I dragged a cloth with super glue on it across the trunk lid leaving a healthy streak on an otherwise perfect finish. The surface was well waxed but I suspect the compounds in Super Glue may have penetrated. Before going after the area with polishing compound I'm seeking the sage advice of my Forum mates. Any suggestions?

And yes. I'm an idiot.

 

Don't feel bad I did the same thing n my top just behind the quarter window, still have a white spot.

Good luck!

 

Finger nail polish remover (acetone) should remove superglue.

It should take off the wax, too, but the clearcoat should be safe if you wipe it on/off.

Try a little in a hidden surface to be safe.

 

Found this on YouTube, Good Luck.



I would use a plastic razor blade first, and try to scrape it from the surface of the trunk lid, any marks should only be wax deep, if any, and the slick nature of the wax should hopefully restrict the glues grip. If you do go the nail polish remover route, my sister gets the kind that has aloe and other moisturizers in the formula that may help keep it from stripping the wax. I would also use a Q-tip to make sure I only get it on the glue. I wonder if cold would have any effect on being able to shatter and scrape it with a plastic razor blade. Do those Compound W liquid nitrogen wart removal kits have the liquid nitrogen on a swab? If so it could be hovered over, or lightly applied to the surface of the glue to freeze it and chip it off with the plastic blade.

 

Nail polish remover will take the clear coat lacquer off as I found to my cost when trying to get the last streaks of some silicone off the paintwork

 

Canned air (computer duster) gets pretty cold. Us Texas are always using it on small hail dents.

 

Unfortunately, the super glue will also attack the clear coat. Wet sanding it starting with 600 and ending with 2000/2500, then polishing, is risky if you're not careful, but should work.

I have wet sanded scratches and orange peel on several cars without going through the clear coat. Worst case is that you have to sand the whole lid and have new clear coat applied. Not a big job, really.

 

Can you elaborate on this? Can this technique be used on small door dings? Under some specific lighting angles, the side of my car has a bunch is small dents, where the body is widest, presumably from parking neighbors. Thanks.

 

+1 on the wet sanding.
Take your time, light pressure.
Polishing compound afterwards, and you're good.

I did this once on my BMW. Was so nervous that I would ruin the paint.
Ended up being the shiniest part of the car

 

I used a $9 Harbor Freight Heat gun and canned air to work out a few small hail dents.


Hail denting is more round bottomed and less creased than door dings. A heat gun and pushing from the inside may work better for door dings.

 

Jandreau,

Good to know I'm not alone!

 

Thank you all for your suggestions. I'm a bit uncertain about the acetone laden fingernail polish remover, but as a last resort may give it a go. The compressed air is an interesting thought used in concert with the plastic razor blade. That may be my first attempt. I'm thinking the best result will be from wet sanding and polishing assuming lesser results with the air and razor blade. Thank you all again. I'll post the results.