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I’m about to pull the trigger on replacing my premium head unit with a Pioneer flat screen mounted below the air vents. Part of the installation is to bypass the factory amp in order to continue to use the wiring for the stock speakers.
The head unit has a built in amp and says it pushes out 14 watts RMS/50 watts peak x 4 channels. I know this doesn’t sound like much, but is it enough to power the stock speakers?
Ideally, I’d like to only replace the head unit, and not need a new amplifier, which is why I’m asking you all for advice.
For speakers, again, I’d like to use the stock set up as much as possible, but have read that new subs in the real panels are a nice add, for a bit more bass.
I’m about to pull the trigger on replacing my premium head unit with a Pioneer flat screen mounted below the air vents. Part of the installation is to bypass the factory amp in order to continue to use the wiring for the stock speakers.
The head unit has a built in amp and says it pushes out 14 watts RMS/50 watts peak x 4 channels. I know this doesn’t sound like much, but is it enough to power the stock speakers?
Ideally, I’d like to only replace the head unit, and not need a new amplifier, which is why I’m asking you all for advice.
For speakers, again, I’d like to use the stock set up as much as possible, but have read that new subs in the real panels are a nice add, for a bit more bass.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thank you all!
I would think it wouldn't be as loud, but would be probably listenable. I haven't dug into the OEM system much but couldn't you just run either the line outs or speaker outs to the OEM amp and keep using it? I don't know if the OEM has line level or speaker level inputs, but I'm sure that's pretty straightforward to figure out. Someone might even make a wiring harness - I'm sure they would if this was a honda civic, but maybe not enough interest for ours.
I’d hoped for that too, but unfortunately the amp, head unit and nav systems all talk to each other and when you cut one out, the other two are inoperable.
This is why there’s an extra step of bypassing the amp when replacing the head unit. You’re basically running new wires from the new head to the speaker connections coming out of the amp in order to keep using those speaker wires.
I’d hoped for that too, but unfortunately the amp, head unit and nav systems all talk to each other and when you cut one out, the other two are inoperable.
Plus as an added bonus, the system is coded specifically for Jaguar, so you can't even swap the head unit or CD player etc for an Alpine branded unit from the same era as it still won't talk to the rest of the system.
Ouch! Good to know it's even harder than I thought - looks like I'll be sticking with the bluetooth/CDchanger adapter and phone forever. It does work well, but I'd definitely prefer an integrated carplay UI for sure.
Note that, in the 'vert, the rear subs are just that - 2 ohm subs. The factory amp only send bass signals to them. The amp sends the mid/high stuff to rear speakers that do not exist. If you're replacing the speakers and the amp, this won't matter, but if you choose to retain the subs, they're 2 ohm 1-way paper cone cheapie speakers.
The new Pioneer head unit is working and it sounds great!
Ran a new set of wires (included in the kit above) from the head unit to the trunk to bypass the amp. I wasn’t expecting much, but those factory speakers have a nice little thump to them. For now, I’m just going to replace the head unit. Can always update the speakers later.
Now I need to mount the screen using the@MonkeyBrain 3D printed piece he designed.
More pics to come after I have everything cleaned up. Thought I was in over my head at this point.
Oh, and I’d highly recommend Crutchfield for audio needs. Any purchase comes with a complete install guide which shows you how to dismantle everything screw by screw. And, they’ve got live tech support where an actual human will talk you through your questions. You can text them pics as you see them. Incredible service.
Here are the instructions to remove the console, take apart the climate modules, remove the rear seat, rear panels and door cards in order to access speakers.
I know there are various videos out there which describe these same processes, but I felt this was very easy to follow at your own page. It was like putting a LEGO set together.
So, is your final look that of a double din or larger radio, but still within the original stack? Can you show what you think your final view will look like?
Not bad man, good job! I have a 97 xk8 coupe that had the basic stereo system and all four speakers were junk, head unit was stock(tape player with cd changer function) and an aftermarket alpine 6 disc charger in the trunk. I put 6.5” 2 way alpines in the rear and 6.5 component set of alpines in the front doors and made custom mounts and ran wiring to the tweeters in the stock dash positions, I didn’t put anything in the door tweeter places. I then ran wiring and rca cables
to The trunk for a custom box and 10” subwoofer with an mtx amp. I also put the amp volume controller mounted inside the glovebox in the dash. I also was able to plug in a 5.0 Bluetooth receiver into my head unit. Sound is ten fold better than when I got it. The 6.5” speakers all require a little bit of ingenuity but can be done. The sky and your budget are the limit to stereo systems
New Head Unit = New Speakers?
