Thought I would start a thread on my adventure after reading another one done here. I think my starting place is a little better but feel free to flame me with any are you out of your mind comments.
While recently finding myself wanting another convertible in my life I started searching the web. I have to first say that this new fangled internet thing is a real problem for the mildly addictive personality. After searching the several sites I found my new love on the car dating site known as craigslist. There I ran across an ad for a car I always thought was one of the most well designed looks of all time.
Sapphire Blue 1997 convertible was staring back at me from my laptop and of course the price said come see me, my first inclination was something must be wrong with it. I spent the next few days reading here and other places about possible defects that would be out of the norm repairs for a 120K mile car.

The biggest scare was the early motors having issues with cylinders which sounds like it be a real deal killer. Well after a few days I got up the courage to call and visit. I have to admit I was actually surprised to see how good it still looked. After a few minutes of conversation we got to the part that would tell the first truth of our relationship. Standing behind the car I was pleased to hear a quick relatively easy start with no smoke or funny smells. Well that is all it took for me as at the price I was convinced with the work the owner said was done in the last couple years including a new transmission, new belts and hoses, less than 10K on new tires and the top operated perfectly I thought it was worth the risk.

Now basically being hooked for the things immediately bad.
1. The final straw for owner and why they were selling was the steering leaking as a diagnosis of $2500 to be able to drive it again. Not the best since no test drive could be done, but at the worst a full swap of system would fix it.
2. The obvious issue with the chrome revolvers due to living up north, the age and salt have worked its way in there causing one wheel to have an issue holding air, pitting and pealing. I will have to see what can be done to save or replace as I have to. My guess is no more than $400 for some used Jag wheels as my initial thought is keep it all Jag.
3. Clear coat is pealing hood, trunk and a little on top of rear fender. Will have to see how well things go before tackling the cost of new paint, but sure I can get it to something close to a 20 footer with some touch up in the driveway if things start to go bad.
4. Suspension is exactly what you would expect to find in a car almost 20 years old, time for all new parts. If is a joint or bushing it is time for replacing.
5. Minor interior issue with door panels from work being done internally however no seat tears in leather.
6. Climate control LCD going out so you can't read it being about half black.

While I was never a mechanic by trade I always liked the challenge of working on cars. I have bought more cars with over 100K than those with less. My most recent project was with my daughter and her first car a 98 TJ Wrangler we brought home on a trailer. Took us two weekends before we could take if for a spin. Then all the normal stuff for a car with 150K miles.

I am sure to find other issues as I get to drive further than on and off a trailer. Stay tuned and I will try to share how things go with the adventure and what I find for best information on repairing things. My wife says I am the King of finding deals.

 

What did you pay for her??? I get mine from a farmer's barn, with lumber and chicken crap on it for $3000, and drove her home. I did replace the trans a couple of weeks later. After that, I replaced the secondary timing chain tensioners, and did cosmetic work. She has been a fun project......Mike

 

TexMurphy, welcome to the most rewarding and flustrating car you will ever own! They are a beauty though!

You'll find all the answers to your issues here and a lot of good folks to help along the way.

From your brief description of needed repairs, doing the work yourself, I'd say you are in for a few grand to get her sorted out not including paint.
Good luck

 

Mrplow,
So I almost feel guilty to say what I paid for it. Funny same amount I paid for my 68 corvette convertible when it was only 10 years old.
I paid less than almost any visit to the dealer would be. However I did pay the exact amount answered to what do you want for it. Was second owner since car was soldas a Jag dealer used car still under warranty with all receipts from work done since. The price was not much more than last set of tire.

 

Jandreu,
I am betting steering and suspension all done for under $300. I will let you know. Has almost new front rotors and pads so hopefully brakes will be happy.

So does anyone know if Jag did recall type replacement on chain tensioners? I am guessing mine are original unless changed with less than 30k miles. That is a job that reads as being a busy weekend.

 

There was never a recall for the tensioner upgrade. You are on your own with the help of the forum. It should be near the top of your list. The plastic will get brittle from age even with low mileage.

 

Thanks for info on tensioners, didn't think it would have been. Had to ask since it sounds like a bit of work. No reson to ask Jaguar about that then. Would be nice to complete my records if there was a way to get info on dealer repairs logged by original owner.

 

As others have stated throughout various threads in the forum - "this forum is the best tool in a Jaguar owner's tool box."

If you haven't already, I would set the below links in your favorites as you will refer to them regularly:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Secondly - contact SNG Barratt's for a free parts catalog

Third - get a blue tooth OBD reader and download Torque Pro - for under $20.00, you can identify codes, then use the forum references to troubleshoot the issues.

