Greetings, Both my reach and tilt systems on my 1997 XK8 did not work when I acquired the car. After much anguish, research, and consideration, I was able to repair both problems without lowering the column or removing the steering wheel.

I have provided a rather step by step guide explaining the steps I took.

This guide is available under "Steering components" as a download PDF:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/38ea91..._MSN_W2011.pdf

I would appreciate feedback and will be pleased to answer questions

Best of luck!

Regards, Ken (Colquan1066)

 

Now that's a very detailed write up! Likely took more time to do the review than the actual job, well done.

While I don't have any issues with my tilt system I do think I have a worn joint in the tilt mechanism on the steering shaft. If my wheel is all the way up or down it's very solid however anywhere in between it has a little play, I can slightly move the wheel in the 11 o'clock direction and I get some vibration going over bumps which does not happen with the wheel fully up or down. I investigated and the joint in the cast housing which also holds the key switch appears to have some side play. In your pic of the "spare" steering column it's the round gold shaft just below the white connector coming from the key switch exciter ring.

Can you tell the following on your spare column:
1 - can the cast assembly be replaced without removing the complete steering shaft from the car
2 - if the one you have is in good shape and you no longer need OT would you be interested in selling it

 

Ken,

A great write-up. Worthy addition to the FAQ's.

Graham

 

Ken, Nice job! Question/suggestion about page 8:

"Manually rotate the tilt drive shaft in the same direction until you
reach mechanical stop then back it off slightly"

Maybe you forgot to mention: disconnect the wire harness from the tilt motor? Once you do that the tilt drive shaft can be turned with your fingers.

That's certainly true on my 1998. Its a world of difference rotating the shaft with the harness disconnected. If you agree it may help folks down the road.

John

 

Greetings, Thank you for the positive comments. I hope my article makes life easier for some!

Two folks have made specific comments and inquiries which deserve reply:

“Johnken” suggests that on page “8" I may have forgotten to mention disconnecting the wiring harness to the tilt motor. He also states that with the wiring harness disconnected he could turn the tilt drive shaft. Johnken makes mention that his car is a 1998 model.

On page “7" I speak of removing the wiring to the motor. However, on page “8” after I discuss using the joystick function to test the motor and electronics I fail to mention disconnecting the motor before proceeding.

My experience is limited to my 1997 and a used steering column allegedly removed from a car of the same year.

In my case both the tilt and drive motors are only powered during a move. They are typically not under power. My column relies on the tilt and reach column gearing as well as the gear head reduction units on the motors to hold position.

Examining my “spare” column this morning, with the tilt motor mounted and coupled to the tilt mechanism and no power applied to the motor I am unable to rotate the tilt drive shaft by hand.

Now it is entirely possible, and outside of my scope of empirical knowledge, that the tilt system was modified after the 1997 models to use a motor which maintains power on the windings to “lock” it in position - such as a stepper motor.

On my ’97 both motors are simple DC motors with gear reduction heads. With these motors it is nearly impossible to turn the output shaft by hand because of the gear arrangement within the gear head.

It may be of considerable value to our group for others with cars of later vintage to examine their systems and provide comment.

Thank you Johnken!

“Jandreu" inquires about replacing the cast tilt subassembly without removing the column. I don’t know, but it looks horrible!

First I suggest that Jandreu examine the underside of the column where the tilt drive shaft connects to the cast assembly. On the underside are two #30 Torx head screws that secure the relationship between the driven gear and the tilt position assembly. It is possible that those screws are loose. If they are, this may introduce “slope” into the tilt system. Jandreu mentions that if his wheel is in either position extreme it is stable, so it is possible that the securing plate, held in place by those screws, has relaxed out of position thus introducing gear play.

Examination of my spare column leads me to believe that the steering wheel “drive” shaft would have to be removed from the column to swap tilt mechanisms. It appears to be a single casting that supports the tilt system and connects to the reach lead screw.

