Iv got a small rust bubble, just above the plastic bummper, behined the left side rear wheel.
I think this is some times called the rear saddle bag area..

So started looking for problem areas..

I started in the rear wheel arch area with a wire wheel on a grinder, i remove all the black under seal just above the arch lip and uncoverd lots of rust holes.

The outer wheel arch is still in good condition so i just need to repair the inner one, (think i caught this just in time)


I removed what i could by hand then started to cut with the grinder, back to good metal.





After removing the rot i had to remove the lip sealer by hand, The outer arch has some slight surface rust in places but will clean up easly.




I used the small (cheap) english wheel to make the repair patches and get the curved shape needed, i then welded the lip on.



The above repair patch starts at the saddle bag area,
it was a really difficult shape to get right, so i made this in 3 bits and welded them together.

This next one gets me past the half way mark of the arch. (thats as far as iv cut out for now)



A view from inside the boot/trunk area of the repair area (light shining through the hole cut)




Thats as far as i got for now...To be continued...

 

Definitely not recommended

So it appears that the inner/outer seam seal was intact, and the rot is from crud stuck to the underside of the inner wheel arch?

 

Yes michaelh, the inner/outer seam seal was intact.
The rot in my case was caused by water getting inbetween the under seal and the metal,
the wheel arch has no doubt had after market under seal applied over the top of the factory under seal in its life time.

I think the problem with applying after market under seal is in poor preparation befor it is applied.
If the area is not fully cleaned back and inspected closely,
and any defects in the original under seal are not correctly rectified,
then any trapped water/moisture will be hidden underneath the new under seal and rot/rust out the metal.

This photo shows the side of the inner wheel arch that should have been protected by the under seal.


This photo shows the other side (of the above) that would be facing the outer wheel arch



From the above 2 photos,
its obvious that my inner wheel arch was rutsting from the outside going inwards due to the under seal not protecting the metal as it should.
By the way before i set about with the wire wheel on the under seal it didnt look to bad,
Lots of after market under seal applied incorrectly over the years can hide lots of issues and make things look good !

The next issue...
even though the seam sealer was intact between the inner/outer lips, and doing a good job of protecting the outer lip.
The inner lip was rusting badly on both sides.
This seam sealer between inner/outer lips is not the original factory seam sealer, (as the outer wheel arch has been replaced in the past)

This photo shows the inner arch lip that would have been up against the seam sealer between the inner/outer lips.



As can be seen from above photo the lip has rust/rot that has crept in between this inner lip and the seam sealer.

Next issue..
Well i dont think its a rust issue,
but the pannel bonding foam higher up between the inner/outer wheel arch panels dosnt appear to have been applied correctly at the factory !

If you look at the photos in my first post, you can see the impression of the inner arch that i cut out left in this panel foam bonding.
This shows it was only applied correctly at the saddle bag area, and as it moves towards the front of the arch the impression is not there,
and it completely disappears before it gets to the top of the arch, and what i believe to be the fire brake just past the top of the arch.

 

A littel more done (removed)

The next bit of inner wheel arch has had a patch welded on at some time in the past (by a previous owner)


So time to remove this patch and see what is underneath..





No surprise there then.. (bad repair)

I then made a paper template to make the new repair patch..


Then using the grinder to cut the rough shape out..



The next job is trying to turn this flat bit of metal into an inner wheel arch shape, using the small english wheel... (some how)...

 

Another previous repair patch is just below the one i removed yesterday.



I was thinking of leaving this one, but decided to remove it today..



Think i made the right decision....

Now i can remove all the rust/rot that was coverd up by the old repairs back to good metal.
Then give the back of the outer arch and lip a good clean and paint with the epoxy 121 (before but welding in the new inner arch repair patches)

The copper tube i installed to direct cavity oil (when i did work on the sill/rocker area) is going to come in very handy,
It will help protect the back of the weld and the gap between the inner and outer wheel arch when its all done.

You can just see the top of the copper tube..



This photo shows the wax oil probe just coming out the top of the copper tube.



This photo showes the probe pushed in through the access hole in the closure panel, and it should easily reach past the top of the wheel arch..



Now i need to get the repair patches made....

 

I agree. You would always be wondering otherwise...

I take it you have all the interior out?

 

No not all... The rear interior quarter panels are still fitted in the car.

 

OK- you can get to the inside of the wheel arch quite well once the side panel is out of the way:



I just ran a bead of hot waxoyl down the join.

Note the liberal amounts of wax protection from the factory.

 

Well back to work Monday, so the repair work will slowdown (weekends only)

I have been making the repair panels and now all done..
For the one in front of the rear wheel, near the sill closure panel,
i used the old patch as a template and a jack handel as a dolly to get the shape.



Now offered up to make a paper template for the curve down to meet the outer lip



After using the template to cut the metal it was tack welded to the other bit.



Then offered up and carefully bent the tack welded bit to get a good fit in to the outer lip.
Then fully welded and dressed it ..


Then welded the inner arch lip to it....................................


Again it was offered up for a good fit then fully welded and dressed .

All rear inner arch repair patches, now done (still need to epoxy some)



fitted together temporarily off the car.....(If all this works ill be amazed).



All this will have to be welded to the car one bit at a time..
So starting at the sill closure panel i use the repair patch to cut around the shape to get a good fit for butt welding.



The same for the next bit.




The first two patches are now a good fit and ready for butt welding (after covering with epoxy 121)




Next job is to do the same at the other side with the patch next to the rear bumper, then the last one at the top of the arch.

