My Ebony XKR Conv arrived Friday, cant remeber being so excited since I waited for Father Christmas! Purchased it from ROB-NIC Equities on Montgomery TX, my first ebay purchase, and a bit scary doing it sight unseen. The seller was awesome sent extra pics when needed and appears to have been completely honest in describing the car.

Have to say it has far exceeded my expectations, no amount of pictures can succesfully coney the presence these cars have...brooding comes to mind. Performance wise, its not about raw power in the same way a Z06 might be, its really is like the feeling you get in a jet at take off, an immens wave of torque, God it's fantastic, and so refined. Guess I am smitten. Funny thing. Driving in town, its amazing how many people you see mouthing the word Jaguar!

I have to wait for my privilges to be granted before I post pics, but will in due course. To any of you who like me paruse the forum and havn't found your car yet....be patient for the trim, colour, options you want. It took me six months to find what I wanted.

So far, changed oil and filter, Mobil 15-w30 , adjusted throttle cable, fixed a few stone chips on the front valance. Have to fix the headrests, knda figured I would need to do that. Also, some of the accessory control are not terribly intuitive and you may think they dont work, this is one case where reading the book is a good idea.

Today it's snowing! Bugger!

Cheers all,
Andrew

 

Wops, I meant Mobil 1 5 w 30

 

Congrats! Shame about the snow but it'll only make it even better when you get the chance to drive it!

15w-30, I thought the correct oil for the R was ideally 0w-30 castrol but I could be wrong...

Well done anyway, I think you can still put pics up in your garage, I have and I only joined yesterday!

 

Happy days !!!!!!

I am sure you will get much enjoyment, just wait for that next summer to arrive

 

Cheers! The handbook calls for castrol 5w30, but I am partial to full synth products as I work for a national Mobil distributor. Mobil has a very robust additive package and the shear resistance with a syth base oil is exceptional, on top of all this we have close to 2 gallons of oil!

 

Welcome!

Just got my 02 black/black xkr Friday before last. Love the car. It passes my ultimate test - chicks dig it.

I think you will find the members of this board to be mature, knowledgeable, and helpful.

One of the things I like about this board is the willingness to discuss reasonably. So, I think we can discuss motor oils here without fear of conflagration, like there are on other boards.

I am partial to Mobil full synthetic motor oil, just because I think it is better for reasons I can't recall right now, and think that a few bucks extra per oil change is very cheap insurance.

Do you have a unique insider perspective? Noticed how I phrased that - to give you an out if you want it.

Thanks,

 

Congrats on your new XKR. I got my 2002 Quartz (gray) XKR Coupe about 6 weeks ago and I still can't believe I actually own such an amazingly beautiful engineering marvel. I looked for over a year before I found just what I wanted. Remember, a Jag is like a woman, she'll take good care of you as long as you don't ignore her.

Mark

 

Why Oil Goes Bad

Noria Corporation
Tags: industrial lubricants</Meta/Tags/industrial%20lubricants>
Machinery Lubrication (5/2008)</Magazine/Issue/Machinery%20Lubrication/5/2008>
I decided to write on this topic because I continually hear people say that oil
doesn't go bad, it just gets dirty. This implies that if you keep the oil clean, it
will last forever. This is not true. I am frequently dismayed to see how many people
simply don't change the oil in certain machines.
In general, all in-service lubricants will fail at some point. That being said,
there are numerous ways to manage the condition of a lubricating oil and extend its
life significantly. There are three primary causes that necessitate an oil change:
degradation of the base oil, depletion of additives and contamination. Some of these
conditions can be remediated, yet others cannot.
Base Oil Degradation
Base oil degradation may be the most common reason for oil failure. The most common
type of base oil failure is likely oxidation. When oil oxidizes, the primary
by-products are acid and insoluble materials, which can lead to serious surface
deposits and corrosive wear. To address this problem, most lubricants are formulated
with antioxidants, but they don't last forever.
Like many lubricant additives, oxidation inhibitors are used up as they perform
their intended function. Once these additives are consumed, the base oil begins to
oxidize. Many factors contribute to oxidation including heat, contaminants and base
oil quality. Oil temperature plays a large role in the rate of oxidation. For every
10-degree Celsius increase in oil temperature, the rate of oxidation doubles.
Contaminants also cause significant changes to the rate of oxidation, acting as
catalysts for the reaction or, in the case of air, providing one of the reagents.
Certain wear metals can dramatically increase the rate of this reaction, especially
in the presence of water.
The quality of the base oil used in the lubricant plays a role as well. Lower
quality base oils tend to contain more inherently unstable constituents such as
aromatics and other unsaturated hydrocarbons which more readily react with oxygen.
In addition to oxidation, base oils can fail due to thermal degradation, hydrolysis
and various chemical reactions with contaminants. While mineral base oils and
polyalphaolefins (PAO) have good hydrolytic stability, several types of synthetics
are prone to reacting with water, which forms corrosive acids.
While it may be impractical to forever prevent base oil from failing, we can
dramatically impact the oil's life by managing the influencing factors. Managing the
oil's temperature, selecting a good-quality base oil, monitoring antioxidant
concentration, and preventing or removing contamination goes a long way toward
extending the lubricant's service life.
Additive Depletion
Although many additives such as antioxidants enhance the properties of the base oil,
other additives perform functions the base oil cannot. Antiwear, extreme pressure,
detergents and dispersants are examples of such additives. Even if a lubricant's
base oil is in good condition, the lubricant can no longer perform all of its duties
when certain additives are depleted and, therefore, must be changed.
Additives are depleted by a number of different mechanisms. Water can react with
certain additives (hydrolysis), and also can attract and remove others (water
washing). Some additives are removed by particle contaminants (particle scrubbing),
and others are simply used up when performing their intended functions.
Once again, these processes cannot always be eliminated, but they can be minimized.
By using a well-chosen lubricant, maintaining proper oil temperature and controlling
contamination, we can prevent any unnecessary additive loss, thereby extending the
useful life of the lubricant.
It is possible to replace additives by draining and replacing a portion of the
sump's volume. This is typically referred to as sweetening the oil. Otherwise,
concentrated additives may be added to in-service oil under controlled conditions.
However, this type of re-additization requires a significant level of expertise and
may be cost-prohibitive for most systems.
Contamination
Many types of contaminants contribute to the degradation of lubricating oils, but
that's not the worst of it. Of course, we all know that contaminants such as
particles are responsible for the majority of mechanical wear in many machine
components. Because of this, we often change oil before it fails, simply to remove
the contamination.
For systems with no means of contamination removal, such as mechanical filters, this
is the only way to control contaminants and ensure proper lubricating conditions.
However, changing oil to remove contamination will be only partially effective, at
best. When the oil is changed in most machines, a significant portion of the old
contaminated oil is left behind.
Additionally, the new oil is likely to be contaminated already, unless it was
properly filtered before application. It is, therefore, more effective to prevent
contamination and/or have the means to remove it from the machine through the use of
good filtration, contamination exclusion and proper handling methods for new oil.
Extending the life of your lubricants, for the most part, is a worthwhile endeavor.
If you examine the cost of changing the oil in the average machine, you might be
shocked to see what you spend. The keys to achieving maximum life from lubricants
are proper selection, temperature management, good oil analysis and contamination
control.
Just remember to keep the oil clean, cool and dry.