On my spare column I can see the distal end of two screws connecting the tilt/reach component to the mount for the lead screw nut. That means that, at a minimum, the steering wheel “drive" shaft which connects to the steering wheel must be removed to gain access through “portholes” in the tilt/reach component to release the securing screws which fasten the lead screw mount to the tilt/reach component.

While it seems odd for me to mention that the steering drive shaft connects to the steering wheel I make mention because the steering drive shaft is composed of two splined pieces. It may be possible (I have no clue) to free the moveable (reach) steering wheel drive shaft then slide it out of the column. Next the lead screw mount must be freed for the tilt/reach component and then it may be possible to slide it out as an assembly leaving the lower shaft in place.

I think I would definitely get a steering column “study aid” to use for practice on this repair.

Thank you Jandreu!

 

Colquan, very nice write up. I have started a reach repair which I may never have begun without your "manual". I chose a slightly different method as my tilt mechanism is working swimingly, and I am a mechanical engineer. I chose a more mechanical solution and dropped the upper column. While somewhat daunting, once you have removed everything up to and including the crossmember simply unplugging the electrical connectors and removing those brackets allows easy access to the two column attachment nuts under the gauge display closest to the steering wheel. Once these, the two attachment nuts near the universal joint near the firewall and the bolt clamping the splined shaft near the firewall are removed the column can be removed. I marked the splined shaft first to aid in reassembly.

Once on the bench the broken reach cable is evident. While in the car, I confirmed my reach motor works electrically. I am concerned about the position sensor. When in the car nothing ever shut the motor off electrically. As I understand your write up the switch should limit the motor electrically. If the switch is not working the motor can drive the column to the mechanical limit and break the cable.

Colquan, can you direct me to the end of the motor with the position sensor? I suspect it is the brown end of the motor as viewed in figure 16 in your "manual". Also, if I am not understanding the position sensor correctly, would you be so kind as to enlighten me?

Thanks again or any help.

Cool site!

 

Hi "jralex". You are correct. The position sensor (resolver) is the brown plastic attachment on the motor opposite the gear head. It is comprised of a worm gear configuration driving a small 10K linear taper potentiometer (pot).

There are no limit switches in the position sensor.

As you know the Jaguar “features” steering wheel position memory as well as entry/exit positioning. The steering wheel position control module monitors the wiper voltage of the position sensor to stop movement at both travel extremes.

If all is working correctly the control module will detect a specific voltage level from the position sensor and stop travel before a mechanical limit is reached in the trim pot.

I worry that over time component value drift within the control module could shift the voltages at which the circuit stops motor travel, but I have no evidence to support this concern.

I suspect that the reach cable fatigues over time with repeated operation. I also suspect that the reach motor has sufficient torque to shred the reach drive cable if the motor continues to run after the lead screw as reached mechanical end of travel.

Free wheeling the motor with a bench supply it is easy to drive past the end of travel limits of the little position sensor pot.

During my learning curve I‘m certain I did that more than once and it appeared not to damage the pot, but I would not recommend that as a normal activity.

While I know you will know this It is important to mention: Using the control circuit of the car move the motor to an end of travel position where the electronics should stop the motor. It doesn’t matter which end you choose. Next, manually turning the reach cable, move the column to its matching mechanical end of travel and then back it off slightly.

Now align the square drive of the lead screw to the square drive of the motor. I believe moving the lead screw away from its mechanical stop to mate with the motor is the best choice so as to avoid the lead screw reaching a mechanical limit before the motor position sensor can tell the electronics to stop.

Hopefully this additional information will be of value. If I have failed to provide you the information you seek please let me know.

