After 8 months and 5,000 miles, I had my first problem with my 2000 XK8. When lowering the top I saw that the left rear window had only gone down about half way. I figured something had knocked the sequence out and raised the top back up. I heard a rubbing/grinding coming from the window and a “jerky” movement while going up. I lowered and raised the windows again and the same thing happened. I do not want to lower them again as I can drive the car right now as they are in the up position. I called around the a few dealers and indy shops and got a price of $950.00 to $1,300 to replace the regulator. Just under $400 is the best price I found for the part. If I need to pay $1,000+ to get this fixed, so be it. BUT since the window does go up and down, I feel the regulator is not gone, maybe just going. Maybe I can save it. Looking at JTIS, it seems like a really bad job to replace the part including removing the top. In this forum and others if is rumored that the regulator can be replaced without pulling the top off, but no details are given. It always seems like a “friend of mines brother knew a guy who did it once” I am not afraid to tear into this, but would like some advice. Has anyone had this issue before? I am look for advice and a plan of attack and maybe a good shop in the Chicago area. HELP!

 

Glen, what you are looking for may be in one of these threads: Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum - Search Results

Good luck!

 

There must be a virus going around. My 2000 developed the Exact same problem a week ago. Seems like it must be mechanical, not electronics, because of the noise and movement.
Lets keep each other advised if we learn anything.

John

 

Sorry to hear that. This is what I have learned so far. I just finished removing the regulator with out removing the top. It took me about 3 hours to get it out. I am about to order a new regulator. Also notice some oil in the area so I will have to check into that. It just keeps getting better and better. On Jag-Lovers forum I found someone who had instructions for removing the regulator. I just sent him an e-mail thanking him for the time/work saving info and if I could post the PDF file here. If you would like it you can PM me and I will send you the info.

 

I thought I would update this thread. I did change my left rear regulator. I ordered one form Neely Jaguar and they were great. Lowest price I found and ordered it last Monday and it was here Wednesday. A big thank you for one of our sponsors. The rear window regular CAN be removed without removing the top. Most of the work is removing the rear seat and back (squab), the rear quarter capping and casing and the rear speakers. You must then remove the inner and outer window seals. Then loosen up the 3 mounting nuts on the regulator. The trick of not removing the top is to disconnect the battery and open the valve on the hydraulic pump and partially close the top. This allows you to remove the 3 blots holding the convertible top bracket. Lower the top and pry the bracket in wards about 1/2 inches. This will allow the regulator to be removed. I also put a large amount of duct tape on the outside sheet metal where the window lifts out. It takes some time to work the regulator out but it will come out.
I would like to thank Mr. Dan Jensen from Jag-lovers.com for providing instructions in a PDF format. It was very clear and well done. I am not sure I would have attempted it without them. If you would like a copy of the PDF, PM me or contact Dan at djensen1@san.rr.com.
The whole job took about 4 hours to remove the regulator and another 3 hours to reinstall it. About one hour of the install was adjusting the window. If you knew how to remove the rear interior, it would cut about 90 minutes off.
The top and window goes up and down with no problems so I guess the operation was a success.

 

I was given permission today from Dan Jensen to post the instructions for replacing the rear window regulator. It makes the job much less scary. It might be a good one for the FAQ's.
Also I have the old regulator. The cable is off the lower pully and is locked up tight. If anyone would want it I will be glad to send it for shipping.

 

Glenn, thanks to you and Dan.
Has anyone considered replacing both regulators at once since much of the removal work was already done. I guess the real question is, when one regulator goes, is the other likely to follow soon?

John

 

After taking out the rear interior panels and the speakers once, I could do it again in about an hour or so. It's just removing hardware and is kind of a fun project. Since you don't have to remove the top, removing the interior is 90% of the saved worked. The rear windows don't really get used that often and since I have had cars in the past that were 30 years old with working regulator, I thought I would take the chance.

