help! i pulled valve covers off my 99 xk8,to change tensioners and from pictures and discription of linning up the cam flats mine don"t.has anyone ever run into this?when one cam is lined up the other is off by around 4 or 6 degree"s.i had to put in a new spark plug coil last summer,and had to use one for a 2000 engine.its a california car,even though it wouldn"t matter.as a last resort i could build an offset tool to hold in place,but what give"s.i"ll take any advice i can get

 

Because of the pressure of the valve springs on the cam lobes the normal, at rest, position of the flats are off a few degrees. That is why you need the cam lock tools to set the timing. The sprocket to exhaust cam connection is an infinitely variable Morris Taper type and must be locked down with the flats parallel.

 

thanks bunch,i"m used to 60"s&70s chrysler 300"s of which i have three convertable"s[i do restorations as a retirement hobby].i try to stay away from late model repairs on anything,even though i replaced my fuel pump[ugh] last summer,it left me stranded 90 miles from home.even still great car ,second jag iv"e owened,first xj6 and now xk8 coupe.took almost two years too find color combo,its poetry in motion

 

Well, welcome to the Wonderful World of Jaguar!

I have restored several cars over the years, basically on my own. The new world of the internet and specialty forums are unbelievable. I know my grand kids will assume that the world was always this way but it wasn't.

Ask and someone will chime in with an opinion, if not the answer. This forum is like having your car club meet at your house every day you choose to work on your car.

 

this is me, Chiming in with an opinion. It's guys like test point that make forums the valuable source that the are. Without guys like him, we are still in the dark ages. so on that note. Thanks!

 

You may have to wiggle around one cam or the other while tightning down the sucking down the cam lock tool. I would advice not doing it without this tool as once the chains are released the cams can rotate freely.

 

loosen the cams with the crank sensor opening lined up with the oblong hole. lock the cams that are flat. If they are both out why? did the tensioner shoes come apart? ( the plastic shoes on the tensioners) Loosen the sprockets and with a pair of channels locks or open end wrench on the cam bosses(squared areas on the cam shaft to rotate) turn till the cam flats are even and lock them down.
if the shoes ever do come off and go between the cain and sprockets, replace the chains! Theyre streatched and will eventually break. replace tensioner and before you tighten the sprockets pull the grenade pins to get the chain slack on the correct side. failure to do this will make the cams off a few degrees when you start the engine

 

there is also a lock down tool for the crank that replaces the crank sensor.

 

thanks guys,i cranked the engine to one flat and reversed rotation till other flat evened out.however i was supprised too find no keyway or anything of that sort [other than 70 ft pound bolt] to hold in place

 

Based on the info found here I just completed the upper tensioner replacement on my 2001 XK8. Thanks for your help everyone.

The variable valve timing device will allow you to adjust your flat-to-flat if they are off a little. I found the new tensioners made the engine seem quieter, but it might be wishful thinking.

Yes you absolutely need the cam tool for locking down the flats. I considered making one, but they can be found for $100 so why bother.

Get the parts for the Lincoln LS as they cost less...same engine...same parts. Give yourself 8 hours to do everything at a relaxed pace.

 

this is NOT the correct thing to do. Youre gonna end up with slack on the wrong side and timing being off. The most important thing is turn the engine in correct rotation till the crank sensor and flexplate hole line up and can be locked. then lock the cams, if both banks are not lined up, or close. rotate another revolution, youre 180* OUT. Then lock the cams, if the cams flats are not even, loosen the sprockets and turn the cams that off till its flat is even with the other and lock them down. Now replace the tensioners keeping the slack on the plunger side. If you pull the pins out before you tighten the sprockets and VVTS you will have the slack on the correct side.

 

The problems I have encountered so far:
1. The fly wheel did not have the embossed triangle on it, so it made it hard to find out where, exactly, the crank lock would be placed (if I could ever get the sensor out).
2. The crank sensor is attached to the bell housing with something other than a hex head bolt. Most likely a star key, since an allen wrench wouldn't fit. Couldn't see because of the steering components, which also will make getting to it difficult.
3. Not sure of the normal rotation of the motor.
4. The JTIS cd doesn't accurately reflect the reality of my particular engine (for instance the triangle and the lack of a hex head bolt holding the crank sensor). Looks like the tranny has been separated before since there look to be scratches on the torque converter.
5. Doing it by myself - with lack of the proper tools, I need an extra hand or two (or maybe another person to help) when tightening the secondary chain sprockets bolts.
6. Trying to find the proper tools locally (I can't - yet).

Something tells me I am going to have to wait another 2 weeks after I order the tools off eBay.

 

You can rent the tools for $50 from Continental imports.

 

Also maxperformancecars.com has a loaner program that I used. It's under Max Stuff. Another good source of info, although a glitch knocked out alot of the older posts. Anyway, just do as Brutal says and get it right. Doesn't take alot of tools, just time and patience. Oh, and if you try to loosen that cam bolt by hitting your wrench with a BFH, just remember to remove the oil control solenoid first in case you miss. If I had to do it again, I think a breaker bar is better.
Mike