I hate asking what is probably obvious, but you've helped me through more obvious ones so here goes.

I am preparing to start my front bearing replacement job. I asked the auto parts store how much it would cost to press the bearings out since I bought the part there. They said $40 per press.

It wasn't until I got home and thought about the job, when I realized this isn't as simple as it appears.

For a bearing replacement, think of all the pressing needed:

1) Hub removal
2)Old bearing out

circlip 1 installed (more on that in a moment)

3)New bearing in

circlip 2

4) Hub pressed in

Guys, am I reasonable to expect all 4 presses to be in a $40 charge? If no, wow I was trying to save money doing it myself. Hiring the mechanic would have been cheaper!

Question2:

The Jaguar workshop manual is clear on 2 items. 1)Install the circlips with gap facing down to allow water to drain.
2)Do not use a circlip removal tool that has a pin which protrudes past the thickness of the circlip. A scratch may comprise the bearings seal.

Looks like the first circlip must be installed before bearing is pressed in. Maybe this serves as a locating stop for bearing being pressed in?

I can't very well expect the auto parts store to stagger and synch their work with me so I can run over and install the circlips in the proper orientation a
in between the bearing press and the hub press.

Am I reasonable to expect them to manage the circlips properly under that same $40 price?

The first time you do something like this it probably seems a lot more complicated than need be, but I'm trying to set this up to go smoothly.

I appreciate your advice and experience.

John

 

I bought a Harbor Freight 20 ton press to do mine mostly because I wasn't willing to trust the typical shop and figured a specialist would charge more than the cost of the press. But I have a project coming up that will make considerable use of it to further justify the purchase.

While it's possible to replace the bearings without special adapters I was able to have a friend turn the support from bar stock for the final assembly, and that made it easier. Large sockets sufficed for pressing out the old bearings.

 

That's exactly what I use for most of the bearings I do, a large socket or a piece of turned steel. It's only the exceptionally large bearings that I use a press on, like BMW's and VW Golf front hubs.

 

Ron
Steve,

Thanks. Looks like it's gonna be a trip to harbor freight. Bet it feels 10x better to do entire job yourself.

From what you recall, is new circlip #1 inserted before new bearing to serve as a stop for the press ?

I imagine it is a guide as to when to stop pressing, but I could be wrong.

John

John

 

+1 to all on the HF 20T press. After once paying $50 for a shop to warp my (Honda) hub, which in time I did over, the cost was justified along with the satisfaction of knowing what I have done. (Also, FWIW, I remove the outrigger angles and hang my press out of the way, flush against my garage wall)

 

https://t.harborfreight.com/10-piece...set-63261.html
This and this;
\https://t.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-...ress-1666.html
Or
https://t.harborfreight.com/12-ton-s...ess-33497.html
Would be sufficient for the job and then you are set for doing other things that might (read will) crop up.

 

All I know is it's there when it comes out and it's there when it goes back in.
I use them as a stop sort of thing, when the bearing is touching it, stop knocking it. It's home.

 

You should have a support that's long enough to have the circlip resting on it. I think that bearing should be pressed to several thousand pounds.

 

Thanks guys. RJ is right, the jag workshop manual says 3 tons of pressure for pressing in bearing and or hub.

Robman thanks for the links! Cheaper than I thought.

John

 

I think the 20 ton is the best choice. There is not enough room between the rails to push the shaft out of the hub, but you can use pieces of 2X3 for spacers. Wood, even pine, is very strong in compression.

 

The 20 ton is better because the rails and frame are beefier and don't flex as much as the smaller ones, too. When the press flexes the piece lets go with a bang and/or it can move around.

 

If you're doing bearings you might as well do your ball joints and bushings as well and I wouldn't attempt those with a 12 ton HF press.

 

Awesome advice!!! Thank you so much, it will be the 20 ton press then. Makes great sense.

John