Since I have a long list on "want-to-do" projects on my car, I will put the $300.00 saved somewhere else....HOWEVER, if the regulator goes out next month.......

 

I would venture, in my 4 years here, I have only heard of 4 or 5 rear window regulators being replaced, that's a pretty small statistic relative to the number of xk8/R owners we have and I always at least read the new member threads in this section.

 

I see going through the PDF file, which is a great piece of work, and found that there is another plastic part failed that is almost impossibe to get to. I was just wondering if the regulator is failed or just that plastic slide. If just the slide was failed that has to be a lot cheaper to replace than the whole regulator.

EZDriver 2000 XK8

 

On mine the cable was off the bottom pully and wound up tight in the motor gear

 

More kudos to Dan and Glenn for putting up these instructions! I just finished putting my '06 back together. I also had the wire jump the pulley and tangle on the motor. I straightened and rethreaded the wire back through the system. Running the actuator off a couple 9 volts for a while built up some confidence that the fix might last. For now at least, I've gotten away with this as a free repair!

 

Hey, just saw the uploaded PDF document, thanks for that! I've added this thread to our growing XK8/XKR FAQ thread. nice job!

 

I used the PDF instructions to replace my left rear regular, completed task today 9/22, took about 8 hours total over two days. My window failed about 1/3 way closed, had to remove the old motor and cut the cables in order to get it out.
Spent several hours trying to get the new regulator back but the motor/drive kept hanging on the interior frame despite moving the top hinge out of the way. I finally resorted to the old wisdom "use a bigger hammer", two hits on the offending spot with a drift and five pound hammer and it slid into place on the first try.
Thanks to all the members that contributed to this topic or I wouldn't have attempted it myself (also my number two son was available).

BobF

 

Wanted to drop a quick update that after 2 months and lots of use of the top in Phoenix fall weather, my rethreaded parts are still working well!

 

Great article. After reading all the info I still can not come to a conclusion on how to fix my problem on my 2003 XKR. Maybe someone can give me some ideas on how to fix it. The problem is as follows: if I lower the back windows, then close them the driver side one will not go all the way up. It stops about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the door window. If I pull foreword on the quarter window it will then make contact with the door window. I can feel a little back and forth play in the quarter window assy. Could the problem be that the quarter window assy bolts are loose causing the whole assembly to shift? Looking for ideas. Thanks

wcnesta

 

I had the same problem. When I finally got around to looking at it I found the glass had come loose from the channel it mounts in, i.e. the urethane caulk that adheres the glass to the mechanism had lost adhesion. I used a 3m automix bedding compound but it's been discontinued, becoming difficult to find and requires a $80 caulking gun to apply. I'd suggest stopping by your local auto glass installer and asking about the repair and/or supplies.

Edit: Just found last of the cartridge, 3M 08641 (here: http://tinyurl.com/7b43lmu ) would still need mixing nozzle (~$2) and the gun (seeing online now $85 - $145.)

 

The glass does not seem to be loose. Could it be a stretched cable causing this problem? If that is possible, is there a way to get the slack out of the cable? When I manually pull the window up the 1/8" to get it to seal with the front window seal, it apparently stops at the adjustable window up stop which gives me a good seal, but if I put the window back down and then up again I get the same gap and have to give it a pull foreword again to make the seal with the front window. I am thinking that if the cable did stretch a little it should not effect this problem as the motor should continue to drive till it hits the up window stop. If the battery is disconnected do these quarter panel windows have to be reprogrammed like the front side windows? Any more advise out there? Hopefully someone has an easy fix for this problem.

 

It is non-intuitive, but the problem could be interference from misalignment or a loose bolt on the front door window mechanism. Might be worth removing the door panel and checking the adjustments. I came across this problem once on a customer's car.

 

I never had the impression mine was loose from the channel until I began removing the trim, etc. to look for an adjustment or stop. Not saying it's the only thing that could cause the problem, just what happened on mine.