Two steps forward and one back.

I finally managed to attach the pair of hoses that connect to the engine, as well as the X-shaped piece with its bolt that prevent them from popping out. I also attached each of these to its corresponding hose leading to/from the cooler and, using new O-rings and sealant, inserted the hoses' metal connectors into the oil cooler, tightening the bolts as much as I thought I could dared without breaking them or stripping the threads.

I next poured in about 7 quarts of oil and started the car. From my vantage point, everything sounded great. But when I stepped out, it was another story: oil was flowing out a gap between the oil cooler and the metal hose connector on the passenger side. Two or three quarts went down the driveway before I shut the engine off. I went back and REALLY tightened the bolts, eliminating any gap between the metal connectors, on the one hand, and the oil cooler, on the other. As I was tightening the bolt on the passenger side, though, I felt a small "slip" as if the bolt had encountered some stripped threads.

I started the car again, closely monitoring the connectors attached to the top of the oil cooler. Everything seemed fine until... POP! ... the passenger side bolt slipped up just enough to allow oil to begin oozing out again.

Now I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed. Some thoughts:

1. Remove the bolt and the metal hose connector's O-ring; lubricate and replace O-ring (I have a spare); put some Loc-Tite Blue on the bolt; insert & tighten; let the Loc-Tite cure before starting engine again.
2. All of the above but also wrap the bolt with some Teflon plumber's tape
3. Alternatively, use drill to slightly enlarge the holes on the metal hose connectors, while also tapping the threads on the oil cooler to accommodate larger bolt.

 

You are grossly over tightening everything. The o-rings do all the sealing with the bolts just keeping the o-rings in place by just a slight snug tightening.

it sounds like you have cracked the fittings. No amount of tightening is going to fix that. Any tightening more than “snug” will keep on making things worse.

Z

PS: o-rings do not require nor benefit from any type of sealant.

 

Thanks — I learned something new without destroying the engine! Fortunately, I have the original oil cooler, which I can clean up & re-install. Onward!

 

I suggest removing the oil cooler so you can see it in the open. Then you can check those threads out and act accordingly. TM

 

It wouldn’t hurt anything to replace the o-rings with the correct Jaguar part # , I’m not sure what the material is, viton is my go-to o-ring material. More durable than nitrile in most cases, you might find the right size in an assortment. Amazon seller “Mr. O-ring” has every size imaginable in viton

Z

 

I am using the OEM Jaguar part, sourced from SNG Barratt.