Hey all. I have a 1997 jaguar xk8 and need some fast help.

I am in ny and my problem is with my drivers window (snow is coming)

For a while I would randomly have an issue where my windo would not go up or down at all. However this would only randomly happen and last a short period of time.

I have had the window up down convertible issue before as I know it is not that. It was loosing the programming pretty often and I needs a new batttey so I replaced the battery about a week ago.

3 days ago my window again stopped working and has not worked since. When I hit the drivers windo button all I hear is clicking. Almost a locking unlocking type sound. I have taken the door panel off and the sound seems to be coming for a few different areas in the door. By the Switch. By the door lock. And by the speaker so I can. Not isolate it. I have noticed that I can pull the window up with my hands when I hit the up button and if I hit the down button it sometime VERY SLOWLY will go down. During any of this it still makes that same clock sound. And I believe the door handle inside also goes always work properly in sink with locking/unlocking

I am wondering how I can pin point the issue without playing guessing games with every part.

 

I am in need of a way to test components or pin point the problem as it is going to snow here this week and the car is outside.

 

It could be a micro switch in the door latch mechanism. Spray the door latch mechanism with WD40 or Silicone and open and close the door a few times and see if that helps. The window going up slowly with a little help sounds like an issue with the motor or linkage but not sure. Give the spraying of the latch a try first and see what takes place.

 

The window doesn't go up at all. I am pulling the window up myself(very hard) if I press up up button it just make me able to pull it up manually. Im not assisting it.

The thing that seems the strangest is the click. On other cars if your window motors dead it just won't work. However I know on this xk8 there are a ton of thinks between the window switch and the window to go wrong.

 

The other kicker is that when it was only sometimes not working. When it did work it's went up and down full speed. No sign of a worn or weak motor. It's either worked or didn't.

 

UPDATE: I also noticed the driver side door does not auto lock correctly when out into reverse and it makes the same noise when I manually lock or unlock the door.

 

You have several electrical components that make the window operate. You have your window switches, drivers door control module and then the motor and movement sensor all control the window operation. You could have a grounding issue along with a switch or component issue that would take time to check out. Not saying the door latch is the issue but the lack of lubrication has been an issue in the past for several people in the past.

Link to the electrical for your car. Go to Fig 15.1 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1997.pdf

 

I tried the silicon spray. No luck. Greatly appreciate the help. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to take it apart. What do u suggest I start with as far as diagnostics as well as a first piece to replace.

 

Check you grounding.

 

1) lubricate. Grease the horizontal channel at bottom of window assembly.

Low chance of solution but can't hurt.

2 ) verify motor works no load.
Disconnect motor arms from window. Two arms front one back. Window needs to be at position where u have access to each ofthe white plastic
Sliders that are in the channel.

Motor arms connect as follows: male protrusion goes straight into plastic . When inserting u will see it needs quite a bit of pressure to seat. It does seat with a bang that will scare the crap out of you, more on that later.

Once arm snapped in place, it is secured with the horseshoe shipped aluminium fastener.

I am on phone hard to type or edit. That was background about how connector works.

To remove arms: use extra long long nose pliers to slide aluminum fastener off. Yes you can pry with screwdriver BUT don't lose it. It can, and will try to fly off. figure a way to secure it (trust me it is worth taking the time here). Once it Flys into the door it is very hard to find.

Remove both AL fasteners. Now disconnect arm from plastic piece.

I slid am huge flat blade screwdriver between arm end and plastic. Pry to release.

Look at white plastic Sliders, any defect or deteriation ?

Once both sides are released window is free. Move it up to closed position.

How do you hold it there? Use a pipe clamp. The kind where it tightens by squeezing a pistol grip and has rubber pads for window contact area. Oh yeah a Stanley pipe clamp.

Now reconnect battery.

Observe if motor works.

There is a modular connector to the motor. Fyi

If motor works, does window bind in travel ?

Out of sequence but a misaligned (cockeyed) window can bind. You would have mentioned this if it were so.

Remember that channel you greased? Debris can restrict Sliders motion jamiming things up.

FYI If you have to replace the motor aka window regulator, you're 75%of the way there now with thewindow disconnected,

How to reattach window:

Move window down for access to channel 'so sliders. Press arm into plastic slider. Position a small Stanley pipe clamp. Put one jaw back behind aluminium window cannel, other jaw placed on the back of the window arm. Tighten with pistol grip. When it seats it will be loud, this is normal, just don't have a heart attack, I almost did the 1st time. Then secure aluminum pins.

My friend lots of info, sorry about sequence I'm on a cell phone but I've been there.

This should be at top:

DON'T PUT HAND OR FINGERS INSIDE DOOR WITH BATTERY CONNECTED.

This intermittent behavior sure sounds like bad connection somewhere.

Ask if anything is confusing. John

 

In a nutshell :

1 is battery properly connected and charged.

2 does key and other switches produce same results (door key, passenger door, driver door ?

3 window alllignment. Is it true, not Cockeysville ?

4 window channel lubed and free of debris

5 motor: no load test

6 window travel ok without motor connected ?

7 Look and make sure white plastic Sliders are not falling apart or defective.


John

 

Thanks for all the help and detail. I will tear into it tomorrow.

On on a side note. If I go through all of this to test the motor with no load I'm pretty confident I still won't get any movement as it doesn't seem like the motor is even trying to move and getting stuck. If it is another issue I feel that it still won't give proper power to the motor.

Is is there a way to bypass the door system and give the motor power to see if it itself is working. If it's a faulty switch or micro switch ground or all that other junk I won't get any movement to motor and may think it's a bad motor. The passenger side window and door lock and all that stuff works just find.

FYI this is an American LHD

I have a very obvious CLICKING coming from the door lock area. Not sure if it just sounds more potent because I have the panel off or that's not normal

 

Hi.

You have a round connector at the door jamb, between the two hinges. Open it (twist), and spray with some electrical cleaner (not WD40). Cheap and easy. Poor contact here has been reported.

 

This is where power connects to window motor

You said door card is off. This is what window regulator looks like.

Pull connector wire off motor attach meter, verify switch sends power.

Btw, your comment about complexity: it was harder to take the door card off than to disconnect window regulator. Lots of details above meant to help, I understand how it looks complicated.

John



Use this for dead reckoning see connections upper left

 

Oyster hit the nail on the head. I was fiddling with that Harness and it was on and off working. I unplugged it. Cleaned it. And made sure it sat tight.

PROBLEM GONE ! As well as the door locking and window drop

AMAZING HELP HERE ON THIS FORUM!!

 

Nice job Oyster!! I'll remember this for 1st step diagnostics next time. John