Steering Column How-To
#1
02-14-2016, 11:21 PM
Steering Column How-To
I had put up with a balky steering wheel tilt function since I bought the car, but when the reach completely failed (with the wheel fully retracted) it was time to do something. I found an entire steering column for my year (used) at a reasonable price and finally got up the courage to make the swap. At the last minute, after going over the JTIS procedures I decided to just swap out the tilt and reach motors on my existing column. Sounds simple doesn’t it? HA!!!
First: the reason for just swapping the motors was that the manual didn’t call for removing the steering column and I was worried about disconnecting and reconnecting the steering shaft coupling.
Note: When I say “front” or “rear” it is relative to the car, not to your visual perspective.
Note: This was performed on an '03 XKR. I have the specific manual for that year as well.
1. Remove the lower dash panel as per Rev Sam, except it’s easier to grip the panel in the gap just below the steering wheel and pull from there.
2. Remove the lower steering wheel cover: Two screws from underneath and two recessed plastic clips on each side (four total). Be careful with these - they’ll break easily. Carefully insert something in between the halves toward the front end and pry the upper section outward. Remove the dim switch by removing the knob and unscrewing the single retaining screw. You can’t just unplug the tilt/reach switch because the connector release is “underneath” (smart-lol). Pinch the two retaining clips on both sides of the switch (be prepared to use a little force) and slide the switch out its hole. Now you can release the connector, snap switch back into place (spread the retaining clips) and place the cover aside.
3. The upper steering wheel cover can stay in place.
4. Now here comes the surprise. Nowhere in any of the instructions is there mention of a metal cross bar going across the footwell with a courtesy light in it (see photos). The bar isn’t going anywhere and you can’t lower the steering column with the light fixture installed. The fixture has those common curved spring clips that allow you just wriggle a fixture out, but they’re only on one side; the other side has a fixed lip. You must identify the side with the clips and pry that side down first. The connector is one of those with the metal wire spring running around it. It’s easier to release with the fixture out, but it still takes a little fiddling. You know the drill: pull the clip off, unplug, replace the clip.
5. The cross bar could also get fouled with the tilt motor, so take that off too. You’ll use a 4mm Allen wrench with some kind of leverage extension to break them loose – the bolts are in with Loctite.
6. Now you can remove the four nuts holding the column in place.
7. You then lift the steering wheel in order to pivot the front end down, clear of its bolts.
8. Unfortunately, the manual is wrong. You cannot lower the front of column enough to clear those bolts with the steering coupling (at the end of the column) connected.
9. Make sure the steering wheel is centered and locked with the tires straight ahead. Or better yet: Make sure the coupling’s bolt is on the bottom, facing to the right. But make sure you lock the steering wheel, so when you hook everything up it’s all back to the same.
10. Jack up the front left of the car, put in a jack stand, of course, remove the tire, and loosen the bolt on the lower steering shaft coupling just behind the rack. Spray some penetrating oil on the splines because they’ll be retracting into the lower coupling.
11. Loosen up the bolt on the coupling inside the car.
12. Now, I was expecting “some” resistance getting those 13 year old splines to slide into the lower coupling, but it was a real effort. I had to pound on the inside coupling for quite a while with a hammer and drift. Note: Push it back “just” far enough to squeeze it passed the the end of the steering column shaft. This will make relocating it easier for reassembly.
13. Make note of the location of all the connectors on the column and disconnect them all.
14. NOW, you can pivot the front end of the column low enough to clear the mounting bolts and then pull it rearward to clear the rear mounting bolts.
15. You should now be able to lower the column enough to access the reach motor, but again the manual is wrong. The cross bar will not allow the column to drop down low enough.
16. So wiggle and jiggle the column and just take it out the car, into your living room and set the steering wheel on your carpet with the column pointing up. Go get a beer and enjoy the comfortable environment.
17. The reach motor is only held in place by a tie-wrap. Make note of how the tie wrap is routed and cut it.
18. You’ll need to rotate and wiggle it a bit to get it out of its holder. The photos show why the function stopped on mine. The motor itself works fine, so if anyone needs one, PM me.
19. Because the reach position sensor is on the motor I took the time to make sure my column was extended the exact same amount as the donor column before installing the new motor. I don’t know if this was necessary, or what you would do if your replacement motor came separate. The manual is silent on this.
20. Installation was pretty much the reverse process except for reconnecting the coupling.
21. You only have a very small range of motion behind the inside coupling to swing your hammer and tap it back onto the shaft. I only got it to go on just so far doing this, so I went outside.
22. Now the shaft on the outside has nothing to pound on, so tightly latched a vise-grip onto it and pounded on that. I’m no sure it moved any further. So after quite a while of trying I just accepted what I had.
23. Torque both coupling bolts and the front column mount nuts to 19 ft-lbs. You’ll never get a torque wrench on the rear nuts, but it’s 19 ft-lbs too.
Along with swapping the motors, I installed two instrument illumination bulbs and replaced my sunlight sensor. All told, it took over nine hours – the vast majority of the time spent on the column. This is not for the faint-of-heart! However, EVERYTHING WORKS!.... and that’s nothing to sneeze at. ;-)
That leaves the one thing that worries me: The front end of the column’s shaft has two rows of splines. I was only able to engage one row. I’ll check out a friend’s ’05 XKR to see if his coupling engages both rows. If that’s the case, I may be forced to head to a dealer$hip. That sucks, but steering isn’t something I take many chances on.
First: the reason for just swapping the motors was that the manual didn’t call for removing the steering column and I was worried about disconnecting and reconnecting the steering shaft coupling.
Note: When I say “front” or “rear” it is relative to the car, not to your visual perspective.
Note: This was performed on an '03 XKR. I have the specific manual for that year as well.
