Oddball question. any exemption from Smog Certs in California?
If something is blocking a monitor it won't matter how far you drive.
Similarly, if the conditions for a monitor to run don't occur then again it won't matter how far you drive.
(These are also true for other cars, not just Jaguars.)
Similarly, if the conditions for a monitor to run don't occur then again it won't matter how far you drive.
(These are also true for other cars, not just Jaguars.)
I used to have great difficulty getting my readiness codes set. Last fall I found and used this source of guidance: https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle
I condensed it for myself into the following recipe which I referenced while on the road.
Notes: 3000 rpm in 4th gear is well over the speed limit, but I'm glad I chanced it since I achieved readiness quickly. I included the fuse pull because my ASC dash switch is flaky.MUST TURN OFF ASC
If dash button isn't working, pull fuse for ABS = 5A fuse, #4, driver side engine bay over wheel well
READINESS DRIVE CYCLE
Start engine and
1. Bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes.
3. Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at a steady speed.
4. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
READINESS EV
5. Start engine and idle 4 minute.
6. Drive stop & go for 5 minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations.
7. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.
I condensed it for myself into the following recipe which I referenced while on the road.
Notes: 3000 rpm in 4th gear is well over the speed limit, but I'm glad I chanced it since I achieved readiness quickly. I included the fuse pull because my ASC dash switch is flaky.MUST TURN OFF ASC
If dash button isn't working, pull fuse for ABS = 5A fuse, #4, driver side engine bay over wheel well
READINESS DRIVE CYCLE
Start engine and
1. Bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes.
3. Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at a steady speed.
4. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
READINESS EV
5. Start engine and idle 4 minute.
6. Drive stop & go for 5 minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations.
7. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.
I used to have great difficulty getting my readiness codes set. Last fall I found and used this source of guidance: https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle
I condensed it for myself into the following recipe which I referenced while on the road.
Notes: 3000 rpm in 4th gear is well over the speed limit, but I'm glad I chanced it since I achieved readiness quickly. I included the fuse pull because my ASC dash switch is flaky.MUST TURN OFF ASC
If dash button isn't working, pull fuse for ABS = 5A fuse, #4, driver side engine bay over wheel well
READINESS DRIVE CYCLE
Start engine and
1. Bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes.
3. Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at a steady speed.
4. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
READINESS EV
5. Start engine and idle 4 minute.
6. Drive stop & go for 5 minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations.
7. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.
I condensed it for myself into the following recipe which I referenced while on the road.
Notes: 3000 rpm in 4th gear is well over the speed limit, but I'm glad I chanced it since I achieved readiness quickly. I included the fuse pull because my ASC dash switch is flaky.MUST TURN OFF ASC
If dash button isn't working, pull fuse for ABS = 5A fuse, #4, driver side engine bay over wheel well
READINESS DRIVE CYCLE
Start engine and
1. Bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive the vehicle steadily between 48 – 97 km/h (30 – 60 mph) for 10 minutes.
3. Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 4th gear at a steady speed.
4. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.
READINESS EV
5. Start engine and idle 4 minute.
6. Drive stop & go for 5 minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations.
7. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.
Do you think if I ran 3000RPM in 2nd "gear' that would work? or do I need to be in "4th"
Thanks
I must be very tired. ASC is my Traction Control button, right? And can I be in "3rd" rather than 4th? And can I use Crusie Control during the process?
Correct, Automatic Stability Control (ASC) was the original name (my 1997), changed to Traction Control (TRAC) later (my 2001). Speed and gear monitoring are part of the test, but no harm seeing if 3rd gear works. OBD-Codes got their information from a Jaguar publication without identifying applicable models or years. I only maintained "steady speed" at 3000rpm in 4th for 5-10 seconds (on a highway transition road, hoping it was off the radar) followed immediately by 30 seconds of foot-off coasting on a long downhill stretch where my speed dropped, but not to the point of annoying other drivers. It's a night activity for me too, with traffic at all hours, but at least no congestion at night. When you drive it steadily for 10 minutes between 30-60 mph, I'm told that going outside the range requires starting over, though I don't know if that means start over from engine off, or keep driving another 10 minutes within range.
I wish you, good luck, friend. By some miracle, I got mine to pass.
Cyber glad to hear about the pass. I just tried. Tech pulled P1000 so I've got to do the duty cycle thing to reset monitors. Having fun putting miles on my 1st Jag. I've still got a couple of weeks.
Couldn't get P codes when I bought the car. Huge problem and meant had to go to a garage. ABS module rebuild (CAN connect), disconnect/reconnect ECU to test and hard reset solved the no codes problem. I don't know if replacing defective (no brand) coils was a factor. Now I can pull codes and look for P1111.
Couldn't get P codes when I bought the car. Huge problem and meant had to go to a garage. ABS module rebuild (CAN connect), disconnect/reconnect ECU to test and hard reset solved the no codes problem. I don't know if replacing defective (no brand) coils was a factor. Now I can pull codes and look for P1111.
My car has passed smog in So. California two times with the P1000 code at two different shops. the P1000 code has been there for thousands of miles. Believe it is not getting a reading from "CAT"
You were cheated! They should (by law) not be looking at pending codes and so should not even see P1000 (or P1111).
They should instead be checking that all the individual OBD monitors required for that smog region are set.
I despair at how bad some smog stations are!
They should instead be checking that all the individual OBD monitors required for that smog region are set.
I despair at how bad some smog stations are!
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