Well yesterday I spent many hours removing the $26 rear wheel bearing I installed a few months ago. It destroyed itself, what fun.

Now I'm trying to take the old components out of the hub carrier. Either I was tired last night or something went wrong. I'm having difficulty ID'ing which is part of the hub carrier and which pieces get removed with a press or a drift.

There are only 8 pieces to remove right?
Inner bearing
Inner bearing
outer bearing
Outer bearing
Inner seal
outer seal
Spacer
Shim

On the hub carrier, there is a thin lip extending out into the hub channel on the inside face of the carrier. Last night I left it alone, convinced myself it should be removed - until I revisited Phillys photos. (Tried to copy them but lost them)

Tough to describe. Let me try this way: does the entire rear bearing get inserted from the Rear? If so I can determine by mounting space available.

Same thought process: the race the instructions direct us to hammer out - does that exit from the front or Rear?

Guys thanks a million for your thoughts. I felt frustrated and confused by this last night. Maybe because I'd just spent nearly 2 hours hammering the pieces of the old bearing off the hub. I thought this round would only take an hour or 2 the second time around (ha ha- not!)

Let me know if you want a photo.

John

 

See silver lip at back



See black ring around this rear view. Is the black metal part permanent or press it out?

 

Just looked at Bob Motorcarmans comments from last time I did this job. He drifts bearing races out from both ends. Maybe it's as simple as looking to see if inner bearing race can clear this thing or not. I bet this is the inner bearing race, but wanted verification after looking at Chillyphilly's photos. The protruding lip is thin and can be bent.

John

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-assembly-rear

 

From memory it sounds like you have all the pieces listed that should come out. There are multriple ridges, or lips, inside the hub carrier that look like they could come out with the drift, but they do not. It is difficult to tell by the pictures, especially with the old grease in there.

This first picture is the closest picture I have of what you are describing, taken from the brake rotor (outside) facing in with both races out already. There is a key way on one side (bottom slot in picture) and then there is a filled keyway (in top of picture). Using one keyway you can drift out both of the races, one from the inside and one from the outside. The filled keyway looks like it could lock in whatever else you may try to drift out, which should be part of the hub carrier unit and does not come out.

The second picture is with both races sitting where they need to go. Notice the keyway again. The back face of the races back up to the useable keyway so you can drift one race out from the inside, and one race out from the outside. They cannot both come out of the same side.

 

Johnken,

Do you attribute the quick self-destruction of your new rear wheel bearings to lousy parts quality, improper installation, or what? I am surprised they lasted only a few months....

 

Jon, thought about how to address this inevitable question. I'd never buy a $26 Rear bearing set again.

Who to blame? I don't know. It was my first time, could have been me, Terrys jaguar told me they had no bad reports about them when I purchased.


Water did get in, my fault, but total destruction? Guess I didn't expect that. Jon I have no right to blame anyone, maybe a combo of bad luck.

John

 

Thanks guys, while waiting I followed Bobs advice - you drift the races out from both ends. The piece with a lip that I questioned, was left over from the previous bearing. I think I'm about good to go and put her back together.

John