Hi All, After admiring the XK8 for better half of 2 decades i feel its time to pull the trigger. I have been following this form as a reader for some time now, and most of the early model issues have been worked out by the 2004 model year per my understanding from reading the threads. Currently my daily is a Lexus GX460, weekend car is Mercedes W211 E63 AMG.

A XK8 came up for sale near my location (United States) , its a 2004 XK8 Convertible, 2 Owner car, 127K miles. The owner claims to have the car serviced at a reputed garage and have all the service records.

Question 1: Are the 127K miles considered high or in end zone for engine and transmission for 04 XK8?
Question 2: I will be using this only for Summers / weekend drives and not my daily. So if the car sits for winters with the battery tender, will that have any adverse effects?

Any help from seasoned XK8 owners will be greatly appreciated.

 

I would try to drive the car more during the winter.

And keep the battery tender on the car whenever not driven overnight or longer both summer and winter.

as far as the year of manufacture goes, yes the 2003’s + have fewer issues from the factory . But many / most of the pre 2003 models have already had those issues fixed by now. And are thereby just as reliable as the 2003’s + years. And are available at a savings vs the ‘03’s.

Every model year has pluses and minuses. You just have to weigh which chances are acceptable or not acceptable.

2 examples:

least reliable transmission: pre ‘03 XK-8’s

most reliable transmission: pre ‘03 XKR’s

most expensive fuel pump replacement : ‘03 and up XK8 & XKR’s


Z

 

Drive more in winter? i am in the NorthEastern United States, i am trying to save the car from salt, given the car is already 18 years old and spend most of her life in NE USA, the damage is probably already done? also how is driving in winter with soft top on? sound vs interior temp wise?

 

No issues with winter driving concerning heat and sound. This is the quietest conferable I have ever ridden in with the top up. I agree with keeping out of the salt and you have more of a problem and time period for that than I do. I do drive it in the cold with clean roads. It's a matter of principle and respect for the car to me.

Miles? Wait til you hear how many some have on their cars and still going strong. It all depends on the life it has lived and upkeep. TM

 

I’ve lived in the NE, NW, SW, and SoCal. Not to mention locales outside the USA. As mentioned, there are many opportunities in wintertime to drive in all parts of the country when the road are dry and salt - chemical free. So yes, I’d consider driving the car more as a strategy to keep it in good condition. These cars do not do well when stored for months at a time, especially the fuel systems.

Z

 

These cars remain happier and healthier when they are driven on a regular basis. We have owned my wife's 2006 XK8 Victory Edition convertible since early February 2012 when we purchased it at 36,000 miles. It now has 125,200 miles and it was her daily driver from then until late October 2018 when she decided to go back to a Lexus SUV. Her XK8 has been just a toy since then, doing only 1,500 to 1,800 miles per year. I make sure I take it out for exercise twice per week in good weather for at least 25 miles at a stretch. Believe me, it gives me fewer problems if I do that....

If you cannot DIY your own maintenance and repairs and must pay someone else to do that for you, do NOT purchase an XK8. Doing so can drain your bank account in the blink of an eye....

If you can DIY your own maintenance and repairs and you decide to purchase one, this forum will quickly become the most valuable tool in your toolbox....

 

Thank you for your detailed response., I am good at alot of things, but mechanics is not my strong points, how expansive the repairs are if you have to give a comparison? i assuming they can not be more then a Mercedes - AMG car. ?

 

due to age and old injuries I’m not able or willing to take on some of the more complicated repairs that these cars are known for needing. The best strategy for someone who can do the simple repairs and maintenance, but not the pricey surgeries, is to buy a car that has already had the known issues dealt with by a previous owner. And comes with the paperwork and records to substantiate the car’s repair history.

That way you have a better than even chance that you won’t get stuck with paying for these jobs yourself.

The list can include, but not limited to suspension parts, water pump, fuel pump(s), cam chain tensioners, oil cooler lines, transmission services, and the stop light switch (which is inexpensive, but back breaking to get to ).

I looked for a car that had these items already replaced. It wasn’t too hard to find one with most of pricey problem areas resolved and with “only”116,000 miles on it. That was 5 years ago, and the most expensive items I’ve had to replace during that 5 years are a set a tires and a battery. Now I’m nearly at 180,000 miles

Pretty cheap so far. And no less reliable than any other 20 year old car . It all hinges on what quality of car you start out with. So take your time looking and don’t buy the first pretty face you see.

Z