1. Remove the lower dash panel as per Rev Sam, except it’s easier to grip the panel in the gap just below the steering wheel and pull from there.
2. Remove the lower steering wheel cover: Two screws from underneath and two recessed plastic clips on each side (four total). Be careful with these - they’ll break easily. Carefully insert something in between the halves toward the front end and pry the upper section outward. Remove the dim switch by removing the knob and unscrewing the single retaining screw. You can’t just unplug the tilt/reach switch because the connector release is “underneath” (smart-lol). Pinch the two retaining clips on both sides of the switch (be prepared to use a little force) and slide the switch out its hole. Now you can release the connector, snap switch back into place (spread the retaining clips) and place the cover aside.
3. The upper steering wheel cover can stay in place.
4. Now here comes the surprise. Nowhere in any of the instructions is there mention of a metal cross bar going across the footwell with a courtesy light in it (see photos). The bar isn’t going anywhere and you can’t lower the steering column with the light fixture installed. The fixture has those common curved spring clips that allow you just wriggle a fixture out, but they’re only on one side; the other side has a fixed lip. You must identify the side with the clips and pry that side down first. The connector is one of those with the metal wire spring running around it. It’s easier to release with the fixture out, but it still takes a little fiddling. You know the drill: pull the clip off, unplug, replace the clip.
5. The cross bar could also get fouled with the tilt motor, so take that off too. You’ll use a 4mm Allen wrench with some kind of leverage extension to break them loose – the bolts are in with Loctite.
6. Now you can remove the four nuts holding the column in place.
7. You then lift the steering wheel in order to pivot the front end down, clear of its bolts.
8. Unfortunately, the manual is wrong. You cannot lower the front of column enough to clear those bolts with the steering coupling (at the end of the column) connected.
9. Make sure the steering wheel is centered and locked with the tires straight ahead. Or better yet: Make sure the coupling’s bolt is on the bottom, facing to the right. But make sure you lock the steering wheel, so when you hook everything up it’s all back to the same.
10. Jack up the front left of the car, put in a jack stand, of course, remove the tire, and loosen the bolt on the lower steering shaft coupling just behind the rack. Spray some penetrating oil on the splines because they’ll be retracting into the lower coupling.
11. Loosen up the bolt on the coupling inside the car.
12. Now, I was expecting “some” resistance getting those 13 year old splines to slide into the lower coupling, but it was a real effort. I had to pound on the inside coupling for quite a while with a hammer and drift. Note: Push it back “just” far enough to squeeze it passed the the end of the steering column shaft. This will make relocating it easier for reassembly.
13. Make note of the location of all the connectors on the column and disconnect them all.
14. NOW, you can pivot the front end of the column low enough to clear the mounting bolts and then pull it rearward to clear the rear mounting bolts.
15. You should now be able to lower the column enough to access the reach motor, but again the manual is wrong. The cross bar will not allow the column to drop down low enough.
16. So wiggle and jiggle the column and just take it out the car, into your living room and set the steering wheel on your carpet with the column pointing up. Go get a beer and enjoy the comfortable environment.
17. The reach motor is only held in place by a tie-wrap. Make note of how the tie wrap is routed and cut it.
18. You’ll need to rotate and wiggle it a bit to get it out of its holder. The photos show why the function stopped on mine. The motor itself works fine, so if anyone needs one, PM me.
19. Because the reach position sensor is on the motor I took the time to make sure my column was extended the exact same amount as the donor column before installing the new motor. I don’t know if this was necessary, or what you would do if your replacement motor came separate. The manual is silent on this.
20. Installation was pretty much the reverse process except for reconnecting the coupling.
21. You only have a very small range of motion behind the inside coupling to swing your hammer and tap it back onto the shaft. I only got it to go on just so far doing this, so I went outside.
22. Now the shaft on the outside has nothing to pound on, so tightly latched a vise-grip onto it and pounded on that. I’m no sure it moved any further. So after quite a while of trying I just accepted what I had.
23. Torque both coupling bolts and the front column mount nuts to 19 ft-lbs. You’ll never get a torque wrench on the rear nuts, but it’s 19 ft-lbs too.
Along with swapping the motors, I installed two instrument illumination bulbs and replaced my sunlight sensor. All told, it took over nine hours – the vast majority of the time spent on the column. This is not for the faint-of-heart! However, EVERYTHING WORKS!.... and that’s nothing to sneeze at. ;-)
That leaves the one thing that worries me: The front end of the column’s shaft has two rows of splines. I was only able to engage one row. I’ll check out a friend’s ’05 XKR to see if his coupling engages both rows. If that’s the case, I may be forced to head to a dealer$hip. That sucks, but steering isn’t something I take many chances on.
Last edited by scardini1; 02-14-2016 at 11:24 PM.
#3
02-16-2016, 09:48 AM
Hi Charlie. If you ever do, don't hesitate to get in touch with me. Written instructions are fine, but a quick phone call can be priceless sometimes.
BTW: I need to correct something: If once you park your car and shut down the engine prior to the procedure, you have turn the steering wheel to get it to lock in place, you have placed the steering shaft in slight tension. So, once the coupling is disconnected, the shaft to the rack releases its tension with a tiny bit of rotation. Because I did not anticipate this, my steering wheel is slight off center when driving straight. So, back into the fray we will once again venture. Maybe I will figure out some way to engage that coupling better.
BTW: I need to correct something: If once you park your car and shut down the engine prior to the procedure, you have turn the steering wheel to get it to lock in place, you have placed the steering shaft in slight tension. So, once the coupling is disconnected, the shaft to the rack releases its tension with a tiny bit of rotation. Because I did not anticipate this, my steering wheel is slight off center when driving straight. So, back into the fray we will once again venture. Maybe I will figure out some way to engage that coupling better.