Removing Sepang 20" wheels-difficult?
Anyone else have trouble getting the 20" Sepang wheels off a 2005 XKR?
I can't believe how difficult--is there a trick? Front or rear they seem almost pressed on.....if there's a flat on the road, forget getting them off.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
I can't believe how difficult--is there a trick? Front or rear they seem almost pressed on.....if there's a flat on the road, forget getting them off.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Loosen up your lugs, slightly a couple of turns, set back down off the jack. If that does'nt loosen them drive down the drive way a few feet then back. When you get them off clean and coat with anti seize paste before remounting. Good luck
I had all four Sepang wheels off, cleaned, Anti-Seized the contact area and refitted when I changed brake fluid in December.
When I came to remove the wheels again to check the brakes during a scheduled service yesterday, the LH rear was solid.
Never had this issue with the Impellars on my last XK8 so I checked exactly what was making it stick. The Sepang appears to be a very close fit on the lip of the hub where it slides into the back of the wheel. On mine, moisture and road dirt had built up with the inevitable bi-metallic reaction between aluminium and steel.
I've thoroughly cleaned the lip on the hub and the inside of the Sepang at the contact point and coated with Anti-Seize. This should prevent it happening again.
Incidentally, I use the Aluminium equivalent of Copper grease on the wheels so the grease doesn't show up on the inside of the wheels if there's any cast off. The Aluminium variety is marketed as 'Zeta Grease' and is available from Land Rover Dealers.
Graham
When I came to remove the wheels again to check the brakes during a scheduled service yesterday, the LH rear was solid.
Never had this issue with the Impellars on my last XK8 so I checked exactly what was making it stick. The Sepang appears to be a very close fit on the lip of the hub where it slides into the back of the wheel. On mine, moisture and road dirt had built up with the inevitable bi-metallic reaction between aluminium and steel.
I've thoroughly cleaned the lip on the hub and the inside of the Sepang at the contact point and coated with Anti-Seize. This should prevent it happening again.
Incidentally, I use the Aluminium equivalent of Copper grease on the wheels so the grease doesn't show up on the inside of the wheels if there's any cast off. The Aluminium variety is marketed as 'Zeta Grease' and is available from Land Rover Dealers.
Graham
I use Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant, available almost everywhere. It's silver in color also I don't know if it's Aluminum or not, but I've used it for the last 30 years on my British cars and it's worked for me.
Never a good idea to have a torch around expensive wheels---I've got Sepangs and just kept beating them with a rubber mallet until they came off. Then follow the ideas above to make it easier next time.
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Absolutely not! Heat could kill the finish on the face of the alloy.
If you can remove the centre cap, try a good spray with release oil where the hub meets the wheel:
Sepang R10Jx20.pdf
With the cap off, this area is easily accessible through the centre of the wheel. Release oil should free it up and then it's on to the rubber mallet treatment.
Graham
Had the same problem with mine the first time I took them off. Just clean them up and apply some anti seize/ grease, but under no circumstances use a torch!! Mine come off easy now, but they can be a real B#*ch.
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