Since the roadtax increased with more than 50%, I am thinking to leave the car off the road for a whole season(+/- 1.5 years) from time to time.
Normally it goes of the road from December until April, to avoid the salt on the road. During that time I put it on a battery charger, inflate the tires to 3bar, to avoid flatspots. Every 3 weeks I start an move the car back and forward, let all the electrical systems work a bit, until the engine is properly warmed.
It is going very well like that.

Now for the longer period I am worrying about the fuel quality after a year. Specifically since we have E10 fuel now. So should or can I take measures to prevent possible problems in this area?
All advice is welcome.

 

There are additives like "Sta-bil" which promise to keep fuel useable for up to 24 months.

 

If it were my car I would be getting the wheels off the ground entirely and releasing the suspension from the weight of the car. Your coil springs and bushings will thank you for it with longer life. Also eliminates the need to over pressurize the tires.

What is the environment like where the car will be stored? Cold or hot? Damp or dry? Climate controlled?

What year/model do you have?

 

You are doing more harm than good by starting the engine while in storage. There is no need or benefit. Running the engine at idle even to normal coolant temp does not warm the oil driving off what ever water vapour has accumulated. The exhaust system also does not warm sufficiently and there is the potential for moisture to accumulate. Nothing else on the car (transmission, differential etc. warms at all) so your procedure is of no benefit to those components.

Lifting the car off it's wheels allows the suspension to 'dangle', putting the rubber bushings into severe torsion.

E10 fuel is a concern on older cars (pre-70s) that had open/vented fuel systems but not a concern on anything newer. I've stored cars for over 2 years with E10, no problem.

I would do the following

1) change the oil and filter
2) fill the car with fuel
3) disconnect the battery from the car and attach a tender.
4) inflate the tires to max indicated pressure- then push the car back and forth every few weeks if you believe flat spotting is an issue

If the car is to be stored in an environment where humidity and temperature fluctuates then surface corrosion can be an issue. Finding a low temp and low humidity storage location is of benefit.

 

Sorry but that is a stretch.

Any torsion would always be within expected limits of design. Using a scary adjective like "severe" doesn't make it so.

Compression set and creep from weight are more detrimental to rubber components than torsion within design limits.

 

I would never put away a car for a year or more. If I had no use for the car for that long a period of time, I would sell it. But that's just me....

 

As per GM design philosophy, the limits of design encompass momentary events in torsion, not long term deflection as would occur while in storage.

As per above, it's the lesser of two evils. Comparable to tires flat spotting; overnight vs 2 years.

 

I have mothballed cars for multiple years, so I hope that this advice helps you.

I am wary about using stands or blocks to elevate unit-body vehicles at jacking points as this is not an intended loading for the long term. If you wish to partially unload the suspension and fully unload the tires you can block as near as possible to where the control arms mount to the fixed members and then block under the control arms enough to lift the tires off the ground. You can take quite a large load off the suspension without it hanging which is probably better for the shocks.

Parking brake should be off, but cycled from time to time.

I recommend changing the oil to something synthetic (please don't attack here, there is a reason) that has extended drain interval qualities. I use Amsoil here in the states. The reason is that this type of oil has high acid neutralizing qualities and will prevent formation when moisture enters the engine. Change the oil and take a drive to the gas station for the final fill up.

Add two things a separation prevention for ethanol and a fuel stabilizer. Add some extra as it will do no harm. Fill with the highest quality premium AFTER adding the chemicals. Make sure that the tank cap is well sealed.

I strongly recommend before doing the preceding that you have the undercarriage and compartments sprayed with a rust-proofing oil. Concrete holds a large amount of moisture under the car. Since it is not going to be driven, there will not be airflow to dry things out occasionally. Before the rustproofing, I recommend thoroughly washing the undercarriage and compartments and driving for two weeks to make sure that everything is dry. Make sure that the rustproofing provider or you spray inside hidden areas such as rockers (rear especially) and behind fender liners.

There are two schools of thought here, but I recommend that the windows be lowered just a tiny bit. This should be too small for a mouse, but will allow some air exchange.

If you have access to electricity use a battery tender that cycles such as a CTEK. Do not disconnect the battery. Also, run two electronic ultrasonic rodent repellents. One should be placed under the engine compartment and the other inside the car or next to it.

I recommend starting the car when the weather is warm once a year or so. After idling for a few minutes increase RPM to 1500 to fully warm the engine while running the AC compressor. Pump the brakes a few times, hold the brakes and shift through the gears. At idle you can shift to drive and release the brake and let the rear wheels turn. DO NOT spin the wheels at speed above idle. This paragraph is optional and I have had good results without, but AC compressors need to be used and the extras here are a bonus.

I have stored cars in unheated, somewhat damp garages for five years and simply drove them out without problems at the end of storage.

It would be a good idea to liberally slather on leather conditioner everywhere and apply an appropriate product to the vinyl and plastics. Then cover the leather with a soft linen.

Good luck.

 

The car is an 2000 XK8 convertible.
The storage area is dry, vented but not heated.

 

I also would strongly consider selling if I were to store it for a year and a half. Over here in the states, depreciation alone with the registration fees and such would eat into the cost of storing something that is not used. I don't know anything about the road taxes over there though.

If you are storing long term, make sure the unit is rodent free. If you are not driving for that long a rodent inside the cabin or engine bay can do a lot of damage in a short period. If you are not sure about the rodent issue, at least throw out some baits/traps as precaution. I've seen rodent damage on other cars from sitting less than a week.

 

Thanks to all of you.
I learned that keaping it stored for a longer period is possible but not advisable.
I will find a way to put it on the road every year for the summer period.

 

I don't agree at all. Many vehicles get stored away for years and are none the worse for wear when they do come out for a ride. I have three.

Many posters are just repeating rumours they've read somewhere else but have no personal experience or are doing all sorts of things that have no value.

In the old car hobby, a year or two is nothing.

 

ditto, could not agree more. you could really leave the car outside in the backyard, just parking it and locking the doors. other than maybe the battery, in two years it would be fine, just dirty. outside has the benefits of regular atmospheric washing (rain) and air-flow to dry the car out occasionally. special steps are required as indoor or container storage removes a lot of the air-flow. i recommend the few steps above as it optimizes condition, they are easy and fast to do and if things change and two years turn into five, the car does not get damaged.

 

My E type has spent several periods of 2 to 4 years in storage and doesn't seem to have done it any harm.

 

I bought a Carcoon type inflatable bubble cover for mine - keeps the car dry and clean while in storage. Along with a ctek battery conditioner. I always start the engine and leave it running for 30 minutes once a month when in storage.

I understand the argument that its better to use these cars than store them, but sometimes its unavoidable. My car is 16 years old, has low mileage and looks immaculate. I really prefer it that way to one that has been used a lot more...

 

How does it keep the car dry?

 

As mentioned above, that does more harm than good. If you want to start it, then take it for a proper drive otherwise you will never burn off the condensation that forms in the oilways. If you can't give it a proper drive, don't start it.

 

it takes these cars a long time to warm up the oil even when driven, so it is definitely better to not perform the start and idle routine. i mothballed a car for twelve years and dismantled the engine immediately after without running it first. everything was nicely covered with oil and in fine condition. unless you are dumping water on the engine, it will not corrode internally from the ambient moisture. the only extra precautions could be some desiccant for the block, oil in the cylinders distributed by hand and blocking the air intake.

 

It self inflates, so it is constantly circulating fresh air. You can park the car inside wet and it will dry off.

 

Sorry, but I don't agree. There are a lot more parts to a car that need the excersise, but whatever works for you.