Here ia a photo of the type 2 cam tensioners in my 62000 mile 2000 XKR.


They seem almost as new.

 

What about the 1/2" crack on the side facing the primary chain sprocket?

My 'slippers' on an '02 were fine but both bodies had cracks in them.

 

If you got that far, you might as well change them. Then take a good look at them and see if they're okay. Might find some stress cracks. Even if you don't, it's not alot of money for the peace of mind. Mine were pretty gone at 65,000.

 

Mine both had the stress crack in the bodies, otherwise the shoes looked OK like yours at similar mileage. Its hard to see the cracks while they are installed.

Its not worth the gamble for what they cost.

 

Nobody here is steering you wrong, get them replaced, a ruined engine just isn't worth the price to be paid if you don't. besides just the piece of mind not having to worry about it is worth the price.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone

 

That is a very nice clean engine.
Tempting to think that that helped with tensioner longevity.
But I would still change them.
What oil do you use? What is the change frequency?

Thanks,

Dan

 

I use Mobil One and change at 5000 miles. Most of the miles on the motor are short trips in the city. I had already instructed the mechanic to change the tensioners. I also had the trans serviced and the fluid was a brick red not burnt at all.

 

This will be interesting. I bet you will find them to have no cracks (which is not to say they shouldn't have been changed out). That really is a remarkably clean engine with 60k on the clock. My engine looked not quite so clean and the tensioners were like new at ~ 55k.

I can't prove this, but believe there is a correlation between heat and the tensioners going south.

 

There is also a strong correlation between heat and engine cleanliness (evidenced under the cam covers), far more than any type of oil or change intervals. This is especially true with AJ26s and the chronic problems it had with water pumps, thermostats, etc. I've plenty examples of these engines with severe coking and crystalized oil deposits built up in and around the valve train, yet owners were meticulous with oil and filter changes.

On my Jaguars and BMW I change oil only once every 12K miles with one or two interim filter changes. Attachd is a pic of the engine in my XK8. I have a pic of an 01 XKr with same mielage as mine (I was unable to download it for some reason). The valve train is in terrible shape, and the owner changed oil and filter over twice as often as I did, but he had engine overheat problems on several occasions.

 

Thanks, Steve. I never really understood the nature of those deposits that are seen in an engine that has lived life on the hot side. I had sort of dimly perceived that they were heat related, but that was about it.

Best,

 

 

Glad you made the right call !!

 

Guys,
I'll be attempting this pretty soon. Haven't done any car work before. How much time should I set aside? Any words of wisdom? I checked number of threads on this board and think I could handle it, still little nervous.

 

-Make sure you use torque wrenches of the correct size (ie; can read around 10 NM accurately (as well as 100-150 NM acurately if you use the factory method of removing the cam sprocket)).
-If you use the factory method and remove your cam sprocket you MUST use the cam shaft lock tool to maintain timing alignment
-You will also need a universal joint for your socket set.
-Replace your valve cover/spark plug gasket set while you are in there. If you have a '97 those seals may be 13 years old.
-Clean off your valve covers before removing them, so as not to have a lot of dirt fall in the engine.
-Most importantly, if you are not completely sure about something ask for help here !

 

I used the removal of camshaft method with chain secured with zip ties.

If you can take off the cam cover you can do it.

Dan

 

that's the plan, there is a lot of info in this post:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=37415
including sources for parts, etc.

 

A little nervousness is good, I think. Tends to keep our minds focused, right?

Since this work is new to you, I'm going to stress one really important bit that might not be obvious. When loosening or tightening the camshafts, it's vital to go slow ... taking a little load at a time off of each bearing cap. The cams are very hard metal which is a good thing but this also makes them brittle. It's possible to snap a cam in half if you don't go a little at a time.

This would probably ruin your whole day.

Good luck; keep us posted,

 

Thank you, great advice. I have a friend who has done time belt replacement before. I'll try to lure him in with beer and cigars so that he could stand there and tell me what I am doing wrong without getting his hands dirty.

 

Nothing wrong having a good advisor with his beer goggles on. Wish I could do it...but it'd have to be the right kinda beer....like a good Belgian Wheat...or maybe a Negra Modelo...or....maybe...

 

19, Just for fun see if you can flip off the plastic shoe that sits on the metal on the spring-loaded side. Mine had micro cracks there and one of the shoes came right off when I lifted it. Talk about a time bomb.
Mike