As posted in another location, I have acquired a 2000 XK8 for free from a neighbor who gave it to me after it sat in storage for several years. Excellent body, and mechanicals are looking pretty good too so far.
-Drained the fuel tank and lines.
-New oil and filter
-Removed fuel injectors and sent off to "Injector RX" for thorough cleaning and performance check.
-Compression (cold engine) looks very good with 175 - 180 psi in all cylinders
-Spark Plugs look clean
- Minor coolant leak somewhere around thermostat housing, replacing the plastic with metal fittings in that area.
- Pulled the valve covers and what do you know, updated metal tensioners !!
Although this is a "Nikasil" engine, it appears that it is one of the good ones (survivor). New valve cover gaskets and seals, change rest of the fluids and filters, and I'll be ready to start her up as soon as I get the injectors back !

 

I always wished I had such neighbor, however, last time I checked, he had a Toyota Yaris .
Sweet for you though, let see the ride.

 

Looking good 64vette. I have my fingers crossed the rest of your inspections go just as well as they have so far.

And keep the updates coming.

 

damn, sounds great. Updated timing chain stuff. Car was taken care of at some point.
From what I have seen here if the "Nikasil" motor has made it this far and there is no damage, over heating, you are fairly certain to have one that will run for some time at this point.

 

I'll try again to post a photo, the procedure seems to be a bit different for every forum.


Looks like I need a new fuel injection crossover hose, but not sure how to replace it (or if I need to buy the entire assembly) has a crack in it so I don't trust it.


Here is the XK8 ...........fortunately the mice under the hood just used a bit of insulation to build their nests and did not touch any wiring.

 

How many miles is on the car? With that inject fuel line cross over you may want to just pull out the fuel rail and injectors and send it out to Injector RX to have that cross over done and have the injectors checked and cleaned. They will put all new orings on everything. At 100k a few of my injector bodies were cracked a hair. They put some type of glue on them to ensure they stay together. If you do this you will have to get orings for the regulator found on the front pass side of fuel rail. I thought I would be ok using the old ones. The minute I fired up the car it leaked. Jag did not have the ring for that, FORD DID. Also the pulsation dampers on the rails, if you have the rails sent out, they will pressure test the system, those dampers can leak. Mine did, that is why I sent mine out. They are supposed to help quiet the injector ticking. They just close them up, I hear no diff which them closed up.
If you do take off the rails and injectors, be VERY careful with plugs into the injectors, I broke off a few tabs that click to the injector on mine being to aggressive in taking them off. Seems not to be a big deal I just pushed mine on and they are staying in place months later, several miles later.
You could just take off the cross over and out on a nice gas line, that is all INJECTOR RX did to mine. For those that don't know, DON'T GRAB that cross over line by hand, the place that fixed mine says while it feels like rubber there is a plastic core to it, that snaps and gas leaks internally.

 

Wow!! Keep it up but watch for (re: financial) pitfalls...

 

Just got through removing all the coolant hoses, including the dreaded "octopus". As has been observed by others the Norma connectors would not come apart without destroying them, and by the looks were ready to fail (brittle and local corrosion deposits). Worked on a few different cars over the years, but certainly never seen one with so many hoses before! photo below (did I find them all ?).


https://www.jaguarforums.com/g/picture/4568571

 

on the passenger side valley hose where it goes back to the octopus hose, the connection pipe between them, there is a small *** hose off that pipe, did you get that? It runs up to the EGR of TB, I forget. Mine was bulged
up like 2x the size of orig shape. It was ready to burst. If I had not done my valley hoses I would have never seen it till it blew.

 

Yes, thanks got that one too. Replacing all the hoses and a new crossover as well as aluminum thermostat housing, new check valves as part of the hose assemblies, and a new tee fitting.. It seems all the old hoses have "bulged" to some degree.


I was surprised that the new OEM Valley Hoses look like they are too small a diameter for the fittings, however they do expand sufficiently when pushed on. Have decided to eliminate one Norma fitting on the end of the "Octopus" hose where it engages the valley hose pipe connection. The other Norma fitting where it engaged the plastic tee was in much better shape. I think the Valley connection suffers from "crevis corrosion" and perhaps some type of galvanic corrosion where the aluminum portion of the fitting fitting mates with the steel tube; at any rate the old one was in terrible shape and the plastic practically fell apart. Other reason is that the steel tube (new one is $60 +)has some pits in it that could cause o-ring sealing issues whereas a hose connection with a bit of "Indian Head" sealant will work fine.

