So I just found a leak on my 2001 Volvo which was the bottom right edge of the radiator by using a pressure kit.. Took me all day to replace it. Put the pressure kit on the 2000 Jag XK8 and yep, leaks from exactly the same edge of the radiator. I love these plastic/al radiators.

Any one else seen this?

 

Kudos to you as you spot on and fixed it . I do dislike plastic radiators as well .

 

Anyone have a DIY to replace the radiator? I found one that said I needed to evacuate the AC system and disconnect AC lines.

 

bump

 

I dont know why you would have to evacuate the refrigerant to change a radiator? Maybe it is a design thing that will not allow the unit to be removed w/o first breaking apart the AC system... but I never heard of that before in any modern car.

You will have to disconnect the AC coolant lines.

 

If you check with JTIS, the radiator, fans and condenser are removed as one unit. I know the fans can be removed alone, I do not know if the radiator can be removed without the condenser.

 

Well. I took a good look. The JTIS does say to remove everything as a unit. But I have removed the fan unit by itself before. The condenser is attached by two bolts on the front of the radiator instead of thru bolts from the rear like most cars. And they are about 8mm x 15mm short bolts way up high in an awkward place. So it is easier to disconnect some ac lines rather than cut your fingers getting to the bolts. But I think I can do it. I'll post a DIY afterwards if successful.

 

A replacement radiator is not cheap. Are these plastic radiators repairable?
The boards describe using a generic radiator and supplemental transmission cooler with thermostat for much less money.
I would be interested in this when the time comes.

 

gpt the radiator out and put the new one in and


???POKYR%UHBUGH !!!!!!



the tranny fluid lines won't mate. then new radiator has the wrong fittings.

 

i feel your pain! Dropped my mom's transmission pan on her lincoln LS (the 5r55N thats in some s-types) took off the filter, removed the solenoid pack to change it out due to a bad solenoid valve, grab my new one out of the box from a huge refurbisher out of Florida, and the stupid thing is identical, except it doesn't have a wired pressure sensor switch...turns out I got a 5r55S unit instead!...man that rubs me the wrong way! I've been waiting 7 days now to get the right part exchanged, driving her around when she needs to go places and all that.

So, whatcha gonna do? replace radiator, or edit one of the fittings?

 

Took pics to Jag dealer where I bought the radiator. They can see it is wrong and will find correct one. They think factory put wrong radiator in box.


The original parts guy had the right one in stock.. He was sick and they orderd the wrong one.

 

I have to replace the radiator on my 2001 XK8 do you have a DIY instructions or pictures on how to do this job?

Many thanks,
David

 

XK8s have female fittings XKRs have male fittings, it should say on it for supercharged cars only

 

corect on fittings, they had ordered a supercharged version.

let me see what I can write up. I think I deleted all the pics I took.

 

as best as I recall
Remove the air filter housing and all tubing up to throttle body first.
Replacing Jaguar XK8 radiator.
Parts :
New radiator, new upper and lower radiator hoses, new upper and lower radiator mounts, new o rings for trans cooler connections, and Jaguar coolant
Steps:
1) drain coolant by undoing the black plug on far right bottom rear corner of radiator, discard coolant as hazardous waste
2) remove upper radiator hose from car
3) remove electrical connectors to fans and ac line and move harness out of the way
4) remove nuts securing fan housing at both sides and pull housing up and out of car, remove the stud bolts carefully from radiator
5) remove lower radiator hose connection to radiator (use special clamp removal tool if available) and remove lower radiator hose
6) spray simple green over all the surrounding area of radiator and also on front of engine and rinse with water to remove any coolant residue
7) undo transmission coolant lines to radiator and try to catch the fluid that comes out, you will need to replace that amount, discard o-rings
8) remove the 5 screws on the radiator top locator piece and remove locator piece
9) loosen bolt that holds ac receiver on far right fender panel and be sure receiver is loose enough to move vertically
10) there are two bolts that hold the ac condenser to the radiator. They are 2/3 the way up the front of the condenser on each side, remove them
11) there are two screws that hold a black wind blanking strip on right front side of radiator, remove them and maneuver strip out of position a little
12) lift up the ac condenser so it disengages from radiator slots at bottom and move condensor forward, this is why the receiver needs to be free to move as it is connected to the condenser
13) you should now be able to maneuver the radiator out of the car

 

Curious as to why you had to replace the mounts?

Also, was the leak real bad or ??
Wondering how you found the leak, as I can smell coolant after car is hot, but cannot seem to trace the leak.

Thansk for the writeup!!

 

If you cannot see leaking hoses at the rear of the motor ("The Octopus"), then rent a cooling system pressure tester from Autozone and pressurize the system.

I had a leak on one of the two overflow lines leading from the coolant tank. It dripped onto the the engine valley and evaporated before creating any puddles under the car. The only way I found this was using a pressure tester. gordo

 

When I replace a component I do everything around it as I don't want to come back again. The mounts could likely still be used, but after 11 years I figure they will age out very soon. I also replaced the foam inserts on both sides of the radiator.

I had the smell of burning coolant, so I pressurized the system. The only leak I could find was from the far right side of the radiator, but obviously that does not lead to burning coolant.

So I replaced the radiator, front hoses and all the hoses back by the firewall and the fill tank.

No burning coolant smell now.
Good luck. Those rear hoses are a real PITA.