Gus and I both pursued the splice kit problem extensively. I called the US engineering group at Parker (who makes the hose) and after some investigation they called me back and said there was no splice mechanism they could recommend. The problem is with the custom 363 hose that has an OD that doesn't match anything else. The fittings have to made to exactly fit the hose. The Jaguar splice kit was apparently made from parts that almost fit and therefore it almost holds the oil. The entire problem can be traced to the choice of hose by Power Packer. I can't specifically blame Jaguar for this but their subsequent avoidance of the issue, and refusal to correct the hose problem long after it was known, is especially irritating. Charging $3500 to put that splice in is incredible.

 

I'll be doing this in the next month or two... thanks for the info!

 

I received the pressure relief kit yesterday, so hopefully they are no longer back ordered. Will be installing today as soon as the golf tournament is over!

 

I received mine also. I'll be installing it with the help of a friend tomorrow morning.

May the force be with me.

Jack

 

My cat is a triple decker, so room is tight, but here goes! I'll post any complications. So far, undoing the back and side panels was easy. It's easier to take the side panel out if you pop the rear right tail light.

 

You have a problem and we will try to help!

 

Thanks Gus. I hope it is smooth sailing.

I am going to be real careful with the electrical connections and the hydraulic lines. Looks like those are the main ways I can mess it up.

Jack

 

Got the kit installed - my notes below to help BlackCat and anyone else trying it. I had the pics from Gus open on my iPad making it easy to follow.

Luckily I had a quick disconnect plug for the wire to the solenoids. However the black and white power plug did not pull apart - I inserted a small flat screwdriver into the slim side of the plug and it finally popped out.

Key areas to watch for:
1) Triple deck for the mount means a lot less room for a ratchet - need a small ratchet no bigger than 2" tall to remove the 2 T30 screws 2) my hoses were all clipped together with ties making access hard unless you cut the ties or work around them 2a) devilishly tight with a triple deck, have to scoot the unit up toward the front of the car before sliding the end out 3) the brass fitting (where line 1 goes) in the pump took an incredible amount of energy to take out (looked frozen) and holding the pump in one hand while turning with the other is the only leverage 4) I loosened the existing line to insert hose 1 but even then had to gently tap (horrors!) with a little hammer to get room 5) Gus's adapter kit is easy to install but the short hoses make the platic tie essential as otherwise the valve will not sit along the axis of the pump 5) inserting the whole thing back is a trial and error as the piggy back just makes the unit bigger 6) I made sure to add Pentosin to the right level 7) I connected the electrical and ran the top to make sure there were no leaks. Top works but slow - need to troubleshoot tomorrow.

 

Gus - I assumed that the valve you opened to relieve pressure (counter clock wise turn in your pic/notes) was reversed and pressurized before connecting the power?
Thanks

 

Yes that is correct. I need to update my procedure with closing that valve.

 

I had the same problem, and finally put the pump back on, hand tightened the mounting screws, and loosened the Torx-head plug with the pump in place.

So, here's another tip: Before removing the pump, and after relieving the pressure, put your T30 Torx bit on an extension and break the plug loose where hose #1 will be inserted. Don't remove the plug yet or you'll have a mess, but let the car back you up while you get past the initial resistance of the tight plug.

 

Good point and I will add it to me procedure.

 

I found the torx head fitting in the pump to be the more difficult one to undo. I assume that something like loctite was used on the threads. But the trickiest part with the 3-tier rack is getting the pump off the rack and then back on (with the valve installed). The tendency is to be as gentle as possible but, in fact, the pump and hoses are pretty robust so don't be afraid to use a little gentle persuading.


Doug

 

I agree with SeismicGuy - the hoses are tough so dont be hesitant to push and prod within reason

 

Larry - On the triple deck, there is no access to the plug while the pump is mounted on the rack. The only way is to take it out and then fight the glue they have in there.

 

A trick we use when servicing old product that has been sealed is to heat the area around the fitting so that the thread sealer becomes soft. This works with all sorts of glues, including epoxy. In this case a hot air gun with a nozzle (to keep the heat away from the hoses) would probably do the trick. You can test the exposed material to see when it goes soft.

We have a device that was originally sold as a plastic welder and it wasn't expensive. It might have been purchased from Harbor Freight. This device has an adjustable temperature and is invaluable for taking apart the stuff that was designed to never come apart.

 

Walt, I did not know that there was any thread sealer when I tried to remove the brass plug with the T30 bit. If I had I would have tried something to loosen it before I applied the pressure I did. It resulted in shearing off the bit in the plug leaving me dead in the water.

As I mentioned in another post, the pump is now at a machine shop where they will try to remove the sheared off bit and the plug. If this works I will install the pressure reduction device which I bought from your Company.

If it fails it my well destroy the pump leaving me with a big bill to replace it.

I did everything the instructions said to do.

Jack

 

Sorry to hear that. It's hard to tell by looking at it if there was a glue or that it was frozen. I used my set of extra hardened Torx bits and tried a number of times when it finally turned - the heat in Az probably had bust up the seal. The machine shop should be able to drive a counter bit and extract the bit and brass plug.

All the best.

 

I can not tell you how much I hope you are correct. It will save me a lot of aggro and $.

Jack

 

For what it's worth, as I posted in the other thread I have done 2 separate relief valve installs now (original pump plus replacement pump) and, while the torx fitting is tight, I was able to remove it for both pumps with steady but firm pressure on the ratchet.

Doug