Hi guys, have any of you changed your oil using an oil extractor vacuum pump through he dipstick hole? I have one of these pumps but thought I would see what the general consensus of opinion was regarding their use. I am going to use a flushing additive to the oil ( STP engine flush ) which is required when adding the Ametech Restore additive to the new oil.
Its just too cold at the minute outside doing any work under the vehicle.

Thanks for any tip or advice.

Cheers,

Arty

 

I think you will find some info in the XF and maybe XK sections.

IMHO if you add the flushing agent it would be better to drain from the sump plug to try and get anything flushed into the bottom of the sump.

 

Those with marine engine usually have no option other than to use this technique but for a complete drain on your XK8, the usual method of removing the drain plug is quicker.

Graham

 

I use my Mitivavc to remove the oil from my cars, then remove the plug to make sure I have it all out. The XK8 has very little remaining after the pump.

 

There's the usual debate on this about that small amount of residual oil....I'm on the side of who cares? but just because I have a boat and a pump and 3 cars to change and I don't like draining from under the car when I can stand up instead. The BMW is a total stand-up job (Boy, I wish all cars had their filter setup). Just make sure your oil is hot; it goes much quicker.

 

For my first oil change I used one and I pulled the plug afterwards and there was more oil left than I would have expected but not enough to be a concern. It may have been do to the way my tube curved in the pan. Although, If I was using an engine flush I would not want to leave that left over oil in there. I second the suggestion to heat the oil up first if extracting, It is very difficult when the oil is cold. Also, don't leave synthetic fluid in your mityvac for an extended period, it degrades the seals and is a real pain to take apart and re-seal. I learned that the hard way.

 

Thanks for all the replies, certainly food for thought, if the weather improves over the weekend as the reports suggest I will try and do it the conventional way.
Thanks again,
Arty.

 

I'm fascinated to know how those who pump the oil out through the dipstick tube to avoid getting under the car then change the oil filter from above .............?

Graham

 

I usually do it so that i don't need to lift the car to get a large container under the pan and it's a bit cleaner than draining, but not much faster. If I did not already own the extractor for other purposes I would not buy one just to do oil, because like you said, you usually need to get under for the filter.

 

I originally bought mine for my Z3, which had the filter on top. Like waterloo, I avoid using a large drain pan that way. Too many times I ended up spilling some hot oil.
While on the subject, I have always drained the oil after running the engine up to temp. In addition to being easier remove it keeps fine particle suspended.

 

I think the best plan of action may be to run the motor up to temp as per the instructions on the STP bottle leave it for 10 minutes and then drain it via the pump which has a 7ltr capacity. The STP will have done its work and then drain the rest from the sump plug hole, that way there will not be a huge heavy container to pull out from under the car. I can than easily manage a 5ltr container and make sure the old oil is fully removed.
Before I do this I will have to check to see if the fans are working correctly as I do not want to risk damaging the motor after just putting the new tensioners in.
P.s the OLD oil has been in the car for about 4 years but it has covered less than 800 miles in that time, I am concerned that the paper in the filter may had degraded and contaminated the oil, however there is no obvious sign of this. New Jaguar filter with non return value ready to fit.


Arty

 

Just found a thread with my question re the fans answered by WhiteXKR:


" See if you can get a 100 ohm resistor with wire leads (any wattage). Unplug the coolant temperature sensor (gray two pin connector, front and center on the top of the engine). With the ignition fully on, and engine off, 'plug' the resistor into the contacts on the harness side of the connector. If the fans start, all is well with the fan circuit and controls.

If you have an OBDII reader, also read the coolant temperature cold and warm and see if cold is ambient and warm is about 85-100C. This will check the temperature sensor. "


Thanks WhiteXKR, another job well done.


Cheers,


Arty


It pays to do a bit of research to prevent having to bother peeps with repeat questions. LOL's I only ask when I am beat for a solution or its controversial......

 

A solid piece of advice. Thanks for reminding everyone.

 

Tried to get a bit further on today but its just to cold again!
Took some pics of what is to be installed.
Fuel filter, oil filter, drive belt, radiator flush, and engine flush.
Ametech Restore and Red antifreeze ( conc ) with three litres of distilled water to dilute with.
Do I use STP or the Prepup to flush the engine?
Decision's decision's, I've had the Prepup for a few years so it may well be given an outing.
Anyone remember this stuff from the infomercials a few years ago? I bought the set but did not use the engine cleaner, must be over 10 years old now, HA HA. a use for it at last.


Arty

 

Dag nabitt another horrible day, foggy and wet, nothing to be done today!!!