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I think you may be getting confused between the pressure control resistor and the motor resistor.
Thanks, Norri. Just to clarify, there is no resistor inside the motor. What has failed is a component in there called a TVS. It's a cheap, easy fix. The link in Norri's post (same as the one in my sig. line below) lays it all out.
Thanks, Norri. Just to clarify, there is no resistor inside the motor. What has failed is a component in there called a TVS. It's a cheap, easy fix. The link in Norri's post (same as the one in my sig. line below) lays it all out.
Thanks Dennis077, I viewed that and it's a bit more then I feel i can handle thu. Can I just buy the motor and swap it out? I don't really want to change the whole pump, hydraulic fluid, prune lines, I don't have a garage to tear all that apart.
You don't need to dismantle anything other than the motor itself.
As Dennis caution be careful with the solenoid connectors as if they get damaged you have a problem.
You could then take the motor to someone for the repair.
"Remove the pump from its mounting (well documented on the forum) being careful not to damage the two solenoid connectors. Remove the four fasteners which attach the pump to the motor (hex or torx depending on MY). Open the motor power connector (if it wasn't done above). Pull straight back to separate the motor from the pump. Some hydraulic fluid may escape. No hose connections need to me disturbed.
Rotate the pump (not the motor) manually. If the action is smooth, there's no reason to think anything is wrong with the pump. As far as I know no pump failures have been reported on the forum, and anyway the pump needs to run for only something like 10 hours (600 raise/lower top cycles) throughout its entire life; it should not need a rebuild. From here on, we're concerned only with the motor."
It seems pretty straightforward, why not buy the part, take the motor out and let someone see it.
Replacing the TVS
If testing indicates that the TVS has failed, it must be replaced. The motor will run without a TVS, but replacing it is essential to protect the car's expensive electronics. The TVS is designated as type 1V5KE27CA and can usually be found on EBay and other sources. Price is typically less than $1.00 per unit, but you may have to buy more than one. At the time of this writing I have a few on hand, free for the asking. Please send email to the address shown at the top of this page.
From forum member 'Stamford' ... the motor with the TVS removed.
To replace a failed TVS:
- snip one or both leads from the failed TVS so as to remove it from the circuit.
- solder the replacement TVS between the black and white power wires. This can be done within the motor itself or externally, as shown in the photo below. If the TVS is soldered externally, place it as close as possible to the motor.
From forum member 'Stamford' ... replacement TVS soldered between black and white power wires, then wrapped with electrical tape.
Trying to find this resistor on eBay? There too many variations of this restor, 27v, 1500 watts ... or 10v, 250watts, and so on. What is the exact restor I need, need?
1v5ke27ca need more detail please?
Trying to find this resistor on eBay? There too many variations of this restor, 27v, 1500 watts ... or 10v, 250watts, and so on. What is the exact restor I need, need?
1v5ke27ca need more detail please?
The eBay listings are currently all out of the US, and eBay often points you to other parts which are wrong and have slightly different numbers which just causes confusion.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; May 11, 2018 at 06:44 PM.
Wow! As mentioned in this form it was really easy thanks to all of your support. As guided above with photos from scorekeeper, Dennis007 , the TVS came out easily. My next question is do I use the TVS mentioned in the form or do I go to the plug in line resistor sold by Marty Lunsford? What are your thoughts members of the plug/ inline resistor which reduces the load on the pump motor?
Having gone thru this process with you members I'd like to take a shot at what/how the tvs is/does.
Best way I can explain the tvs is almost like old school automobile fuse, but opposite technology if you will? The tvs is an open conductor between the two power sources but when there is a heavy load on pump (heat) basically because closes and causes the current to short and blow the fuse? Is this the right idea?
Again iam totally impressed by all your help and your patience with helping me. This, my friends, is why I'm a "car guy"
Richard.
Update, replaced the TVS. Reinstalled pump and new fuse. Worked perfectly.
A huge thank you for all your help.
Total cost was about $13.00 (mostly shipping cost).
Hi,
im new to this forum. But have read some exciting stuff.
I’m about to attempt to pullout the motor tomorrow which I’m led to believe has been the cause of the 40amp fuse to blow.
If I am to replace the TVS diode where is the best place to get it in Melbourne Australia?
would Jaycar have it?
thanks!
Thats the brilliant thing about these forums. Everyone is willing to help everyone else. Now sometime in the future someone is going to have the same problem and you can pop up and say the equivalent of 'I know the answer to that one'!
My view is that there is no such thing as a "stupid question" just not so obvious answers, until you know what that answer is of course.
So keep working on your car. Amas your knowledge and enlighten us when you can. Kudos to you for persevering and sorting it.
Hi,
im new to this forum. But have read some exciting stuff.
I’m about to attempt to pullout the motor tomorrow which I’m led to believe has been the cause of the 40amp fuse to blow.
If I am to replace the TVS diode where is the best place to get it in Melbourne Australia?
would Jaycar have it?
thanks!
hmmm... I had no such luck.
Got the motor working after replacing the TVS. The 40amp fuse didn’t blow (which is good).
However the roof still isn’t working.
When pressing roof down button, there a ping sound. The rear windows drop, but nothing else happens.
When push the roof up button, the front windows drop and I can hear the motor wind and nothing else moves.
I believe I’ve done the manual reset properly.
what else could it be...?
hmmmm.
I would suspect the relays. If I remember right, and I am no expert, there are some relays in the boot/trunk. Somewhere near the other relays that are In the shape of a T ? Will see if I can dig out a diagram.
Here you go.
Sorry about the size. I would take out the "Top up" relay and swap it for the "Top Down Relay". If the top now opens but will not close you know what the problems is?
