THE SECTION ON DEFEATING THE SRS LIGHT IS A TEMPORARY FIX TO GET A BRITISH MOT .iT IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR FINDING HE CAUSE OF SRS LIGHT IRREGULARITIES.

TESTING.
My car is 1997 and up to 1999 the cars had a simple air bag system ..Two front sensors and a Safe Arming and Firing device. No side sensors or under seat/setbelt connections.
It is easy to test and eliminate faults in the front sensors. You need a voltmeter with a continuity tester (buzzer). Put the bonnet (hood) into max opening by removing the gas struts. Check the body of each sensor is earthed . Probes to case and vehicle body Disconnect the connector to each sensor in turn and with one probe earthed one of the three pins should show an earth connection. Probe across the other two which should be connected. That is all you can do without trying to test the air bags themselves which I don't recommend.
DEFEATING THE SRS LIGHT.
Early models do not flash codes, it just stays on so that's an MOT fail. You have three choices to get it through. 1/fix the fault 2/ turn the light off permanently. 3/ fit timer to turn it off after about 4 seconds. If you do 2 print and take this with you.
Common mistakes made by MOT testers - Matters of Testing (blog.gov.uk)
I did option 3. You will need 2m of thin wire like in a house alarm system cable, 1m each red and black. You must be able to solder with a small soldering iron 1/16 in tip . The timer is.
DC 12V Delay Relay Shield NE555 Timer Switch Module, Adjustable 0 - 10 Second | eBay
First connect timer to 12v and adjust brass screw so it operates after about 4 seconds ( Blue light on timer comes on)
Remove the dash clocks .
Once you have the clocks out remove the rear white cover 6 Torx. Establish which is the main beam warning light. ( remove bulb and look through for the blue beam logo) To the right of the lamp holder you will see two larger soldered blobs , these are the SRS led joints. I did not take a picture but have drawn it below. Remember the SRS light is on the LHS as you are looking at the back of the instruments. You will see a track leaving the right hand blob of the SRS led and going away for about 1/2 in to another smaller solder blob. If you cut this track you will turn the light off ( option 2). If you intend to fit a timer cut the track with a scalpel and solder your thin wires to the large led blob and to the smaller one so that joining the wires will bridge the cut you just made. Do not let the solder touch anything else the tolerances are small. Use a lens or lupe to check your work . Refit the white cover and refit to the vehicle . With your two wires disconnected the SRS should not light at all . When connected the SRS should come ON.
With the timer disconnected check which of the three output terminals are connected. Your two new wire go to them .
Connect the timer to ignition live ..drivers side fuse box fuse 4 is a good choice and earth the other. Turn on ignition,SRS will come on and after 4 seconds the blue light on the timer will come ON and the SRS go OFF. I put the timer up the the left on top of the heater outlet. Thank you Mr MOT man.
If anyone takes a photo of the back of the board please post it and I will replace the drawing below.

 

Why not just fix the problem?

 

Well bladerunner we are only talking of a £3000 car whose life is as long as it MOT. I dont believe in spending money on an old car if I can avoid it . First how do you find the fault ? It wont flash to help you and from my tests I think the problem is in the computer built into the dash clocks rather than the SRS unit.
Cutting the Y/W ( thats the WL signal wire ) from the SRS unit makes no difference. Earthing it or giving it 12v makes no difference .Its like the WL and associated electronics in the clock unit has a mind of its own.
The car had a lot of problems when I bought it so we will see how we go with the next MOT