Next week I plan to start with my custom project. I purchased well known KB 2.2 by Autorotor utilised by many SVT Cobras. I hope for satisfactory gains with this blower

 

Suggest you drop a note to MacLaud he is in San Diego and can walk you though (and maybe even sell you) the parts to get this to work. Email address is below. He's known for his exhaust but he does a kit and other stuff as well all custom.



macleodperformance@gmail.com

 

Enderle, thanks for the note. I think I can manage to fit KB by myself and with a little help of local workshops.

 

OK but you should drop Bill a note regardless and set up a call, he'll talk your ear off (he knows a great deal out our cars) but he spent a couple years doing this on his car and could save you some time. His Jag is his hobby. He doesn't post on this forum for some reason but his exhaust system is legendary. I'm considering doing this to my car as well and he had a list of "do not do" things that could save your engine.

 

Cool!

 

Dont want to spoil your enthusiasm but the charger you have bought (assume it is a 2.1) is not going to give any significant increase in horsepower or torque than an overspun Eaton. I originally had a Eurotoys 2.1 setup on my 4.0 xkr, had it dynoed and it produced about 20 more hp. Torque was unchanged. I then moved to Andre's 2.6H setup and that has been better. To be honest I have not put this setup on the dyno yet so I can't tell you what the output is now sitting at. I did go over to Belgium to meet a
Andre and his car was brutally quick.

 

As I wrote before this is 2.2 Kenne Bell, comparable with 2.1 KB but with less restrictive inlet.

What SC ratio did you use with 2.1 KB? Sth was wrong with your setup I think.

According to my calculations I have to spin 2.2 20% faster than 2.6 to get comparable gains. KB 2.2 is used in Mustangs and it can generate above 600 rwhp at about 20 psi. I think it can easily break 500 engine hp on XKR. It flows 30% more air than our stock Eaton M112.

 

The unit from Eurotoys is very restricive, not a good setup in the 1st place.

The 2.1 isn't more restrictive then the 2.2, it has just a different design rotors/twist, so also a different backplate/inlet because of that.

You can go very far with the 2.1 or 2.2 unit, but when you need to run these babies fast you get more noise during normal cruise as well. The 2.6H will be less noisy as it doesn't have to turn so fast and is consuming less power (so more left for the rear wheels) due to the higher internal compression.

 

Correct Andre. The Eurotoys kit that I had restricted airflow out of the charger by about 30%. Mating plate was bang up to the face of the charger outlet. The KBs are a bit noisier than the Eaton from inside the car. The 2.6 clearly doesn't need to be driven as hard as a 2.1.

 

SpeedFerret, why didn't you simply rework discharge manifold in your 2.1? It's an easy job. I think 2.1 conversion wasn't cheap, so 20hp gain is not a bang for buck 2.1 can produce similar gains spun up to 15.500 rpm comparing to 3" pulley used in KB 2.6 setup (about 12.500 rpms).

 

Because I sold the kit on for more than I paid for it. Time is actually more precious to me than money and hence Andre's kit was a no brainer for me. The one thing I will say is that the KB2.1 and 2.6 are a little noisier than a stock Eaton M112. I've insulated as best I can but it can be heard. Not really noticable under 50mph. I notice it at motorway speeds 70mph.

 

On noise I just connected the Mina Gallery intake to a 3.5" custom intake hose. The Eaton whine is glorious! I'll bet it is louder than the KB now. It sounds like I have a Turbine under the hood, it literally screams at full throttle (quiet otherwise). So cool.

 

Hi,

I'm back after 3 years of silence

My project is about to be finished, but...

2 weeks ago I took my car for a ride to know acceleration times. The car felt quick. I measured 40-140 km/h and 80-180 km/h times using Racelogic GPS device. Tests were made in poor weather (slightly wet road, low temperature: 36F). I think results aren't bad (newer XKR 510 makes 80-180 km/h in 8.4 sec nad 40-140 on 7.1 sec according to zeperfs.com).

Yesterday I took it to dyno to check numbers. First run showed... 291 HP and the second one 290.7 HP at flywheel. We decided to check boost. I saw... 4PSI rising to 5PSI at redline. The reason of this situation was blocked bypass valve (as opened). Bad HP result but, comparing to poor boost, not so bad I think.

Then I closed the bypass valve manually and blanked off vaccuum hose so the valve remained closed. Boost has immediately raised to 16 PSI but at 5500 rpm acceleration was suddenly stopped. The same situation was in the second run. Dyno showed 375 flywheel HP at 5500 rpm, so poor HP gain comparing to boost gain (+12 PSI!).

Do you have idea why Jag is cutting off at 5500 rpm (it felt as if speed limiter kicked in but it wasn't speed limiter)? Lack of fuel? Unfortunately we didn't put AFR in exhaust tip.

 

Are you using the stock MAF or an aftermarket larger one? If you exceed the max input voltage to the ECU it feels like the speed limiter when it shuts everything down.

 

What year model is this XKR? AJ26S, AJ27S or AJ34S???

 

My car is from february 2000, so AJ27s.

I use stock MAF, stock airbox, stock TB.

 

My 1st guess would be exactly the same as ccfulton has mentioned. Maybe it shows a DTC for high voltage, iirc the system pegs at 4.85 volt.

 

I would check two things first with UltraGauge or other OBD reader.

1. MAF readings should max 400g/s and that's enought for 520bhp+
If the intake filter is too small it may max at lot lower.
I have tested this.
2. Throttle is open up to 100%

It has been dynod 520bhp+ with stock MAF and TB at 16.7PSI / 5950rpm KB2.6H. With very good intake, stock MAF and bored TB a few tens hp more @20PSI.

I guess you have stock fuel pumps and FPR ?

I read the website of your dyno company. They seems to be manufactuer for dynos - so we don't know how to compare the readings vs more common dyno brands.

 

Results from vtech dynos are comparable with other brands (up to 3%) so results are reliable.

Yes, I have stock FPR and both fuel pumps (never touched). Throttle line was adjusted.

I'll log the car and check things you mentioned: MAF readings (maybe it's out of order) and throttle opening position.

What is interesting: during road tests with racelogic car pulled continously till redline with no issues.

 

The behavior described does sound like it could be the MAF cutting off power but a properly working stock MAF should be good for over 500 hp.

What size is your intake? From the pictures it looks too small and restrictive.