Dear members,
Ive a 1997 XK8 running silently, having read the many threads regarding cam chain tensioners I decided to inspect mine. despite showing no signs indicating a fault, on removing cam covers 1st gen tensioners were both cracked, with one slipper missing.
Have decided to completly replace all chains and tensioners and while im at it deal with water pump and thermostate.
what i am unsure of is the best way to remove the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. I understand that I should not use the locking pin on converter to hold pulley. I dont want to use an air gun, or use a bar to lock flywheel.

Ive been thinking of making a tool that is tubular and fits/locks in to the slots of the pulley, with welded bars similar to a wheel wrench that could be held by the workshop floor or similar. this could lock the pulley, while a socket fits on the crank pulley nut.

Does anyone know of the correct procedure in removing the pulley?, and is a tool specifically designed to lock the pulley while it is released and indeed tightened?

Does anyone think the tool suggested above could work given some design work?. Ive read one thread somewere with a tool similar.

any suggestions or advice is appreciated.

thanks

steve

 

Heres a couple of links about the procedure
sounds like your planning on doing the whole front

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
primary-and-secondary-tensioner-replacement-xj-xk8-xkr.pdf

 

Steve:

I must of sent before finished
I guess the removal must be covered in those links somewhere
A friend of mine removed his ( on a crappy car ) using the blunt force trick
Put the socket and breaker bar on so that it rests on something solid like a concrete floor
crank car for a short burst
just have to make sure its going to turn the right way !!!
by the way i do not endorse this (haha)


howard

 

Hi Howard,want
thanks for the attachments, planning on leaving rad on so not sure if it will cope with a large extension bar flying arround if it goes wrong. the removal of this pulley seams to be a little difficult but there must be a method of holding the pulley whilst loosening the nut.

Good idear though if you just to move the pulley quickly.

thanks

steve

 

Take a look for posts by motorcarman IIRC he uses a chain wrench on the pulley.

Found one https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...locking-61037/

 

The pulley has 2 X 8mm tapped holes, you attach to this a large boss with a handle on it, this allows you to hold the crank still whilst undoing the crank pulley bolt..... You then remove the handle and fit the puller to the same holes, tighten up the bolt in the middle and with a hide mallet give the pulley a tap and it should release off its tapper...

I did do drawings of the full tool kit for the tensioners which I beleive were converted to PDF and may be in the FAQ section

I found a pic of the puller and holding tool




No need to remove the rad just the fan pack

 

Hi,
Thank you for the responses. ive got some idears from the attachments provided regarding tools to use to remove the balancer. the tool in the last post looks very good. is this a one off tool, or is it for sale. I am going to search for the drawings to see if I could get one made.

thanks to all.

steve

 

Check out the Sealey sites, cheap enough to buy but both the JEC and XKEC hire them out but of course you need to join the club.

 

You lucky devils.

 

Something to be careful of..... When you bolt the handle to the pulley becareful not to bolt it right through and too far out the other side, it will then proceed to going through the chest plate, if you go for the Sealey item the bolts are about 1/2" too long

 

I've just tried to remove the pulley/balancer from my 2000 Daimler X308 using the puller shown in the pic above. The puller bends in the centre because of the small amount of steel left after the thrust screw hole has been drilled out.
The original Jaguar puller is circular in shape, so doesn't bend. Is that my only choice or is there another way of getting the pulley off the crank?
Thanks for any advice

 

The puller should not bend???.... The only reason for the puller not to work is if you have not bolted it far enough onto the pulley and are pulling the threads through or the threads have stripped..... I did my XJR a couple of weeks ago, much easier than an XK.... Put as much tension on it as you dare..... Then smack it with a hide mallet, that often works

 

Done it that way, and by arranging the breaker bar properly while car was up on a hydraulic jack ... then dropping the car. The weight of the corner times the length of the bar equals torque developed. The crank was held by stuffing nylon rope down a sparkplug hole after arranging the engine such that the particular piston was on the compression stroke as the valves don't take kindly to being squished.

 

There is a lengthy thread that I started on this forum, but to make a long story short, my mechanic did it the old fashioned way by jamming the flywheel. He jacked up the right side of the car enough to crawl in there. This worked fine and no negatives since. Mine was different because my damper broke loose so that was the only way to get it done, since there was nothing to apply the special tool to, assuming I had one.

I think it is a good idea to put a new cone in when you put it back together. Mine broke so I assume that a previous owner had it off and tried to reuse the cone. This didn't work out and created a big mess. The cone is not too expensive.