a methanol/water system or a Killer Chiller, which is essentially a small air conditioner that cools the air after being compressed but before entering the cylinders. The Killer Chiller seems simpler but I have no experience with either. If there is anyone here that in knowledgeable on one or the other of these systems (and I'm sure there are) can you explain the advantages/disadvantages of each. Is one likely to be more problematic than the other or more difficult to install, etc. Thanks,

Mark
 
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:48 AM
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One thing to consider, is that anytime you inject something into the engine, you have to be VERY careful of the amount of liquid put into the engine. Reason I say this, is because when the injection system fails (and it will), you will have one of two results, either nothing is injected (good news) or too much is injected (expensive bad news), I have seen many a racer's engine blow because too much liquid got into a cylinder and hydro-locked the engine.

With that said, I do not know of chiller killer, but when I was looking for a supercharger for my vette, Procharger recommended methanol only, do not remember the reason, you could call them and ask.

Not sure on the R, but if it gets cooled by oil, I would upgrade to bigger oil lines also.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:42 AM
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I don't know much about the killer chiller other than reading through the installation instructions, but it seems like the water/methanol system would be easier to install, if only because working on the AC system required tools that most of us don't have, to recover the refrigerant, evacuate the system and refill it.

It also seems like the purpose of the two systems is a little different. The killer chiller is aimed at cooling the charge and making more power whereas the water injection is for increasing the effective octane rating, preventing knock and keeping carbon deposits at bay.

As an engineer I'm a little skeptical about the killer chiller's methods since the AC system wasn't designed for that additional heat load, so wonder if it might make the cabin uncomfortable in the summer. You are also rejecting heat to the condenser coil, which sits out in front of the radiator, and intercooler, so I wonder if it will actually result in much of a difference in the intercooler water temperature. Lastly, most cars will shut off the AC compressor at WOT, just the time when you need it most. On the upside, it is a closed system and doesn't take additional maintenance to use it.

Water injection does need to be refilled but can be set up to come on only when there is a need. You can reuse the washer reservoir and save some precious space (unless you trunk mount it) which I think will make it easier to install than the chiller.

Personally I chose the water injection because I was wanting to run higher boost and was more concerned with detonation prevention.

Here are some links talking about the benefits and how it works:
RSR Water Injection Calculator

Also a scientific study from the War Department (yep, it's that old) detailing how cylinder temps, pressures and knock are affected by introducing water.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/naca_H2O.pdf

It will be an interesting project either way you go. Keep us posted.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:24 AM
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I also have in my plans for next year a 'heatsoak minimizer', which will run the fans based directly on intercooler temperature relative to ambient temperature.

I do not expect it to be quite as effective as water/methanol or killer chiller, but will be cheaper and simpler.

Especially with an upgraded intercooler radiator and/or pump, I expect it to be effective. Of course it is just conceptual now, and testing will be needed to validate the performance.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 11-10-2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:30 PM
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I have used both systems in my car. The Killer Chiller is designed to cool the intake charge, not make more power. The car in the middle of the summer will run like it does on a cool fall day. The setup I have includes an isolated & rerouted cooling system with 2 punps, no intercooler & a large tank to hold coolant. The gauge that moniters the coolant coming out of the coolers shows the coolant temp & ambient to be very close. I do have to admit that bthe a/c on a hot day @ idle could be better but with the refrigerant they recommend it is ok. The comment made about the a/c shutting off under WOT may be true, however you are already running much cooler air to start, the system is filled with colder coolant & how often are you driving WOT. I am able to watch the coolant temp go up under high boost conditions (18-21 psi) & as soon as I back off the throttle watch the temp drop down.

The water methanol system which I no longer use & would love to sell was from Snow Performance. The way they recomend you install it is before the throttle, this allows the water to cool the air going into the blower. When the sytem is activated you can feel the difference. I found out the hard way you can't use both at the same time.

If you are willing to spend the time & money the Killer Chiller is the way to go from my own experince.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:40 PM
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ccfulton, very interesting post. I'm an engineer as well and had some similar questions, hence my post. Killer Chiller claims it only raises the cabin temp by 7 or 8 degrees. Which shouldn't be bad; even on 100+ days in Texas, my XKRs air conditioner can freeze you out.

The more research I do, the more I don't actually like either system. It's not like I'm hammering the s/c all the time any way. I only ever really push it for short bursts, which really should not cause the coolant to get saturated. I'm now thinking that WhiteXKRs proposed system may be more in line with what I need. Also, I trust WhiteXKR more than anyone on any of these sites trying to sell you their system.

Thanks to all; I believe I will go with WhiteXKR''s system. If I find I need more in the future (doubtful), I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Mark
 

Last edited by mjlaris; 11-10-2012 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:55 PM
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The problem you have being in Texas is you can't appreciate how much better these cars run in the cooler climate. You may want to look into upgrading your intake setup to 3.5 with a new air meter. This is a great way to get in more air.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
The problem you have being in Texas is you can't appreciate how much better these cars run in the cooler climate. You may want to look into upgrading your intake setup to 3.5 with a new air meter. This is a great way to get in more air.
I'm game, what exactly would I look for in this new air meter (3.5 what scfm?) and where would I buy it?

I do admit that I don't often drive it in cold (or even very cool) weather. I also have an X-Type that I drive in the winter and last winter didn't drive my XKR at all after it got cold (I should say cool because it never really gets what I would call cold in Texas. Having grown up in central New York, I know what cold is and Texas ain't it).

Mark
 

Last edited by mjlaris; 11-10-2012 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
I found out the hard way you can't use both at the same time.
If you don't mind sharing, I am interested to know what happened.

Having installed a Snow system and with a twin screw on the way, I would appreciate your perspective on how not to break things.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mjlaris
I'm game, what exactly would I look for in this new air meter (3.5 what scfm?) and where would I buy it?
You would need one that is calibrated for our cars with a 3.5in tube. Fortunately, our friend Mr Vos has has gotten one created for his twin screw setup.

3.5" Pro-Tube - Mass Air Meters

You could also get a stand alone meter and make your own tube but the diameter is a critical dimension.
 
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ccfulton
If you don't mind sharing, I am interested to know what happened.

Having installed a Snow system and with a twin screw on the way, I would appreciate your perspective on how not to break things.
I had problems with the piston rings, the car started to use a quart of oil every couple of hundred miles. It turns out the water meth alone is fine but with the Killer Chiller it was turning the mist or steam into water droplets. The water meth is a good idea but not needed with the Twin Screw.

When will you be installing the Twin Screw? You will be very pleased with the performance. I have had mine for 2 years now.
 
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
The water meth is a good idea but not needed with the Twin Screw.

When will you be installing the Twin Screw? You will be very pleased with the performance. I have had mine for 2 years now.
The bulk of the parts should arrive around the end of the year.

What really convinced me to do the water injection was a guy I work with who runs a Kenne Bell on his Mustang. At one point he broke it due to detonation and now swears by the water/meth injection.

I figure it's relatively cheap insurance given how hot is is where I live and that 91 is the best gas commonly available.

Besides, I needed something to do on the car between now and when the big project shows up.
 
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:19 AM
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I'm really engaged in this dislog you're having! I truly learn on Jaguar forums and ClubLexus.com
 
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