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Rear parking brake cables

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2019, 05:15 AM
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Default Rear parking brake cables

My car only just scraped through its MOT parking brake test last year, I suspect corroded cables which are starting to bind. We will see on further inspection. Anyway, if anyone has changed these before and has and wise works of wisdom or pics, I would appreciate some tips.

The workshop manual of course makes it looks easy, but on old corroded cables, real life will be different.

I will probably tackle the job once the weather warms up a bit as its a bit cold at the moment.
 
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Old 01-19-2019, 01:41 AM
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I'll be doing this job in the next month or two. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:45 PM
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I was going to do a write up on this job but I found this great "rear wheel bearing pdf" by chilliphilly which also covers the job so wont bother.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...nstall-pdf.pdf

I did have one issue though, I couldn't get the rear rotors to come off, I am pretty sure they have never been off the car and were rusted on. My biggest hammer made no difference and since I planned to replace them, I took the angle grinder to them. So this is a quick and dirty solution to stuck rotors.

Small segment cut off.



Chisel hammered in.



Job done.

 
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Old 02-06-2019, 03:10 PM
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When in doubt, break out the big tools....
 
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Old 02-06-2019, 05:30 PM
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The linings on the handbrake shoes look paper-thin. Handbrake must have been sticking ON .......?

Graham
 
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:35 PM
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You can very easily remove drums and disc rotors that have corroded to the studs by liberally spraying Freeze-Off (CRC brand) at the base of the studs and LIGHTLY tapping sideways on them.

but that eliminates the fun of destroying parts, doesn't it ??

Z.
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GGG
The linings on the handbrake shoes look paper-thin. Handbrake must have been sticking ON .......?

Graham
It turns out I had misdiagnosed the issue, I thought I had binding cables as the handbrake was difficult to apply, probably caused by water ingress and lack of use. I didn't occur to me that the shoes could be worn out as I thought that they were never used.

However when I stripped the parts off I found that the cables were moving freely and that the shoes were completely worn. My suspicion is that Mrs RD has at some point applied the handbrake and then driven off with it applied or one or more of the previous owners has done likewise.

Lucky for me I did not buy new cables ahead of time as they are rather expensive.

New shoes, spring kit, discs and pads came to a total of £78 from Autodoc, my new favorite parts supplier.
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by zray
You can very easily remove drums and disc rotors that have corroded to the studs by liberally spraying Freeze-Off (CRC brand) at the base of the studs and LIGHTLY tapping sideways on them. .....
I must assume Oklahoma doesn't get as much and rust as we do here in the UK. I have been known to "easily remove" drums with a gas axe and a 14 lb sledge hammer.

On a more serious note, the rear discs are often difficult to remove because the handbrake shoes have not been backed off sufficiently.

Graham
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:45 AM
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Will you be asking Mrs. RD how many times she has driven off with the handbrake still applied?!!
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:41 AM
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I suspect a PO will get the blame.
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
Will you be asking Mrs. RD how many times she has driven off with the handbrake still applied?!!
Easier just to change the shoes every few years.
 
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GGG
I must assume Oklahoma doesn't get as much and rust as we do here in the UK. I have been known to "easily remove" drums with a gas axe and a 14 lb sledge hammer.

On a more serious note, the rear discs are often difficult to remove because the handbrake shoes have not been backed off sufficiently.

Graham
even the front disc rotors get frozen to the studs. When I was replacing the XKR front rotors last spring, I was out of the CRC Freeze, so thought I'd just wallop them with my mini sledgehammer a few times and they'd just fall off. Nope. I'm a slow learner, I wacked on those rotors for 30 minutes before I gave up and drove (5 minutes) to the parts store and bought a couple of cans of the freeze-off. 1/2 can per wheel, sprayed liberally around the stud base and the rotors did indeed fall right off. It's magic in a can as far as I'm concerned.

Z

re the weather, I'm restricted to the house today. We had an ice storm overnight and all the doors are frozen shut with about 3 inches of ice covering everything in sight.

yes, plenty of rust here to deal with if one leaves their machinery unprotected, or doesn't take care to wash off the salted sand used occasionally. When I lived on the beach in south Texas, I'd wash off the undercarriage twice a week and never had the rust worm invasion. Without a strict regimen of cleaning and protection, rust wins every time.
 
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