Warm regards,

Ken

Colquan1066

 

Let me add a little more. I Reread your post and I may not have fully answered your question. You could use a digital voltmeter and monitor the voltage on the trimpot wiper as you use the control to move the motor. I think the two stripped wires are the ends of the resistive element and the solid color wire is the wiper so you should see a change in voltage measuring from either stripped wire to the solid color wire. If that does not behave as expected you may well need a new position sensor. If that does seem correct that might point you toward the control module. Maybe this time I really answered your question. If not - please let me know! Regards, Ken (Colquan1066)

 

Ken, I believe you have answered my questions. After further testing the motor does in fact stop at each end. However after the motor stops at each extreme the joystick can make the motor continue to rotate in the same direction past the stop.

You are correct that the voltage between the solid and striped wires changes as the motor turns. The voltage does drop to a minimum at the stop. When you activate the joystick past the stop the voltage stays at the minimum.

Kind of weird to me. I would have expected the motor would not rotate past the minimum voltage. Possibly the module?

 

By the way Ken, a big thanks to your original post and the reply to my questions!

 

Hi "jralex", I wonder if you haven't hit on the reason, or at least a reason why the reach cable gets destroyed? Perhaps the ability to continue in the same, and therefore damaging direction, is a design flaw. I know I could cause over travel on the bench and thinking back I may have seen that in the car during my repair effort. I'm starting to think design flaw. Perhaps others can offer observations or deeper knowledge. Regards, Ken (Colquan1066)

 

I decided to reinstall the column with the new cable and the possible flaw. The system some stop at either extreme preventing the momentum from creating a mechanical jamb. I guess repeated overdrive could cause the cable to shear. For now I am happy to have both the tilt and telescoping functions working.

 

Dear Jag Enthusiasts,

I followed Ken's excellent instructions to replace the reach cable in my 2002 XKR and would like to share my experience for those who endeavor to undertake this challenging repair. On the other hand, I would greatly appreciate, if someone could share their experience regarding a possible jam of the tilt motor drive shaft that may have caused the reach cable in my car to disintegrate.

- The PDF (Reach and Tilt - A tale of two repairs - Ken P. Chalfant) describes on page 11: "The next step is to manually move the reach mechanism lead screw, using the
new reach cable". I found this to be very tough, in particular due to the tight space. Instead, I used an S3 square screwdriver bit with a coupling and a small wrench - see attached photo - to manually move the reach mechanism lead screw. This tool fits well within the available space.
- The reach motor worked fine after reinstallation, which took gentle nudging to snap into place.
- Regretfully, the reach cable started disintegrating again after I installed the tilt motor, which suggests that a jam in the tilt motor drive shaft
may have caused the initial disintegration of the reach cable.
- I neither removed the seat, nor the cross member, the duct work or the metal brackets for the electrical connectors.
- Beware: There are places in front of the firewall to loose small tools from where they cannot be retrieved.

Thanks,

Stefan

 

Hi Stefan, Thank you for your very kind words regarding my experience repairing the reach and tilt systems on my steering column. Regards, Ken

 

Hello Ken,

Do you have any experience with how to avoid a jam of the tilt motor drive shaft that may have caused the reach cable to be stressed?

Thanks,

Stefan

 

The reason the cable becomes damaged is because the reach position sensor is not calibrated OR is inop.

You cannot just replace the cable without telling the motor when to STOP.

Just shut the AUTO feature OFF and set the reach where you want it (THEN LEAVE IT ALONE) OR set the position sensor to STOP the motor BEFORE the mechanical stop is reached!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Great writeup. Could this be added to the 'Stickies'?

 

As I described, the reach motor worked fine after reinstallation. I followed Ken's instructions to ensure that the position sensor was calibrated. The steering wheel moved to the maximum and minimum position. However, it was only after reinstalling the tilt motor that the cable got strained.

Stefan

 

Dear JagLovers,

I would like to share another piece of experience when repairing the reach motor cable: Lubricating the tilt motor drive shaft with white Lithium grease helps to avoid jams of the reach motor function. Works like a charm now.

Thanks

Stefan

 

Hey Ken
Thanks a lot for this, the problem has just developed in my Jag.
Hopefully my mechanic can understand your instructions.