Even the Jaguar dealership parts departments cannot agree on the correct sensor for my application!

Jaguar Greensboro says LNE1684BB for $325....

Jaguar Cary says C2S51801 for $337 (which equates to the Denso 2349029 that I ordered from amazon.com yesterday for $93). We now have proof from Terry (kstevusa) that this indeed is the correct one....


Yet more evidence that most of the dealerships truly are no longer familiar with working on our era of vehicles. Nor do they seem to want to do so. For the various repairs that you choose not to DIY, it pays to have a strong relationship with a well-respected and knowledgeable indie shop....

 

Funny, I would have guessed Greensboro was better than Cary. LNE1684BB is mine for the 2001-2002 4.0L, just recently replaced with a Bosch part. I wonder if these two (or three) parts are the same with the same connector, but with different length cables?

 

Greensboro is far better than Cary from a service standpoint. As long as Nhao (their Chinese master tech) and Georgiy (their Russian master tech) remain employed there, I will make that drive if necessary....

I believe the Greensboro parts guy I spoke with this morning was probably flipping burgers for a living up until a couple of months ago....

 

Sorry, I'm rather late to this. I think you're right that some of the sensors are the same but the wire lengths differ. (I fitted a longer wired one to my STR and all was good, just had to tie the wire out of the way.)

I see this guide jaghelp.com: XK and XK8 Oxygen sensor codes and guide

I also have a cross-ref I'll attach in case it's of use.

 

Graham, is this something we should have in the Tech section above, great information.
Thanks.

 

^^ What he said....

 

Update:

My new Denso oxygen sensor was due to arrive on Sunday. It actually showed up on my front porch yesterday afternoon. Kudos to Amazon....

Its wiring harness is just shy of 16 inches long....

My small-handed next-door neighbor will perform the electrical connector unplug-and-plug-in trick behind and below the throttle body. He has an old Mazda Miata which is his track car so he is accustomed to working in very tight spaces. We are planning to get together on Sunday for the job, so stay tuned and Merry Christmas / Happy Kringle to all....

 

My small-handed neighbor Frank and I accomplished the new Denso 2349029 oxygen sensor installation this afternoon, but it was far from easy....

After removing the air intake tube, we tried various long flat-head screwdrivers to pop the correct grey electrical connector assembly up and out of its metal bracket, but we had difficulty with that due to the various hoses, wires, etc. that are still in the way and do not allow for the necessary tool leverage. My hands were far too large to get down into that area, but Frank could get a couple of his fingers and thumb onto the connector assembly. He wiggled it and tried to pull it straight up but could not get the necessary leverage. I managed to work a small pair of needlenose pliers onto the top of the connector assembly and carefully pulled it straight up perhaps a quarter-inch. I then sprayed several shots of silicone spray onto the connector assembly to help lubricate the metal tab that holds the assembly onto the bracket. More work with the pliers pulled the connector assembly slightly further up, just enough for Frank to get two fingers down under the connector assembly. Pushing straight up with those two fingers finally popped the connector assembly up off the bracket....

At that point I unscrewed the failed oxygen sensor from its manifold, we tied a shoelace onto the top of its wiring harness just under its electrical connector, then worked the failed oxygen sensor and harness down and out of the engine bay, leaving the shoelace in place to help us thread the new oxygen sensor's wiring harness through its proper route back up to the bracket that holds the connector assembly. After routing the new harness up into place by pulling on the shoelace while Frank guided its electrical connector through the maze of hoses and wires back there , I applied anti-seize to the new oxygen sensor's threads and screwed it into its manifold by hand. We then plugged the new male connector into the existing female connector until we heard the click indicating the assembly was back together properly, then I managed to slide the assembly back down onto its bracket....

We then reinstalled the air intake tube, checked all connections, I cleared the existing P1646 code with my scanner, and then I started the engine. No Check Engine icon on the dashboard and only the expected P1000 OBDII code. We let the engine idle for 4 or 5 minutes, shut it off, waited 30 seconds, and restarted it. Again, no Check Engine icon and only the P1000 code. I then took the car on a 15-mile test drive which to my surprise cleared 5 of the readiness monitors. The only monitors needing to be cleared now are the Oxygen Sensor, EGR System, and Comprehensive Components monitors. We shall see how much driving, coasting, and idling I will have to do in order to clear these 3 remaining monitors. Last time it took me more than 200 miles before I finally cleared all the monitors and saw the much-desired P1111 code....

Thanks to all who contributed their valuable assistance and guidance in this thread. Small hands are indeed the key in successfully accomplishing this repair. I doubt if I could have done it alone with my gorilla-sized hands....

 

Give Frank my best regards and thanks. Didn't have to come to Raleigh, YEAH!!!
Really, job well done guys.

 

Thanks Wayne. Glad we got it done and Frank deserves much of the credit, especially during the disconnect process. His small fingers pushing straight up on the bottom of the connector assembly finally popped it loose from the bracket....

 

Update:

Hard to believe, but I managed to clear all the readiness monitors and obtain that gorgeous P1111 OBDII code this afternoon with less than 30 miles of driving. Perhaps I should go play the lottery today....

 

I don't think it will matter adding more, but I think the Denso sensors have an anti-seize coating already.

The previous difficulty getting P1111 may be a sign that a sensor was going out of spec but still just about good enough - I'm guessing somewhat here...

 

The new Denso sensor came with a small packet of Denso-labeled anti-seize, and the instructions said to use it so I did....

I do not believe my factory bank 1 upstream sensor was failing. I broke the internal wiring in the harness somewhere when I unscrewed the sensor to allow for more room while doing the octopus hose Norma connector removal / repair nearly two weeks ago. I should have disconnected the wiring harness connector from its bracket on the firewall before unscrewing the sensor. These factory sensors have been baking in the engine bay heat for more than 15.5 years and their wiring harnesses have become very fragile as a result. Live and learn....