Strange Issue with Ignition
2003, XK8.
I keep battery tinder on her so battery is nice and full.
I opened up the door, all the interior lights came on.
Inserted key, turned and all the normal dash lights came on
turned the key to start and there was a pop and everything went dead.
I tried turning the key a few times and it was dead as door nail.
No dash lights, no interior lights nothing.
Then I heard a clicking sound, it was def at regular intervals. The click was every few seconds and then I noticed there is a faint red light on the oil pressure indicator and battery and slightly flashes on/off when the clicking sounds happens. It is not very bright.
After removing the key from the ignition entirely, the clicking sounds (and the faint red lights) continue to appear.
I had to remove the terminals off the battery to get it to stop. I didn't want to leave it like that in my garage of my home in case of fire.
Thoughts?
Relay?
I keep battery tinder on her so battery is nice and full.
I opened up the door, all the interior lights came on.
Inserted key, turned and all the normal dash lights came on
turned the key to start and there was a pop and everything went dead.
I tried turning the key a few times and it was dead as door nail.
No dash lights, no interior lights nothing.
Then I heard a clicking sound, it was def at regular intervals. The click was every few seconds and then I noticed there is a faint red light on the oil pressure indicator and battery and slightly flashes on/off when the clicking sounds happens. It is not very bright.
After removing the key from the ignition entirely, the clicking sounds (and the faint red lights) continue to appear.
I had to remove the terminals off the battery to get it to stop. I didn't want to leave it like that in my garage of my home in case of fire.
Thoughts?
Relay?
You have a bad connection somewhere. Start from the battery terminals, check and clean battery post, the ground strap to the chassis, the main fuses as Pistnbroke mentioned, and hopefully you do not need to go further......
Thank you everyone. I am going to confess I think it is a battery issue. I say this because:
1. I tried to load test the batter (w/o it being hooked up to the car) with a tester and the tester lost power and subsequent tests say, charge and retest.
2. When I pulled the battery out -- I can't even remember when I purchased this one so that right there tells me it is probably old. (going to put an actual date on the new one)
I am going to check fuses, and other goodies as well but I fully suspect it is the battery itself.
I'll update when I know for sure and I really really appreciate all of the feedback on this.
1. I tried to load test the batter (w/o it being hooked up to the car) with a tester and the tester lost power and subsequent tests say, charge and retest.
2. When I pulled the battery out -- I can't even remember when I purchased this one so that right there tells me it is probably old. (going to put an actual date on the new one)
I am going to check fuses, and other goodies as well but I fully suspect it is the battery itself.
I'll update when I know for sure and I really really appreciate all of the feedback on this.
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Your battery should have a four-digit date code on it somewhere. Usually a sticker on the top or side of the case, but it can also be embossed on the top of one of the terminals. The first two digits are the month and the last two digits are the year. So a code of 1018 means that the battery was manufactured in October 2018....
Update: Well, I didn't capture that before I traded the core in, but l suspect it is old just from the simple fact of where that battery came from. I have not gotten parts at that store in a long time (not convenient to get in and out of so I tend to only go there as last resort).
The new battery took care of everything. All seems normal again.
I did figure out what the popping sound was. There is a 15amp fuse for my CTEK battery tinder (attached to the pos terminal). That popped when I tried to start the car. Since that fuse is stand-alone (meaning it is not between the vehicle and battery but offset to itself) that means the battery shorted which popped the fuse. Replaced the fuse and the tinder is working again and all is fixed. I guess it was the popping sound that made me think something more was wrong, but gladly it was not.
Have a great weekend everyone!
The new battery took care of everything. All seems normal again.
I did figure out what the popping sound was. There is a 15amp fuse for my CTEK battery tinder (attached to the pos terminal). That popped when I tried to start the car. Since that fuse is stand-alone (meaning it is not between the vehicle and battery but offset to itself) that means the battery shorted which popped the fuse. Replaced the fuse and the tinder is working again and all is fixed. I guess it was the popping sound that made me think something more was wrong, but gladly it was not.
Have a great weekend everyone!
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