Two weeks ago I bought a second 1997 Carnival Red Mica XK8 Convertible (I'm not sure if that makes me a visionary or glutton for punishment!). It only has 64K miles and took it in for some preventative maintenance before a trip. I had the brake fluid flushed and tried to get an
alignment. It failed spectacularly.The right rear wheel is tipped in at the top.and sets about 3/4" farther back in the wheel well than the left. I understand that the camber can be fixed with shims (and I don't see any on this side), but it has everyone stumped as far as the toe-out. I've taken it to 3 alignment shops and they all say it's bad, but nobody can see what's wrong and doesn't want to attack it because of availability of parts and time it would take up in their shop waiting for them.

I'm owner 3. The 2nd owner gave me the receipts for the work he had done. He replaced both U-joints, rear struts, right axle shaft, inner wheel seals, rear knuckle assy, and right caliper. Nothing is mentioned about lower control arm work.
I cant get any motion for-or-aft that would suggest bushing failure and there is no visual indication of failure (herniated rubber in the joints or visual alignment changes from left to right).

I'm wondering if a part from the wrong year or a part for the left instead of right was installed. Anyone have an idea of what might cause this and more importantly, how to fix it?

Here are the readings from the alignment machine:


This is looking in from the right side. (Right side of the picture is the front of the car):

 

Why was where the parts replaced? Very uncommon unless impacted from wreck, curb etc.
Rear shocks replaced? But did the replaced the upper coil spring isolators that deteriorate dropping the ride height in the rear and casuing camber and toe to be off. Maybe they didnt install the shim that used to be there when they replaced the axle?
You need to check the front upper strut mounts for collapse too and your camber is too much and probobly same as rear, drop ride height. And they couldnt even the get toe in front evenly set side to side? The lf toe is okay, i usually go in even more then push out to see where the numbers go. This simulates what the suspension does as you drive and when pushed i want them in the middle, not in the middle static on the alignment machine.

 

Why was where the parts replaced?
I contacted the previous owner and was told the right rear axle and hub broke. While they were in there he had them do the other work.

Rear shocks replaced? But did the replaced the upper coil spring isolators that deteriorate dropping the ride height in the rear and casuing camber and toe to be off. Maybe they didnt install the shim that used to be there when they replaced the axle?
I don't see the spring isolators on the parts list I can see camber, but would that effect the toe-in as well? If so...why only on one side?
I don't see any shims on the side that was replaced. I know that's a problem, but correctable.

And they couldnt even the get toe in front evenly set...
The figures shown are as I brought it in. No work was done at that time because the rear was so seriously out.

 

1.camber always affects toe
2.change ride height up or down, it changes camber (see 1 )
i would made sure the isolators are in good shape and not dalling apart. Theyre right in the metal coil spring mount aboce the coil. You can see from under the car. If theyre good you need to shim the camber on the right and then you should have adjustablitly in the toe eccentric. If still not then most likely the lower control arm is tweeked.

 

The long bolt that attaches the hub to the lower control arm has an eccentric washer built in. That washer nests in a groove in the hub casting. Depending on clock position it will change the settings. If it wasn't replaced in the same position when the hub was replaced, that would explain the bad readings.

 

that will not fix the camber issue and there is simply not enough adjustment either way of that bolt to get him even close to correct toe without fixing the camber issue first