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So, it looks like these are in my future. This job started out as a thermo tower upgrade & A/C condenser replace, but it's growing like Topsy. No weeps or leaks anywhere.
Has anyone replaced theirs? If so, can it be done without a lift? I can't find anything in searches other than for the S-Type and XJ8.
I don't want to surrender to farming the job out, but neither do I want to get stuck part way through and end up with an immobilised car.
I'm minded to defer this until winter, but any pointers gratefully received.
I don't know how hard it is to do yours but I assume you are RHD so you don't deal with the steering like we do. I replaced a line on friends XJ8 using steel braided lines. I did it with jack stands and took about an hour I think after I got the parts. I think I had about $80 in parts. I know a lot of thinking but I did it 6 months ago.
watch out when you disconnect them from the cooler. The cooler is ali and has a habit of picking up on the union nut of the hose. If its bad enough, could mean a new radiator assembly. I managed to salvage mine with a pair of M20 x 1.5mm male to female couplers off ebay and I used one to make a thread chaser. If there is enough thread there is room to screw on the adapter using copious amounts of loctite hydraulic sealer. Then it shouldn't give you any issues ever again.
Thanks, folks.
I guess not many have attempted this repair. The return line that goes across the top of the transmission looks to be a nightmare to get at.
Bob, I was thinking of a repair as the rubber/ali joins don't look particularly well engineered, although still intact (for the moment) after 19 years so they must be better than they look.
I can't see enough detail in your pics to make out how they're joined. There is a company here somewhere that makes up hydraulic lines so I'll drop by and ask their advice.
Phanc, I already have the radiator out to get at the condenser. Luckily the large union nuts came loose without issue. I can see where problems might arise mind: large nuts must = large torque. In practice there's an O-ring seal on the end of the pipe so it's only necessary to nip up gently. No torque figure in JTIS.
Mike, the type of fittings I used are what we use on racecars for oil cooler lines, fuel lines, venting, and other uses. The advantage with this is you can make the lines yourself and don't need to go to a hydrologic shop to have the lines made. You can make it any length needed. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself then the hydrologic shop would be a good alternative.
Good luck, Bob
Bob, thanks again.
That looks like a good solution, and could possibly be done in situ for the front hose section of both lines.
Unfortunately there's another hose section on the return which appears to sit across the top of the transmission, so that one at least has to come out.
I'm not uncomfortable with having a go - just need to have a plan 'B'..
These lines can be fixed in situ. Standard fuel line and hose clamps are adequate because the lines run at very low pressure, just a few psi. I replaced sections of flex line near the radiator, in situ, for the cost of a foot of fuel line. There is a section of flex that is easy to replace when the transmission is out. The factory line uses banded clamps that look like high pressure clamps necessary for air conditioning hoses, not needed for transmission lines. I cut the banded clamps using a tiny rotary wheel due to restricted access. The quote I got from a shop was to replace the complete assembly of formed metal line with flex segments, partially remove the exhaust and transmission, and service the transmission fluid, with a pricetag over a thousand. I replaced flex sections near the radiator myself and paid to replace the other flex section while the transmission was out for rebuild.
Thanks, Mark.
I meant to ask if anyone knew the pressure they're subjected to. Mind, a burst won't take long to dump the oil and I don't want to give the box any excuses.
Originally Posted by markaltobelli2002
...replace the other flex section while the transmission was out for rebuild.
..that's the part that looks a pain. I'm thinking that I'll drop the exhaust off before the cat to make access easier.
Well after disturbing the lines when changing my ac condenser I now have a leak.
I am going to try to cut out the hose and replace with fuel line as suggested above as removing the exhaust for access will be a major pita.
Edit.
I did a bit more poking around, took off the heat shield on the side of the transmission and can now see where the cooler pipes attach.
I am wondering two things, how much oil will come out if I remove the bottom hose and is there enough room to withdraw it before it hits the catalytic converter?
Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; Jul 29, 2017 at 09:19 AM.
I haven't done any more than thinking how to approach it. Your pictures clearly show what a PITA it's going to be. The only consolation I can see is that the routing on the 6HP has both lines on the same side.
On the 5HP the upper line goes across the top of the box and there's another flexible section up there somewhere.
It looks tight, but you might be able to juggle the connection out as it doesn't go deep. There's a thread here that shows the lines - it's for an XJR but the second pic. show the connectors: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...28/#post913805
Is the cat a major job to remove? I'm thinking, for mine at least, that there's no alternative as I've go to get to the top hose. Failing that, you could try a repair in-place if you can get a dremel or similar around the crimp as you don't have that second flexible section to worry about.
The connections look as if they go in pretty low so I suspect that they're below the internal oil level. Opportunity for a fluid change or have you been there, done that?
Hi Michael, thanks for the pictures, in theory the cat should be easy to remove, but in reality more difficult as the studs on mine have almost rusted away and in fact the bottom of the cat may be so badly rusted that it may be damaged beyond repair by removal (I already had to change the other one).
The good news is that I now have a new plan, I have found two threads showing low tech solutions, one simply sealed up the join with epoxy glue, the other with self fusing silicon tape. I plan to seal the joint with Tiger seal, a PU sealant and see how it goes. Then when I do have to change the cat, I'll change the pipe at the same time.
As I've already done two flushes of the transmission, its not something I want to have to do again soon.
Well Michael, I saw this thread a while back and was hoping you had gotten around to it, as I assumed mine would be needing done soon. Well, soon was an understatement as I found a small drip or two underneath the last few times the car was driven. I pulled the air box out and found the joint between the rubber and hard line was weeping. The line connecting to the oil cooler up front is dry.
I like the idea of the stainless braided lines, but I'm thinking the simpler approach of fitting fuel lines would be easier. If I am understanding it, all that is needed is to cut the rubber line off with a razor and install fuel line in its place, securing with regular screw type pipe clamps, correct?
Whoops, thanks for the heads up, Bob! Looks like the fix is the same for the low pressure power steering line, though I'll probably just add some 3/8" line and a brass barb to reconnect to make it easy. Sounds like others have had success with it:
Sorry to hijack your thread, Michael. Back to the trans lines discussion, maybe you will beat me to them after all.
No worries: glad yours is the easier fix
On later cars like yours with the 6HP trans, both the lines attach on the same side (see RD's pictures earlier) so easier in theory...
I came across this pic. in another thread by Pete Mantell which shows the problem on the earlier 5HP where one of the lines runs across the top:
...so easy job if the exhaust & transmission are out of the way
I haven't progressed any further as yet as other priorities have taken over (you're never alone with a 300 yr old house) and the cat won't be straying far from home before next spring at the earliest. However, I do plan to sort over the winter.
taken in 2010 when we had mostly completed the renovation of the main house. The earliest we can trace back is to around 1730, and it is very typical of that period, although sadly it has lost its granite chimneys & there's no dated marriage stone over the front door.
It was apparently a working farm until just after WWII, and there are still some hay bales and potato boxes in the barn loft.
We're very proud of what we've achieved as it was in a sad state when we bought it; Mrs. H won the day here - it wasn't very habitable and I didn't see the potential. The only real challenge has been the obvious one.
There - I've just hijacked my own thread. I promise I'll post pictures once I've quit procrastinating and got the transmission lines done.
Did you ever do this and take pictures? I now have this seeping problem at the crimp nearest the radiator on the return line. It's leaking about 10 cc's a drive. I'm torn between trying to fix it and replacing that undulating hard/soft line (I guess I'd try to do both lines if replacement seems like the plan). Just curious how hard you found this to be.
Transmission oil cooler lines replace
