Several years ago I made a 3/8 spacer for my 97 from a plastic cutting board. That worked well. The drawing was supplied by another member and is somewhere in the forum history.

 

I do remember that well and had thoughts at first of doing the large donut out of such a piece.
The one I showed a link too was a rubber one (well Poly) and with the slots could be installed by just dropping the three nuts off the top and push down on the suspension.
Shouldn't take a lot to get it in place with a screwdriver from the top. Just another idea coming from the members to add to what can be done. Might make one tomorrow, looks like the morning golf is going to be out.
Now if we knew as much about the electrical parts ( me in particular), we'd be in good shape. LOL
Thanks for chiming in RJ, we need all the help we can get.

 

Wayne, just to be clear, my comment wasn't a criticism but my expression of amazement. This is just one small part of the car and has generated so much discussion (all good) and work it's boggling.
Keep up the good work and look forward to learning more from all especially Dr. Gian. TM

 

A few threads back I was talking about a pad that big trucks use to obtain a bit more clearance.
Since no one even makes a 6 inch spring pad, no way were they going to have one like we need.
Being a part that would be classified as part of the tower, I thought I would include it in the efforts and if you have a bit of a sagging spring, this might just put your chamber more in spec's.
Easy enough to make, (my secrets again), 1/4 inch sheet 1000 PSI rubber (poly), cut to 6 inch round, inside hole 2 1/5 inches and the three holes 1/4 inch centered after marking with the top. I was lucky and had one out of the car. You don't have to make it as pretty as I did, not required to work.
Now if you have the mounts out, just slide it over the top, like the first couple of pictures, if not, take the nuts off the bell and leave a couple of threads on there and push the suspension down, like the cut out area on the other picture. Might get away without having to take the tire off, but surely will need to jack it up.
The only proof we have this might be good is, it works on trucks, so an idea we found in the ever ending search.

Sure doe look like it would be stable, big benefit, it would help with the raised rivets. OH WeLL, always thinking.

This is the one with slots. Surely it will fold into the space between the inner fender and top of the bell.

I like it, may put this set on mine, I'm a little low in the fender arch to center of wheel range.

 

I like it.
wj

 

Do you know what the Shore is on that material Wayne?

 

I'm jumping onto this thread as I'm going to start now my front suspension work. This is the view of the front left shock mount. I didn't take measurements with a measuring tape but I can get three finger widths under each tire front right, rear right, rear left (Top of wheel arch to top of tire). I can only get one finger under the wheel well of the front left driver side. The shock mount in and of itself looks deteriorated but not completely blown out. The camber is way off on the front left wheel. I very much appreciate all of the information and collaboration on this project for these pesky shock mounts :-) thanks to all in advance

 

OldMatelots, it'a 70A and 1000 PSI.
I got one sheet to give it a try and it took about a hour. More time to set up the cutter, center things and keep the area clean.

 

I'm back, LOL
Couple of things have reared their ugly head and the above spacer may help. We will know as soon as Kelly can get one installed on one side that is low by 1/4 inch.
Now, I will have to give you some information that may help with what will be some final results that may confuse you.
We have had different results with the height of the center of the wheel to the top ache of the fender. Each car seems to be different but the main problem with lower readings is spring wear or relaxing. The standard measurement is between 15 1/4 to 15 7/8's inch and even came out of the factory with a 1/2 inch difference. Main thing is the chamber being right for your particular car.
That said, we can improve the stance with new mounts if yours are worn flat, but we cannot correct a spring fault. I have made a 1/4 inch spacer that can up the measurement between a 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch and feel it can help bring the chamber closer to spec's. If need be, I will send them out with the mounts if individuals are getting very low readings before any work is done. These will not be a cure all, but will help to get the chamber within spec's to prevent tire wear on the inside. If springs are just worn out, sorry, but mounts and spacers will not fix it.
The good news is the spacer can be installed without taking the strut out. With luck, it can be inserted from the top, if not, take the three nuts off at the top and take the lower shock bolt out and it will drop down enough to stick it on the top of the bell.
I hope this will give you a better understanding of what we are looking for after any install of mounts, mine or your choice.
All the information is there to make these mounts or spacers and that is the way to go for the DIY'er, just always make sure to get rid of the sharp edges on the bells, awful.
OH, lowering springs are a completely different animal and for another purpose entirely and require some thought to get the car to ride flat on the tires.

 

Install of the New Design mounts are complete. After a overnight set and 10 mile trip over semi rough paved roads, the ride height appears to have settled at 15 3/8". Prior to replacement, the undamaged left front welsh mount side measure 15 5/8". Wayne to send the 1/4" spacers for me to try. My Suplex springs are less than 2 years old and should not have sagged. The 15 5/8" spec. provided even tire wear on the last front set of Conti. Ext. Contact DWS. New series of Ext. Cont. DWS06 installed since other tires (late 2013) were 8 yrs. old. Will advise after the spacers installed and some miles accumulated. The car feels solid and drives great.

 

Good luck and keep us posted....

 

Same bus, different seat......I was wondering if there were any updates available on how the first prototype mounts are holding up for Gian? Mileage to date, shock rod staying central, ride heights staying even and stable, NVH, etc., etc.

 

I will have an update by Sunday. Last week I took the clinical skills portion of the CITA ADEX exam and still have the diagnostics skills portion for this Friday. After that I will have the time to remove the wheels and take pictures and measurements to provide an update.

 

Found this this morning,....., special order....

https://mossmotors.com/jaguar-xk8-xk...ing-assemblies

 

I spoke with a tech at Moss, he said they probably get these from the usual sources that are currently on the market; my bad

 

Boy looking at those images would give me pause as the centers are WAY OFF center even before installing them. Can’t image them lasting long.

 

I wonder what feature of these mounts, Moss feels, warranted an 'upgraded' description?

 

Hi Wayne,

Upon reading all your posts here, seems you have done a lot of research and prototyping. Thank you for doing this and sharing.

I did note your comment, although a bit confusing, that the oem and some aftermarket replacement parts are ok. Are they "ok" but not as good as perhaps the parts should be? I am a bit confused. Some parts of the front suspension on my 1998 XK8 are in need of replacement. My thinking is I'd be best off to replace all the bushings, ball joints, springs, shocks and shock mounts all at once in order to avoid visiting the suspension again. I am not much at making parts but I can (with help) replace them. Related to the shock mounts, springs and suspension bushings, are there brands P/N's that you feel are better than others?

Thank you for your thoughts.

 

In general, I think using OEM parts is a good idea. I used Welsh top mounts on my 06, and after 10K mi and three years one of them has slipped off center, but it is not disintegrating. Wayne has done a lot of work developing new top mount bushings, and I hope they prove durable, but we all understand that the necessary miles and years are necessary before total success can be claimed.

One of the problems we face is that OEM parts are not guaranteed to be identical to the originals in material, and new old stock (NOS) rubber and electronic parts are definitely becoming old and fragile.

 

Becky, I do understand your confusion and let me assure you we all are in the same boat, as some cars last with Welsh and others URO, originals have given great service.
More confused? The parts that the shock mounts are made from have there own set of flaws, sharp edges, crowned pop rivets and will cut the bushings in half, some quicker than others.
I do agree, do it all at one time and after we get a few more results, you might want to talk to me. As for making parts, I have as much time in it trying to find them as making jigs to hold round parts in place for cutting and drilling. Lots of fun.
I think we are on to something.