03 XK8 vert.

I’m seeing one drop of fluid leaking through the metal grate in the roof panel which houses the interior lighting. I believe that grate is part of the passenger occupancy sensor.

One drop shows up whether the roof is open or closed, but takes days to develop if the car isn’t driven. Driving in warm temps brings out one random drip about once per day.

I’m certain this is a leak around the latch system, likely a connector, and I know it’ll only get worse. Before I start ripping it apart, I’m tapping into the forum for suggestions on how to fix a latch leak.

Fun fact. The seller claimed to have replaced the hydraulic lines prior to sale. Pictures of the new pump and hoses in the trunk, but no pics of the latch area. At this point, I’m not surprised Everything the seller claimed to have fixed has had to be readdressed.

Seller is EspiritS1 on Bring a Trailer. He also owns European Motor Studio in Arizona. Buyer beware.

 

I bought a 1998 XK8 with obvious new latch hydraulic lines at the pump but had a leak at the latch dripping into the overhead console.

I pulled everything apart and found the actual latch cylinder leaking, hoses were fine. I had a spare that I sent to TOP HYDRAULICS years ago so I swapped in the new one.

NO MORE LEAKS.

 

I had the full green rain - not a slight weep.

Maybe prior owner skipped a full repair because there's more effort to fix the latch assembly.

Here are my notes: (2002 MY XK8) This is a full DIY replacement of hoses from Top Hydraulics. I also had the two lift cylinders and the latch mechanism rebuilt at Top Hydraulics for good measure.

Prices are from October 2014. Almost 10 years ago, and not a drip since!


---------Repair notes----------

Remove J gate cover & clean up
(remove J gate cover with a credit card or hotel key. Slide DOWN)
remove front seats
(remove side trim by pulling forwards)
remove trunk floor panels for access to battery
disconnect battery
remove floor console (Torx T30)
remove rear seat base (Metric 10mm)
remove rear seat back (Pozidriv #2)
remove rear seatbelt upper guides (Pozidriv #2)
remove rear quarter interior trim caps (Pozidriv #2 and 9mm socket)
remove convertible top straps (Fingers or trim lever)
remove rear side interior trim
remove rear brace / stiffeners (1/2" socket - very tight)
remove rear speakers (10mm socket)
remove plug in windshield frame for manual access to latch mechanism
8mm hex wrench - open latch
lower roof manually using ratchet straps to compress lift rams
disconnect front seat belt bar to move belts out of way (Torx T50)
disconnect rear seat belt lower bolt to belts out of way (Torx T50)
remove A post trim (Fingers)
remove sun visors (Pozidriv #2)
remove upper windshield trim (Held in by sun visor brackets)
remove header rail (Pozidriv #2)
remove latch mechanism assembly & seal hydraulic tubes in bag to prevent more mess (Torx)
raise roof manually
remove headlining from ram hinge bracket (Torx)
remove rams & seal hydraulic tubes with bag
lower roof for access
remove front driver's side kick panel
(pry out of sill trim finisher lift weather strip & pull back)
remove weather strip for access to hoses in A frame
raise roof
remove trunk front trim
remove trunk right side trim
remove hydraulic pump for access to hose fittings


On the bench
remove latch cylinder from latch assembly (be careful cycling the mechanism - hydraulic fluid may spurt out)

drain fluid from cylinders and clean / bag
pack lift rams and latch cylinder for shipping
$1015.00 new hoses and rebuilt cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Oregon
$22.00 new fluid - Pentosin CHF 11S Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid - Amazon

While waiting for rebuild:
clean everything on bench, on car, carpets etc


Re-assembly

On the bench
refit latch cylinder on latch assembly
copper grease on sliding parts
8mm hex wrench - manually open & close latch to test / lubricate

At the car
replace hydraulic hoses - pull through new ones by attaching to old

Note 1 - This procedure is one-at-a-time. When the car was assembled at the factory the supply and return lines are taped together and installed in pairs. The one-at-a-time procedure requires the tape and clips to be removed.

Note 2 - left cylinder hoses run behind the stiffening panel behind the rear seat back. Remove the latch fittings to lift the carpet trim out of the way to access to hoses, clips, tape. There is a large triangle foam grommet in the lower corner. Remove those for access also.

Note 3 - Lock latch cylinder lines run forward from pump to almost the right lower front seatbelt attachment. Then left on the floor just in front of the rear seat. Over the transmission tunnel, then forward on the left side of the tunnel. Then left in front of the driver's seat to the rocker / sill area. Then forward and up to the A posts. There are clips, tape and more clips throughout this area. Ideally the left carpet needs to be removed. That will most likley damage the 'XK8' finisher, so the lines need to be wrestled under the carpet, and clips tied by "feel". This is difficult.

Note 4 - Right bottom cylinder has odd fitting for cylinder: attach old spare line at pump end then pull through and connect new line inside car then pull back.

refit latch mechanism assembly connect hydraulic tubes / electrics
(Hydraulic tubes are 14mm at the tube, 12mm at the fitting)
refit header rail (two screws only at this time) Pozidriv #2
Connect zip ties and clips at a frame, under carpet and center floor console
refit rams & connect hydraulic tubes (electrical to right ram)
add fluid to hydraulic pump reservoir
refit hydraulic pump (Torx T30)
connect battery
test roof
cycle several times
inspect for leaks
check fluid level
Connect zip ties and clips at rear of car
replace triangle foam grommets
refit front driver's side kick panel
refit weather strip at driver's door / fuse panel access
while roof is up attach headlining to ram bracket
refit rear speakers (10mm)
test radio / CD
refit rear brace / stiffeners (1/2" - extra tight)
reconnect rear seat belt lower bolt (T50)
refit rear side interior trim
raise top
fasten convertible top headlining straps in place
lower roof
refit rear quarter interior trim caps (Pozidriv #2 and 9mm)
refit rear seat back (Pozidriv #2)
refit rear seatbelt upper guides to seat back (Pozidriv #2)
refit rear seat base (10mm)
reconnect front seat belt at upper bolt (T50)
reconnect front seat belt at lower bar (T50)
refit header rail outer hidden screws and plugs (Pozidriv #2)
refit upper windshield trim
refit sun visors (Pozidriv #2)
refit upper console
refit plug for manual access to latch mechanism
refit A post trim
refit floor console (Pozidriv #2)
refit J gate cover
refit gear knob (note 5/8 open ended wrench fitted well - slightly smaller than 16mm)
refit front seats (T40)
set clock
seat memory
radio stations
change roof system hydraulic fluid
refit trunk left side trim
refit trunk front trim
charge battery
fit trunk floor panels
refit overmats
Done!

Total time: 3 days
Total cost: $1037.00


Removing gear shift surround


Seats removed


Trunk access to hydraulic pump


Removing latch mechanism hoses


I lost a lot of fluid!


Getting hoses around fuse box area was tricky..


..but doable


Hydraulic connections at pump


Turned out perfect. The hydraulic fluid didn't stain the leather!


HTH, Dave

 

Wow Dave! What a write up.

Going to pull apart the latch mechanism and see what’s there. Hoping it’s an easy repair rather than a complete replacement of all hoses.

 

Great write up. Thanks for taking the time and sharing it.