 

Got it all buttoned up including the new headliner in place. Car is beautiful, I think this XK8 Coupe and my 64 Stingray Coupe are two equally great looking cars.


Started right up but (honestly, not unexpectedly) have six codes to work through. Easiest first fix is a bad coil. Trickier ones involve TPS, IAT, MAF, and system voltage malfunction (P0560) which may be influencing other codes. Need to verify full voltage to ECU, and go from there. Not quite as much useful information regarding actually solving DTC issues on this forum as I hoped, but once I get stumped I will start posting questions in case someone else has solved the same issue.

 

Great find - I'm envious.

Before you start trouble shooting, make sure you have a strong battery. Low voltage can cause spurious codes. I would make sure the battery is sound, clear the codes and start fresh. Work on them as they reappear. Most all codes have been discussed here. A search of error code # (i.e P0305, P1071, ...) will give a list of related threads.

Good luck.

 

The factory code guide is a good place to start. Look at the Possible Causes column here: http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...7_ECM_2000.pdf. Also search the forum for the specific Pxxxx code.

 

Thanks, I think the first to solve is the P0560 which indicates problems with power to the ECM. Also as mentioned above, although the battery is new it tops off at 12.5V and I am used to seeing 12.7V or more. I know my wife's BMW had numerous issues when her battery dropped off just a few tenths of a volt near end of life.


I saw that one forum member found the problem with power to the ECM was a break in a wire running in a bundle across the front of the car, so I hope my issue is easier to find. All of the connectors and wires are very clean, although retainers are brittle so I have had to zip tie some.

 

Cleaned all the ECM connectors again and reconnected. Changed out the bad coil and now all appears good. Engine runs very smoothly, and no DTC's or warning lights or "restricted performance" although several self tests have not yet run and I therefore need to complete all the appropriate "driving cycles" prior to smog check. This is a very nice car to drive so far and has better acceleration than anticipated. Guess I am officially a happy Jag owner now. Beautiful car (did I say that already ?).


Considering when I first started it up I had "restricted performance" P0102 (MAF low), P0112 (IAT low), P0560 Sys Voltage, P1224 (TOS out of range), P1230 (fuel pump lo spd), PENDING: P0301 (Cyl misfire), P0316 (Inj ckt), P351 (Coil A ckt); The fact that cleaning ECM connections and replacing the correctly identified bad coil eliminated all the DTC was a pleasant surprise.

 

Still have Catalyst and Evap not complete after multiple attempts at driving cycles and a couple of hundred miles of normal driving including steady cruise (not that I mind driving this car). No DTC except of course the P1000. Going to try new upstream Bosch O2 sensors. Also close inspection of the usual evap culprits. Ordered a AutoEnginuity with Jaguar enhanced interface so I'll play with that too. Worst case is that if I take it to a shop and they verify that they cannot identify any bad components, then I can get smog passed even with the P1000 DTC per the very latest CA BAR smog procedure which acknowledges many problems with incomplete monitors. There are universal CATS California approved for this application (Magnaflow 448005 for example) so if it turns out that the CATS are bad, I'll need to fire up my TIG welder, should be pretty straightforward to adapt the two right angle transitions from the old CATS and OEM CATS are absurdly expensive.

 

Success !


Although I had no Pcodes to help, the fact that EVAP would not complete led me to look at the related components. Turns out that the Purge Valve (located in the left side wheel well behind the liner) was bad. Also replaced the hard line and hose assembly back at the vent valve location (between the two carbon canisters) with a new upgraded assembly. Just took two short drives to then have all the monitors complete. For some reason the bad purge valve was keeping the other monitors from completing. So now I can enjoy driving the car rather than working on it for a while hopefully.


Total investment: ~$1000 for tires, another ~$1100 for parts, $550.00 for registration & penalties, and about 60 hours of my labor, also $228 for recovering Headliner and A pillars (I did R&R, local interior specialist applied the material)