So, I'm going to do my own oil and filter change since I realized it was relatively easy on this car. I had it jacked up today to verify the bushings on the front passenger wheel. All seemed ok. I noticed the oil filter was just sitting there, calling at me to unscrew it. "Gian, over here. Change me, Chaaangee me. I won't bite." I have never seen an oil filter that is so accessible. I had previously given up on changing the oil and filter myself since I last did my mum's Outlander.

So, other than the fact that I have to jack up, down, up down and up to remove every last drop I think it's fairly straight forward. I just want to know what's the best oil filter to buy for this car and the part number?

The car currently has a Purolator oil filter, but I couldn't read the part number. Would you guys recommend something else? What recommended oil brand and viscosity should I get? Should I switch to synthetic? High mileage? My car has got about 70,800 miles.

 

I recently changed earl on my 01 XK8. Bought a factory filter from the Jag dealer for about 16 American.

Put in Valvoline 5w30 in the Burgundy bottle (for high mile cars). It's a synthetic BLEND (like Canadian whiskey).

I wasn't opposed to full synthetic, but have heard wive's tales about it being so slippery it causes leaks where none had been with Dino oil...

 

Its so easy to get at you really don't even need to raise up the car. I uusally just drive on some 2x12 boards to give me an extra inch of room. There aren't a lot of good options imo for "premium" aftermarket filters. I usually just use frams or purolator classics but I only put about 5-7k on a year on our cars and they get their fluid changed 2x a year with synthetic fluid, if I was trying to put the 10k on the oil like the x type claims as an interval I'd definately use the factory filter or find a premium option like a mobil 1 or k and n that are designed for longer use. I usually use valvoline syn power unless someone has a good deal on the other brands. Even run syth. in my TVR which weeped a bit for the first year after changing but has since stopped. Most of the logic to me is that our commutes are under 3 miles each way so we do a lot of driving w/o reaching the deposit burn off temps.

 

Mine is a daily driver because it's my only car. Even so, I average about 6k a year. My longest commutes are when I go visit my parents. Those two are about 1.5 hour long drives. So, I guess any filter that fits will do.

I think I'm going to get a Purolator PureOne PL15317 oil filter with 8 quarts of 5w30 synthetic oil. Does the car really need high mileage oil though? It's only done 70,800 miles.

 

I don't think you'll get more than 6 and change quarts into it unless you have an oil cooler or an R. High milege isn't needed unless you have symptoms of high mileage like lower compression oil burning, etc IMHO.

 

The most important detail about oil filters is that they MUST have a check valve to prevent the oil draining back through the filter after shutdown.
I prefer Mann over Purolater Fram or STP. Jaguar filters are probably great, but I am beginning to distrust OEM because of substitutions.
You don't have to use high mileage oil, but I figure it probably won't hurt.

 

Oh, ok. 6 quarts.

Mann? I've never heard of that brand before, is it good?

I'm thinking I'll just use the 5w30 synthetic.

 

6 quarts? Where'd you get that number? Do you have an oil cooler? I believe the early cars (pre '03) originally took "7 point something". At some point, I think all of them were supposed to take 8.2 quarts. But I'm only familiar with oil cooler equipped engines.

About five years ago I read an oil filter comparison. The NAPA products were made by WIX, which was highly regarded. So, ever since then I've used the NAPA Gold filters on all my cars. I must add though, that I do not specifically know whether they have a back-flow check valve. However, if they are still as good as that review implied, it would be hard to believe that they wouldn't.

 

There are no Napa's where I live.

Also, I'm just not sure how much oil I have to put in it. I think I'll just keep adding oil until it reads full.

 

I can say here at the dealership Wix has replaced Fram (AKA the orange can of death) as the most hated filter. Wix used to be good, but now they are the last filter I'd ever put in my car (or my even my lawn mower). We have continual problems with diesels due to NAPA filters (made by Wix). It's so bad Ford even has a video handout for us to give to customers:


My favorite example is the local NAPA chains diesel that we fixed a no start problem by changing the NAPA filter to a Motorcraft (and no other changes) as these engines won't start without oil pressure (used to power the injectors) and the NAPA filter leaked down so bad it couldn't build pressure.