 

An insider perspective! I recieved this article from an associate of mine at Petro-Canada, although the discussion is primarily concerned with an industrial application, it does speak to some important issues. Actually all of the issues exist to some degree in our engines along with the bi- products of combustion to boot. Thought you might enjoy it.
Cheers!
Very nice "100" by the way.

 

Happy safe driving ,congrats

 

Some damn fine information there, thanks. It always amazes me how advanced we are in our technology and understanding of how things work.

Just think how primitive old cars must have been. No warranty, no petrochemical chemistry, bias ply tires, drum brakes, no safety features, few convenience features. I don't know about you all, but I was born in 1965, and I still start the car with the the seat belt off and the door open. If it doesn't start, it's easier to get out and fix it that way!

 

Congratulations and welcome to the club. These are the finest cars and will certainly bring a smile to your face every time you put your foot down and launch to the sound of that supercharger spooling up!! As you know, you`ll find a wealth of info from this great forum. Good luck, and buy a radar detector!

 

Morning from the Black Hills, sun is out roads are dry, my daughter goes to daycare in the Jag today! I hear you on the old school mechanics, it wasn't all bad though. A couple of thoughts......

I was born in "63, so I can relate to the older cars too. When I was growing up in England often people kept their cars for much longer than they do today. They were simple comparatively speaking in so far as engine mgt system, they were certainly not as efficient. But! they were actually pretty bloody reliable, because they were under-stressed. That's part of the issue with modern engines, to get more from less, the internal stresses go up, shear increases, temps are higher, etc, etc, etc...

I restored a 1960 TR3 a few years back, fantastic little car. Old school tech, long stroke, low revs, lots of torque, like a tractor engine. Which it was! It used a Ferguson tractor block! It also used a pint of oil every 1000miles, which was normal, and I could fix most stuff under the bonnet with a hand-full of spanners and a pair of pliers. which was just as well. Its not they the older cars were unreliable, they just needed constant maintenance, points, plugs, tappets all had a habit of doing their own thing before very long. Thats the difference as I see it. Although our XKRs appreciate constant fettling, they are very consistent in what they deliver, and for the contemporary driver thats more appealing than piddling in the garage on the weekend.

Most if not all the guys and Ladies on this forum are true enthusiasts, who love to piddle. Because of that our modern cars will still be on the road in 20 years and worth a pretty penny I reckon.

 

Hey there--welcome aboard! We and our traveling friends took a trip to the Keystone area last year to see Mount Rushmore (of course) and the surrounding area. Beautiful scenery, the more so in your Jag.


Doug

 

Mobil One Full Synthetic with Mobil One filter performed over 100K simulated miles in a major filter manufacturer's Lab simulation - best result they ever achieved. - I saw the unpublished data. I'm not saying don't change your oil, but I am sharing what I use and why.

 

magnatec 5/30 does it for me and my jag..used the same on my s type

 

Couldn't agree more Naz, for me it comes down to documented performance and research, something Exxon Mobil certainly has funds to do. I see first hand how Mobil products perform in environments far more severe than our cars will ever experience. Mobil for me thanks!

 

I've run Mobil 1 since the day I bought my Jag. My Jeep gets the cheaper stuff though.

 

Grats!

I think the Ebony Black XK's are the most beautiful of the bunch... I hope you enjoy yours for many years!

 

Someone mention Oil...synthetic something, traditional dinosaur... i'll be watching