Each time I run the top it pops out above middle
I Can gently press it back till next time
Doable? How much for seal?
Any special tools
You know how to do this?
Thanks

 

HiRev, Can you say a little more please? I can't picture exactly what you are referring to mate. Maybe a photo would be great.

Thanks,

John

 

No photo, but if you look at the rear window of the convertible,it has a rubber outter seal that you can see surrounding the rear glass window, on the outside. this seal moves out of it's grove in the middle upper side when i put top up and down, i can press it back into the grove easily but it comes out again. wondering if it is a wear item or an item you can just press into the rear window when replacing and has anyone had this issue?? thanks

 

Changing the seal according to the tech manual is a 2 man job and requires cutting the old seal out and gluing in a complete new seal. You can download the XK8 Manual in the stickies and it has the step by step.
The part number for the seal is:
15. Backlight glass, convertible outer seal GJA9022AC

Jagbits lists them for just over $90.00.

 

Thank you , sounds like it needs a special glass company to do it, and i know just the place. beyond my home repair skills or just a dab or glue here and there.

 

I had a very similar problem when I put the window up. It would distort the rubber and not seal properly until I pushed on the window.

Fix was to clean the rubber seal on the rear quarter window and then apply a light coat of silicon. It stopped catching and has glided into place correctly since. It has been about 3 months now. Cheap fix and worth a try.

The front window can be adjusted out, but that involves removing the door card.

 

A most excellent suggestion thank you

 

I have been re-assembling my door panels and vapor barriers on my two doors this past couple of days to correct the crappy Dealer Recall work and the parts they broke. The inner window trim on my door glass comes up with the window nearest the latch, and I constantly have to reach over and push it back down and it looks tacky. Now that I have removed and repaired the attachment clips/pins on the door panel, it should move close and capture this seal, but I do not have too much faith that in time it will not dislodge and start creeping again.

To the point; I used a hot glue gun on the door mounts, as that is how it appears they were mounted at the factory with great success, the bond is strong and pliable. While I had access, I also glued the ends of the window's inner trim that creep up, and pounded the trim back down with a rubber hammer, this also worked extremely well, and I am glad I set the piece quickly, as the cooler door metal sped up the curing process and the glue set to cement rather quickly. The hot glue guns are cheap, I also used it to re-attach the leather around the door card that was peeling back a bit on the tight corners.

 

Does anyone know how to find and replace the seal on the rear window of a XK8 convertible? Mine is ripped and the dealer tells me you have to replace the entire window and mechanism for about $1,2000!!
Mike
2004 XK8 Convertible
2010 XF
1967 Austin Healey BJ8

 

I have a couple of parts cars. If you want to try a used one dend me a PM.

 

Old thread, but I have a similar problem. The bottom of the rear back glass seal for the convertible window pops out on the bottom every time I lower and raise the top. I can push it back in easily, but doesn't stay the next time. It still appears to be water tight at the bottom, but that's not completely clear.

The workshop manual (1999 501-11 p. 7) for the installation of the glass seems to indicate that the rear seal is installed at the same time as the glass itself and is imbedded in the original window adhesive, which makes sense.

So, question is whether I will be successful in either

1. Simply removing a part of the bottom of the seal and using an adhesive to reglue it (using urethane?) while leaving the top part and sides connected to the rear window. This probably still leaves a part of the window seal not particularly well sealed around the edges of wherever I stop pulling.
2. Should I take the whole gasket off and reglue on top of the old adhesive all around. If so, some contact adhesive or urethane window adhesive?
3. Remove the whole damn window and start again as per the removal and installation instructions in the Workshop manual? (not going to do this probably)

Has anyone tried 1) or 2) with success? Success here is the seal sealing the window.

 

so i paid a guy to fix it and bought a new gasket, which was from an online source that supports this forum. the guy gave up after taking it out only and charged me nothing
paid another guy to put it back in, as is, reuse perfectly good gasket and glue the **** out of it, use heat, etc cost me $500 and i have had no issues the car lives outside during rain this year, and now i have a temp garage so it's all ok, i can't give this thing away by the way!
i am thinking that the top was replaced when it leaked and window put in wrong that's why the seal came out.

 

Thanks, then I'll probably try that. Do you know if he used the typical adhesive for windows?

 

it was a couple of years ago, at the time we agreed he would use the best adhesive, perhaps marine stuff, certainly his shop did tops and interiors for a living so her knew stuff, it was a crap shoot because the first place gave up and several places includes glass only places just said NO

i got lucky, it's been about 2 plus years no issues of leaks or changes in the gasket, it does not quite stock to me, but it works and the car just shouts patina anyway, this is part of it.

 

Great, thanks. Good to know it worked for quite a while. I'll probably use a urethane adhesive to try to bond what I assume is underlying urethane to the overlaid rubber (e.g. URE-Bond II or something like it).

 

Tried URE-Bond II, a urethane adhesive in the notch that goes around the window, pulled up the piece that was not stuck in the bottom middle of the rear window. This adhesive should bond to rubber, the remnants of the existing adhesive (if it's urethane or not) and the window.

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ure-bond-ii/

Used a syringe to apply into the notch, both in the section I pulled up, and down into the sections on both sides of the exposed notch. URE-Bond II will flow down the syringe after being mixed, but I used a fairly large bore spinal needle (~18 gauge) to avoid making an adhesive mess. I don't think insulin needles will work here because the adhesive is fairly viscous, and the spinal needles have the advantage of being long enough to get down the edges of the repair into the surrounding notch. I did think about injecting with a small insulin needle through the gasket, but I don't think that will work, and the much larger spinal needles will leave a hole.

The urethane adhesive has a pot life of about 5 minutes at 72 F, but it was pretty hot so I did this quickly. Reseated the gasket. Covered the gasket with very wide painter's tape, and let cure for 24 hours.

Have no pictures of the procedure because daughter was busy helping through the entire procedure. I realized I was 2 minutes into the procedure and was not nearly finished. If any one else uses this fix, I suggest doing the dry run I didn't bother with before beginning the application of the adhesive.

However, appears to have worked, gasket is well reseated and holding, at least for now.

 

The top has been up and down many times this week. The "spot gluing" approach seems to have worked, at least for now.


Bottom of seal not pulling up any more.