XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Removing Oil Cooler Lines at Engine Block

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Old May 28, 2025 | 11:59 PM
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Default Removing Oil Cooler Lines at Engine Block

I am in the process of replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler lines on my 2005 XKR. The two hoses connected to the engine block are held in place by an "X"-shaped metal plate with a single bolt in the middle. This bolt can only be seen with the assistance of a mirror or an endoscope; the work space is so tight that I cannot touch it. I have been trying to use a small socket wrench but the extensions I have tried are either too wide to fit in the opening between the two hoses' metal ferrules or are too long to get past a metal bar that also obstructs access.

I am hoping that someone who has successfully removed this bolt can give me some advice. For example, what size socket wrench, extension length, and socket diameter did you use?
 
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Old May 29, 2025 | 07:12 AM
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I used 1/4” drive socket and “wobble joint” . A simple open end / box end wrench is also useful.

I alsd have used a mirror to orient my tool(s). Subsequently I just work by feel.

One word of caution, don’t over tighten when during reassembly. The O-rings do the sealing, the bolt just needs to be snug +.


Stripping those threads in the block is a scenario that leads to nightmares.

Z
 
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Old May 29, 2025 | 07:27 AM
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If my memory is correct, with the fans out of the way you can see the bolt from underneath with car on a lift. I'm not sure you can remove it though as the sway bar is in the way.
I think the socket needed is a 10MM

Jack
 

Last edited by JACKP; May 29, 2025 at 01:52 PM.
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Old May 30, 2025 | 10:56 AM
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Here are a couple of pics that will help.





 
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Old May 30, 2025 | 08:20 PM
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Some great assistance there boys 👍
 
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Old May 30, 2025 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JACKP
If my memory is correct, with the fans out of the way you can see the bolt from underneath with car on a lift. I'm not sure you can remove it though as the sway bar is in the way.
I think the socket needed is a 10MM

Jack
IDK about other years, or the convertibles, but on my 2002 XKR no adjacent parts removal was required to remove and replace the oil lines or the holder.

Z
 
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Old May 31, 2025 | 06:11 AM
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From: Elkin N.C.
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I could have done my 2005 XK8 from the bottom if my hands weren't so large. The sway bar could have not been put in a better place to be totally in the way.

Jack

 
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Old May 31, 2025 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JACKP
”…….The sway bar could have not been put in a better place to be totally in the way.

Jack
I think the engineers were on a quest to make ALL components hard to access and remove. There’s always something in the way, that’s usually made of fragile plastic
 
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Old May 31, 2025 | 09:57 AM
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Speaking of plastic, I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 226,000 miles on it and it loaded with plastic. Not a single piece of plastic on it that has failed. Obviously a far better grade of plastic on this cheap car. It has set out in the hot sun and cold winters all of it's exitance with no problems at all. My 2005 XK8 has been sheltered in a closed garage in the dark from new till now and everything is fragile. Go figure.
Still love the Jag though.
Plastic will probably be the end of all of them.

Now back to the oil lines

Jack
 
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Old Jun 2, 2025 | 05:02 PM
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Default Thanks & Source for NLA Oil Cooler Lines

Thanks to everyone who provided helpful info on this procedure. I was finally able to remove the screw using a 3/4" socket wrench with 3" extension and 10mm socket. I also had to place a pipe over the wrench handle to get the leverage needed to break the screw free. Because the space was so tight, I couldn't use the wrench to completely remove the screw; I had to use my fingers with the 3" extension and 10mm socket by themselves. Today I will attach the new hoses, paying special attention not to over-tighten the screw.

BTW, for the 2005 XKR, one of the coolant hoses attached to the oil cooler (Part C2N2910) is no longer available. (Trust me, I tried to find it everywhere.) Fortunately, Gary at Jagbits was able to do a very nice job of refurbishing the hose using the original aluminum parts and a new rubber hose and connecting ferrules. (See photo, attached.)


Refurbished hose C2N2910
Refurbished hose C2N2910
 
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