Steve

 

Bought a scanner years ago will investigate the difference your suggestion would give. So they have a paper catalog thats great. Links are great. I think it might be true that it is almost as exciting to read about fixes than actually doing them. A good tutorial has saved me more than once when turning wrenches.

 

This one might be an easy fix if it is just one of the led bulbs.
I think I have the same problem and found instructions/video on how to change the climate control bulbs. They cost about 8 each on eBay here
Jaguar Xj6 VDP Xj8 Xk8 Lcd Bulb For AC Panel 1996-2003 NOS OEM JLM11965

Good luck.

 

Pretty sure mine is lcd and not back lighting. Mine is like the black a number would be across bottom half of screen. I think it is the lcd itself but possible a good cleaning of board and related pins could fix. Researching it the one in my car is the same part used in several different cars and configurations. Using pictures on ebay where part number is on back you can see how this part was also combined in a configuration that put buttons below mine on top. So many of the less expensive and more plentiful being disassembled is good. I will be waiting on this till later interior work is done as functionality is all still okay.

 

Okay can report first good parts deal for my steering. Found a guy with both high pressure and cooling hoses for my power steering. New parts purchased not installed on his car before selling it. Less than half price of what it costs to buy high pressure side. Fingers crossed I can install hose and be able to fully test balance for leaks. Should allow for neighborhood test drive. Found out what rack seal kit is required if I have to go there, and would most likely go for pump rebuild just to complete the all new clean system. Oh yea guy gave me the new filter he had. Sweet deal for $60 looks like another $60 for seal kits if required.
Any of you rebuild a rack? Do you think excess wear could be an issue with metal parts at 120k

 

TexMurphy, Not the whole thing, but this should give you a direction and a look at what is in your future.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-hose-108685/


Wayne

 

Thanks Wayne that is on the money for my first get real. Will be doing the same this weekend as hose is ship tracking to be here Thursday. I wonder how many weekends in a row I can work on the car before my wife makes me take a weekend off and do some husband time.

 

While I pay heavy shipping charges living in Hawaii, I replaced everything except the springs and steering rack under the front of my 03 last year. Total parts bill and machine shop charge to remove and install lower ball joints was $900.

Shocks - $110 each, upper shock mounts - $80 each, ball joints upper and lower, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, upper control arm bushings, tie rood ends, lower control arm bushings, I think you get the idea.

It all depends on how well you want the car to handle. These are GT cars not Sports cars so the handling is not crisp and any deteriation in the rubber bits amplifies this.
Anyway good luck and with the help around here you are in good hands.

 

Maybe I am missing something but when doing the front if looks like everything is about $450 plus shipping ordering from an online store that I used for a reference price using after market parts not getting anywhere close to $900. I also regularly get 40% off at a national parts store using their online purchase and pickup at store program which often beats the best online stores. I try to use moog when possible on front end work and have always had good results. A few parts are listing URO and Lemfoerder which I have no experience with. Any comment on URO or Lemfoerder brand, seems to get decent reviews? I really haven't done a full check to see how the shocks are performing and only a quick bounce test, but would probably replace unless I think they are recent doing this much work in the area. Wasn't counting shock price originally when guessing the $300.

 

I purchased and installed myself a refurbished rack from The Rack Doctor, just $230 with exchange. I can definitely give them a thumbs up!

 

BTW Lemforder is a good brand, in fact, Lefmorder is the OEM for new control arms...but also, the most expensive that I have found. I too, use MOOG when using aftermarket parts like sway bar ends, tie rod ends, etc. For bushings, I purchased the purple ones from Powerflex and use OEM rubber for the sway bar mount bushings. Its personal preference, but the one time I tried urethane bushings under the sway bar, there was WAY too much vibration transferred to the steering wheel.

 

Regarding the cam chain tensioners, it is not that difficult to pull the cam covers to inspect the upper tensioners, although the oil dipstick tube bracket is a bit of a pain to work out of the way. While it is likely with that many miles they have been done, it would certainly add to your peace of mind to know with certainty. If you do that certainly replace the gaskets while you are at it. Have you inspected for rust damage ? While that may be dismaying to discover, the sooner you know the better you can plan for repairs, mention of salt exposure raised a flag in that regard.

 

Good advice all around. As to rust I didn't notice anything obvious, I read a post talking about floor pan issue. Is that is what you are referring to? Where have you experienced finding rust?