Granted these issues don't apply to our cars as the cartridge filters are different, but shows a lack of quality that would keep me from using their filters.

Here's a couple special service messages from our Tech hotline:

21049 1997-2010 MULTIPLE VEHICLE - 4.6L/5.4L - ENGINE TICKING AND/OR RATTLE NOISE
MULTIPLE VEHICLE LINES WITH 4.6L OR 5.4L ENGINE MAY EXPERIENCE AN ENGINE TICKING OR RATTLE NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE A STUCK TAPPET (HLA). THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE DETERIORATION OF AN AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER. VEHICLES WITH THIS CONDITION HAVE LOW OIL PRESSURE AT ONE CYLINDER HEAD ONLY, WHILE MAIN PRESSURES ARE NORMAL. DISLODGED MATERIAL FROM THE AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER BLOCKS THE CAM CAP OIL PASSAGE, EITHER AT CYLINDER #4 (RIGHT BANK REAR) OR CYLINDER #5 (LEFT BANK FRONT). FOR VCT EQUIPPED ENGINES, INSPECT THE VCT VALVE BODY AND THE OIL PASSAGES UNDER THE FIRST CAM CAP. DAMAGE TO ENGINES CAUSED BY AFTERMARKET OIL FILTERS ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 10/22/2009

18921 2006 MARK LT/2004-2006 F-150/2005-2006 EXPEDITION/NAVIGATOR AND F-250/F-350 5.4L 3V - COLD START ENGINE RATTLE
SOME 2006 MARK LT, 2004-2006 F150 AND 2005-2006 EXPEDITION/NAVIGATOR/F-250/F-350VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 5.4 3V ENGINE MAY EXHIBIT A RATTLE NOISE UPON COLD STARTUP THAT LASTS FOR ONLY A FEW SECONDS (5-10 SECONDS). IT IS POSSIBLE THAT AFTERMARKET OIL FILTERS, CLOGGED OIL FILTERS OR INCORRECT OIL MAY BE CAUSING THIS CONCERN. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE HAS THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL AND THE PROPER MOTORCRAFT OIL(SAE 5W20)AND OIL FILTER(FL820-S)ARE BEING USED BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY REPAIRS.


We've only seen one of the first one (7,000 mile Police car), and it was the anti drainback valve had come out (and is the perfect size to plug the oil galley to one head and starve that cam for oil. I'll give you one guess what brand of filter was on the car.

I run Motorcraft filters on mine, since Ford used this engine design, I'm comfortable the filter is correct, and not just a close enough filter like the aftermarket (and Motorcraft for non-Ford applications). I haven't cut one of these filters apart, but I have the more common one, and I believe its the same filter as a Purolator Pure One with a different shell.

 

I use full synthetic 5w-30 and a Bosch oil filter with the check valve. I buy them in bulk from rockauto. A non-supercharged XK8 Holds 6.9 quarts dry with filter. Check it at 6 quarts there will be some left over oil in the engine.

 

Ok, I guess I've got all the info I need. xD

 

Good plan.

Knowing the alleged capacity is only useful for ensuring that you have enough oil on hand.

preferred filter brands: Jaguar, Mann, Mahle.

 

Today's business plan:

1. make 'em cheap, stack 'em high

2. make 'em cheaper, stack 'em higher

 

I use Mann oil filters, which I order along with my 5W-30 synthetic from Amsoil. For my '03 XK8 4.2L, the Mann part number is W7197. I leave my oil in for 2 years or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first, but spin on a new filter at least every 5,000 miles (which is a bit messy when not changing the oil, due to the position of the filter port - I jack the car in such a way that it is tipped toward the driver side, to minimize the spillage)

 

Purolator makes Motorcraft filters BTW

 

I have always used OEM filters in my cars, be they porsches, volvos or jaguar.