Hi

We are trying to replace the CATS dampers on the rear of our 1999 XK8 coupe.

To complicate things this is being done on the driveway at home.
The rear is lifted and one spring and damper are loose but not enough room to get them out.
The 4 bolts holding the A plate to the diff are out and it's been bent down a little as per motorcarman's instructions. They are certainly not falling out that is for sure.
The lower damper bolt is out. The top plate is undone and I have a spring compressor on to stop the spring from opening to it's full extent.
The hub does not seem to want to move down any lower as it seems bottomed out.

Any ideas? Anything is most welcome.
Thanks in advance.
James

 

A 'scissor-jack' between the aluminum hub and the rubber 'bump-stop' will push down on the control arm enough to get the damper out AFTER the caliper is removed and hung out of the way.

 

Thanks for the advice.
I have a scissor jack pushing it as far down as it will go, but the problem is the top of the damper will not come out of the space in the frame where the plate bolts in. The plate comes down an inch or more from the frame, but the top of the thing will not come down low enough to clear the bottom edge of the frame. Same at the other end. If I push the whole thing back up into the frame, the lower part where the main bushing is will not lift high enough to lift out of the lower perch and pull through.

Really frustrating. Do I need to take the hub off next to give it some room to move?

Next time its subframe out, far easier. Still a pain, but easier on the driveway I reckon. So far I have had a dismantled car sitting there for weeks and I am stuck in a stalemate. :-(

 

I did this job on a street in NYC,,, feel your aggravation (not quite pain)...

There are 4 bolts (my car is a convertible) on the underside of the rear differential support plate (the triangular thing) set up that if UNDONE allows you to get 2 or 3 (maybe more) inches in the DROP of the lower dog bone, fulcrum arms, or whatever they are called. You'll want to jam a 2x4 or some other spacer in the gap while you are working.... It's talked about in the forum if you Google search XK8 XKR rear shock replacement... Then, as suggested, use a jack of some sort to hold everything "open" while you wrestle with the shock, spring, upper plate etc... See post 6 below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...removal-23472/

Warning... Can't remember if it's the RH or LH side. There is a set of wires that runs parallel with the upper shock mounting plate. Be CAREFUL not to pinch that wire set between the plate and the body of the car. It's super easy to do,,, many have. You'll see it.

 

This is where


I am getting stuck then. The plate is bent down, see photo. Scissor jack pushing up down as far as it will do.

Is it best jacked-on stands under the jacking points? Remove the entire A plate? This seems way more difficult than everybody else suggests.

 

Yes Jack stands under jacking points...

I hate to do this to you but the photos are hard to make out.

The scissor jack should go somewhere between the fulcrum arms and the rubber stopper area above it.

I'll have to search a diagram of the rear section...
Give me a few.

Are you saying that the TOP section of shock is what will not fall down far enough to remove, the bottom section, which?

 

And,,, git rid of the compressors, you shouldn't need them. They might be binding you up...

 

I believe if the hub carriers are still in place/upright and the axle is still in place you can rest the scissor jack on the top of the aluminum flat on the carrier and do your jacking... I'm sorry, but it's been a little while (with lots of jobs on 3 other cars for me) since I did this. It is pretty well documented though...

What about the support braces. I seem to remember them coming up against the underside of the arm as well. Maybe allow those to sag?

 

That's odd:- they should come out.
Although it doesn't directly address your clearance issue, I would definitely remove the caliper to ease access.

I also undid the 4 bolts on the A-frame and used spring compressors so I didn't need to rely on bending things too much.

You need less clearance room at the bottom of the spring than the top, as the recess in the wishbone is quite shallow. That is the way I went, but compressing the shock through the wishbone was a bit of a faff (as it was also on reassembly).

The support braces Jay mentions are only present on the convertible.

Rothwell did an excellent write up in his thread which I found very helpful:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post1928458

 

Use a prybar on the bottom of the spring and REMOVE THE CALIPER. (as michealh advises)

Lever the spring and damper out and DOWN.

 

Just for reference, this is how Jaguar do it in the Workshop Manual.

 

We stopped using the shop manual method because compressing the spring in situ is dangerous.(the 'beaded chains' were a stupid idea)

Fixing cars faster makes the mechanic more money so we find better ways.

 

Scissor jack is on the top of the flat part of the ali hub.

Jack on the hub flat.



Jack top under frame behind bump stop.

Top plate loose and moved down 1 inch or so.

Top plate loose and moved down 1 inch or so.



Bottom of spring out of perch.

The problem is not the spring, the problem is the length of the damper itself.
Push the whole lot up into the recess of the frame and no room to get the lower loop and bushing out of the perch.
Or
Push the whole lot down onto the lower spring perch and there is not enough room to move the top of the damper out of the recess at the top.

Forgive the drawing.

Still stuck.

I will try removing the compressors and moving the axle stands to the jacking points.

 

Added some more photos.

Not enough room to move the top out of the recess in the frame/chassis.
Not enough room to move the bottom out of the perch.
Spring is not what is in the way, the damper is.

I will try removing the compressors and moving the axle stands to the jacking points.

 

Caliper and the bracket are now both off, not made any more room, its vertically too long, and moves side to side no problem at all.

 

You have to compress the bottom of the shock up into the spring to allow it to clear the wishbone. Yes it's a faff, but it will come out.

 

FORGET THE TOP!!!!!!!!

As michealh stated, lever the spring and damper UP and out of the lower control arm.(then drop the assy out of the 4 studs, rotate and remove)

 

Gents. Thank you. I got the bas7&ard out!!!!!!!!! Needed compressors to stop the spring expanding. Scissor Jack to push the hub down, another jack with a large deep socket on it to push the bottom of the damper up, then catch it all with a pry bar above the perch.

Cable twisted up. Is there a way to avoid this happening again (cable twist)?

Cable twisted.


Not like the bottom end was also shot.

Bushing is also a gonner.

Now to do the other side and hopefully the easier side with no other cables or fuel lines in the way. But first, clean, protect and paint. Oh, not forgetting put the new one on.

Thanks for your help.

 

You do'n it dude! You do'n it!!!

That car is going to LOVE and care for YOU, lol...
It's all good Man! There is not a single person in this thread that hasn't been there,,, spin'n, cursing, swearing, scratching and kicking rocks, lol. Strange body language, sweat flying, lol. I can see it now!

Good stuff. The other side will be down and out in 15min!

All back in,,, ummmmm? I'm just teasing.
Good work!

 

^^ LOL. Jay, I did let a few expletives out when replacing those damn brake shoes...


Not sure how the cable got twisted since the shock won't turn particularly easily once it's nipped up to the upper spring mounting?

If you can find some way to keep the shock compressed, it will make reassembly easier - someone here suggested thin twine anchored at the top and threaded through the bushing.
I used spring compressors again when putting it all back together:- it depends on your tolerance for bending things.

Consider replacing the upper spring isolators (foam doughnuts) 'while you're in there'.