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Time for a New Water Pump

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  #1  
Old 12-03-2014, 03:14 PM
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Default Time for a New Water Pump

OK, .... Time to change the water pump. I don't like doing things more once (so why is that NEVER the case?! - lol). I'll be replacing the serpentine belts and pulleys plus at least the lower radiator hose.

Question: Are the idler and tensioner pulleys for the Super Charger belt the same as those for the main belt? Rock Auto didn't have a separate listing, so I just ordered the mains. But I can double up the order tonight if they "are" the same.

Anyone have a lead on an Upper Radiator Hose(s)? I could only find the lower. All parts need to be in place by the middle of next week. (Sorry for seeming lazy - my parts resources and references are on another computer). She goes into surgery on the 13th.

Jeez, but that lower hose is a piece of work (AND a chunk of change!). I've read about this hose you all call the Octopus - could it be any weirder?!

As Always: Thanks Guys!
 

Last edited by scardini1; 12-03-2014 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Grammar, of course.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:52 PM
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The SC belt and accessory drive belt are different widths. The SC belt is WIDER!!!!
The tensioner and idler are different.

bob gauff
 
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2014, 06:27 PM
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Appreciate it Bob. Thanks.

I just looked at the procedure to remove the radiator - figuring that would make things a bit easier under the bonnet. FORGET THAT!!! I'm surprised I don't have drain and disconnect the fuel tank as well.

Funny thing: Although the installation does discuss recharging the a/c system, it doesn't address the fact that some tranny fluid would be lost when the cooler lines were disconnected. Our "filled for life" tranny scares the crap out of me.
 
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:51 PM
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If the lines are 'capped' the fluid loss is minimal. The small amount of fluid in the cooler is not really going to change the gearbox fluid level either.

The fan assy removal might be more of a help. The radiator removal is NOT necessary for access to the front of the engine.

I leave the radiator in place even when I remove the timing chain cover. Plenty of room with the fans out of the way.

The water pump does not require removal of the fan assy but if you need the room..........

bob gauff
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:02 AM
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I was able to change the SC belt without removing the fans, but just BARELY. I was not able to get the belt behind the tensioner and had to loosen it a bit, which is a tight fit.

One thing to check is whether your SC belt has been "upgraded" to the double sided belt.
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:19 PM
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The double sided belt has grooves on "both" sides? That would be odd.
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 10:04 PM
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Odd indeed but it was a "fix" for the chirping SC belt problem. It mostly didn't work.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:41 AM
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woah! hold up, prepare for a serious fight!
This job was similar to a visit to hell and back and nothing short of it / ohh you have the XKR like I do!.

I just went through this,how very unpleasant of a job this was .

Put a blanket on the fender you are at(you will be going from one to the other) and prepare to lay down on top of the engine or remove your bonnet if you have a bad back.

1.SUPERCHARGER TENSIONER PULLEY(BIG GUY) PART NUMBER 231048 AUTOZONE. This is a normal threaded bolt, loosen=loosen,tighten=tighten.

2.MAIN BELT TENSIONER PULLEY 231016 Autozone.BEWARE, the bolt is reverse threaded, with loc tite, loosen=tighten, tighten=loosen, get my drift?

3.OEM/Serpentine belt tensioner tool 27115 at AutoZone.com - 4 reviews is the tool I used to remove and install each belt, since there is little space,its the best tool you'll ever buy, so please get one.

4.When removing the water pump only remove the 8mm bolts! the two 10mm bolts hold the FACE of the pump to the Adapter,do not touch them,as the new pumps have this 2nd piece attached to the pump(get my drift, and NO these 2 10MM bolts DO NOT thread into the engine).

After all 8mm bolts are off, you may have to pry it out, and CLEAN THE FACE OF THE ENGINE VERY WELL,OLD GASKET MATERIAL WILL BE THERE, AND CORROSION.

5.The fan removal is HARSH,the connector on the driver side will need a long tool maybe a pry bar,the passenger, just your hand with some strength.Both of mine required a prybar and knock of a sledge hammer!

Then on each side there are 2 copper nuts, simply remove them, pull up on the fans, disconnecting the plastic zip ties holding little stuff to them.
And using a lot of force and maneuvers.

Now,once they are out, they will not want to go back it at all.

What I did was cut the fan shroud at the bottom, flush to the mounting tabs, so It no longer interfered with oil lines and all that crap(the way jaguar should of produced this darn thing). Use a grinder or wood cutting board/saw ,takes under a minute. The fans will mount as usual,don't cut the mounting tabs lol and your good.

That's at.
 

Last edited by aode06; 12-06-2014 at 04:47 AM.
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