stuck removing throttle body elbow
#1
#2
I can see one clamp in the photo. Go to linnk below and go to post #6 for the method of releasing the clamp.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-clamps-89769/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-clamps-89769/
#4
Is this the connection you're talking about (just below the TB)? If it is, the only thing you can do is to just carefully force the plastic tube out of the brass fitting. Don't break the tube. Wedge a screw driver blade in-between the collar at its end and the TB to start leveraging it out. Place as much of the force on that collar if possible while pulling & wiggling the tube. It may not look like it, but the collar is a separate piece from the tube itself.
Jaguar used this stupid fitting that I've never seen anywhere else. I'm sure it made assembly a snap for them, but makes removal almost impossible for us. The tube is sealed within the brass fitting with a rubber O-ring (that is probably rock hard and useless by now - causing a vacuum leak), and the tube is locked in place with that plastic collar, that has one-way gripping flutes. There's no way I know of to release the flutes. That fluted collar may come out intact, allowing reassembly, and if you can figure out the right size O-ring, you can replace it from the inside of the elbow. But there are two other alternatives:
Once you get the elbow out and on a bench, you can force the brass part out and replace it. They are available, not that expensive, come with a new collar thing and have the O-ring installed. However, there is a brilliant fix to this listed somewhere in the forum that costs peanuts and takes just a few minutes. I did it when I replaced all my heater and valley hoses a few months ago. Find that write-up.
But in the meantime, here's the short of it: Get the brass thing out of the elbow. Mine had to be initially bashed out from inside the elbow until I could grip it from the outside. Buy a brass 3/8" compression fitting at HD, Ace? etc. Coat one side of the male threads with RTV and carefully thread one end of the fitting into the hole in the elbow. Trim the plastic tube to the proper length if necessary. Configure the tube with the cap and collet for the compression fitting. Insert it into the other end of the compression fitting. Tighten the cap and you're done. Amazing. Bonus: you can remove the tube in SECONDS next time!
Jaguar used this stupid fitting that I've never seen anywhere else. I'm sure it made assembly a snap for them, but makes removal almost impossible for us. The tube is sealed within the brass fitting with a rubber O-ring (that is probably rock hard and useless by now - causing a vacuum leak), and the tube is locked in place with that plastic collar, that has one-way gripping flutes. There's no way I know of to release the flutes. That fluted collar may come out intact, allowing reassembly, and if you can figure out the right size O-ring, you can replace it from the inside of the elbow. But there are two other alternatives:
Once you get the elbow out and on a bench, you can force the brass part out and replace it. They are available, not that expensive, come with a new collar thing and have the O-ring installed. However, there is a brilliant fix to this listed somewhere in the forum that costs peanuts and takes just a few minutes. I did it when I replaced all my heater and valley hoses a few months ago. Find that write-up.
But in the meantime, here's the short of it: Get the brass thing out of the elbow. Mine had to be initially bashed out from inside the elbow until I could grip it from the outside. Buy a brass 3/8" compression fitting at HD, Ace? etc. Coat one side of the male threads with RTV and carefully thread one end of the fitting into the hole in the elbow. Trim the plastic tube to the proper length if necessary. Configure the tube with the cap and collet for the compression fitting. Insert it into the other end of the compression fitting. Tighten the cap and you're done. Amazing. Bonus: you can remove the tube in SECONDS next time!
Last edited by scardini1; 09-12-2016 at 09:57 PM.
#5
Jaguar uses the same fitting on the X-Type brake vacuum line. You need to press the collar that's around the outside firmly against the throttle body and then gently rock the line and pull it out. Pushing the outer ring against the body will provide clearance but you still need to work out the debris that is making it stick. If you pry the outer ring out of the throttle body you will have to replace the brass insert and fitting.
#6
Thanks for that tip Vern. I'll tell you what though, I tried everything to get that tube out, even your trick. Nope - had to just yank the damn thing out. Once I saw the compression fitting fix, I new I could trash the OEM fitting. Good thing too - that O-Ring was hard as plastic and came out in pieces. I couldn't imagine that it was worth a damn for sealing.
This is what the compression fitting fix looks like installed. Nice
This is what the compression fitting fix looks like installed. Nice
#7
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#8
Post number 4 that plastic tube going into the TB is held on by a black round thing with teeth so when you push that tube into the brass pressed in pc it hold the tube in, hard as hall to pull out, when you do you will break the plastic hold down ring. Once it is off you will see a most likely black hard looking o-ring. It should be rubber, the kit to fix that I got from Jagbits, has the o-ring, black round hold the tube in pc and the brass fitting which you DON'T need. I just put the Oring back in the groove inside that brass thing and put the black hold down ring on the tube towards the end and pushed it into the TB, that's it. If you can see in the TB the end of the tube should JUST come the opening it is in looking at it from the inside of the TB, it should not be sticking way out into the TB.
#9
#10
Yes. My tube goes to a connector right at the side of the electronics housing and then runs back across the firewall to get to the brake vacuum booster. I don't know why there's such a difference between mine and DSP's when they're the exact same car. At least yours is an XK8, but I doubt that our systems would differ that much. Obviously, the shorter route, just over the elbow and straight to the booster would seem logical, other than the fact that I've already got a "Medusa's Hair Clippings" worth of plumbing on that side.
#12
Yes. My tube goes to a connector right at the side of the electronics housing and then runs back across the firewall to get to the brake vacuum booster. I don't know why there's such a difference between mine and DSP's when they're the exact same car. At least yours is an XK8, but I doubt that our systems would differ that much. Obviously, the shorter route, just over the elbow and straight to the booster would seem logical, other than the fact that I've already got a "Medusa's Hair Clippings" worth of plumbing on that side.
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