Once iv got a good fit for them all, i will clean the back of the outer arch and lip, then give it 2 coats of epoxy.
Then i can start to butt weld the repair patches in place .

 

Looks amazing as always. Do you not get frustrated everytime to check another bit of the car now?

I'm still only half way through repairing my foot well hole and I'm already fed up! Maybe if I didn't have to work so much it might feel more enjoyable.

Have you got a target for when you think your car will be back on the road?

 

XK Owen....
I did get frustrated and annoyed when i first started, but not any more
Now im just pleased to find it and get it sorted.

it gets easier the more you find and repair, and you get better at it the more you do, (that's a win win in my book)

Well when i first started i was hoping it would be ready for the summer 2021,
now im hoping for summer 2022 (only 5 months or so away)
But i have lots to do, and i dont want to rush the repair work, so if its not ready by then it will be summer 2023 (only 17 months or so away) LOL!

Things still to do......


Front left floor pan...front part of the left sill...

Finish left inner rear arch (check right rear arch!)

Remove rear bumper and repair left/right rear quarter saddlebag areas

Finish left side trans tunnel under car with seam sealer, then do the same on the right side.

Check all floor pan area for defects in the factory under seal and fix if needed.

Remove all surface rust above rear sub frame area then cover with epoxy 121.

Remove and renew left/right rear brake pipes from front to rear.

Remove and renew fuel lines from tank to front of car (flow,return and evap) With new fuel filter.

After rear arch repair it will need new under seal over the epoxy 121

Refit the rear subframe (work of art) new hand brake cables etc.

Refit the interior, carpets, seats etc.

Fill and flat all repair areas on body work

Replace factory dimpled sill finish.

MDZ Base coat and top coat to body repair areas (could all go wrong and i will have to get it to a spray shop!)

It will need a four wheel alignment done and an mot.


Then i can enjoy driving the car once again.

At another time ( over one winter) the front subframe will come out for rust repairs

Good luck with the floor pan work, just take your time...

 

Thanks michaelh for the advice about removing the rear seat quarter panel, now iv got good access to the back of the repair area...

Iv welded the first two repair patches together (off the car) to make one larger patch.

The outer arch and lip was cleaned up and painted with epoxy 121.



I then removed all of the sound deadening from the internal part of the wheel arch ready for welding.

I used tiger seal to bond the inner and outer arch lips together and started to butt weld the repair in place.
(keeping the 1mm gap)


Now fully welded and bonded in place.



A view of the weld from inside the car.



After cleaning the area and dressing the weld i then gave the repair area a coat of epoxy 121

Inside...........(new sound deadening will be fitted to this area)


Outside..........


The repair sections are working out well....
another two sections still to weld in place but before i can do that, i have to do a repair to the rear quarter wing (saddlebag area).

 

Ah. This explains why the smell of welding has been drifting across Durham recently.

Impressive.

Graham

 

Lovely work.
I guess by now even the tricky shapes around the rear wheelarch won't faze you

 

Its time to fill the Durham air with that welding smell once again...

Yes michaelh, i think iv now reached a point that not much can faze me on this rust restoration...

Well after a brake from this thread i can now continue welding in the two remaining patches.
I used tiger seal between the inner and outer lips and tack welded the next one in place.



After fully welding it in place i dressed the weld and then offered up the last repair panel for a little fettling ready for butt welding it



This last panel is the one that comes down to meet the rear quarter closure panel.


Then it was tack welded in place.



This view is from inside the boot/trunk looking at the tack welds and shows the small gap needed for butt welding..(and some pin holes in the weld)



After fully butt welding in place and sorting out any pin holes in the weld, it was dressed and got its first coat of epoxy 121.


And from in the boot/trunk.


This is an attempt to show the full inner arch repair..



All the welding is now done on this repair, after it gets one more coat of epoxy 121 it will get some sort of stone chip coating to give good protection in the wheel arch area.

 

Once again, well done. I admire both your skill and your persistence....

 

Have you tried using these .. The blade goes between the panels (1mm ) and the bar pulls the panels level when you tighten the wing nut.Tack weld either side and take it out . Comes in packs of 8 ,quite cheap. A small saw cut in the back of the crossbar helps keep it central/stops it from falling if vertical.
If you cannot retrieve the metal bar I use a bit of an old knitting needle ( plastic ) and let it fall into the cavity.

These are on Amazon under Butt Welding Clamps about £12 for 8

 

Iv seen them clamps but iv not used them yet..

I will get some as they will be a big help when i get round to replacing the left side floor pan, when i did the right side one it was lap welded.
When i do the left one im going to butt weld it, and them clamps will help keep the gap and help over come gravity much better than magnets.

I think the trick with them clamps is not to tack weld to close to it, as heat expands metal and the gap closes when welding, this can trap the blade.

 

Looking forward to a photo of a row of those holding the new floor in place.

 

Iv started to remove the bitumen underseal from the wheel arch ( ready for the new stone chip coating )

This has revealed more rust, most is surface rust with slight pitting, this will be removed with rust eating gel and a spot blaster then epoxy 121.
One area is deep rust and will need cutting out and a repair patch welded in place.

The original underseal in most places is in good condition, so this wont be remove.
Some photos ...






This area above the bump stop will need cutting out



Now cut out..



This repair patch will be butt welded in place after some fettling..



It was a lot of hard work to remove the bitumen underseal but worth all the effort to get this rust sorted before it got really bad...