Hello,
XK8 2000 and should be ZF 5HP24
I would like to have my transmission serviced and replace the pressure valve with the new modification. Is there a complete kit I can order?
Thanks so much
Rande

 

Since there are 3 possible gearboxes fitted to the X100 Range, you might give a hint as to what car you have.(I hate mystery cars)

 

sorry for not putting that in the post.I have a 2000 and should be ZF 5HP24

 

There is not. You have to buy the valve kit (TransGo) separately, the pan gasket, fluid and filter may be available as a kit from FCP Euro or similar, although it's not a big deal to source them separately.

While the trans is apart, pull the valve body out and check the top, rear, section for cracks.

 

Make sure to use the correct fluid, and I'd recommend you stick to OEM for the filter (Jaguar JLM20216, or Land Rover LPW000030 may be slightly cheaper).

There's no real short-term urgency as noted in your other thread, but definitely keep it on your to-do list. I did the drain, filter/fluid replace & the Transgo mod as PM at 34,000 miles.

If you're doing this yourself, members BobRoy and DonB have produced an excellent write-up:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1648275

 

Thanks, what is the correct fluid? I have seen conflicting advice.

 

I use Liqui-Moly 1200 ATF. ZF is the trans manufacturer, so a gennie ZF filter *may* be a bit cheaper than a Jag-labeled one.

 

The official answer would be: ZF Lifeguard 5, which is Esso/Mobil LT71141. Nothing else.
I used the LT as I got a good deal on a 20L drum from the local heating oil supplier.

See this post from Don B which will give you an insight into why the subject is much debated, and also a list of alternatives:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2516024

@Y2KJag - I think the filter OEM is Filtran - both of the part #s above show on Heritage, but the Landy price is about 75 cents cheaper...

 

Thanks so much for your help, how many liters does the transmission need?

 

I admit I have no idea who actually manufactures them. It's odd that the Filtran site doesn't show this filter anywhere, not for BMW nor Jag.

That Jag part number cross-references to ZF P/N 0501 004 925. I used the ZF when I re-did my valve body recently. It looks like the genuine Jag one is slightly cheaper. They're both overpriced, IMHO. I was sooooo tempted to use the $12 one, but I talked myself out of it.

 

Michaelh,
I have never been more confused than trying to be proactive and have the transmission fluid, filter, gasket changed on this 36,000 XK8. Should I change the valve to the new modified pressure valve?
Also, thinking of changing the timing tensioners and guides to the upgraded versions, your thoughts?
Rande

 

It's entirely possible that I'm mistaken as I can't remember what, if any, markings were on the one I fitted. I just ordered the Landy parts from the local dealer as they were quite a bit cheaper (not so now).

Wise move to avoid the cheap ones as they can cause problems.

@rande - the box holds about 10 litres/quarts from empty, but you'll only get ~6 or 7 out on a drain as the rest stays in the torque convertor etc.

Folks generally do a second drain/fill after a few hundred miles or so to further dilute what's left of the old fluid.

Make sure you can get the fill plug out loose before you start - they can be tight.

 

thanks so much!

 

It can all seem a bit daunting, so just break it down into small pieces, and prioritise the jobs.

The two engine killers are #1 tensioners and #2 overheating caused by failed plumbing, so they should be at the very top of your list.

You can do a visual on the secondary tensioners by lifting one of the cam covers - the RHS one is easier as you don't have the dipstick tube to battle with. A 1/4" drive socket set will be your friend here.

For cooling, treat any and all of the rubber and plastic as suspect and just work your way through. None of it is particularly challenging, but do be seated before you check the cost of the dreaded 'octopus'...

Yes, I would change the PR valve when you get to the trans as you are part way there already with the pan and old filter off.

ZF did upgrade the 'A' drum and valve but not before late 2000 so very unlikely to be in a MY2000 car.

 

It's not always the mileage, but the age. IIRC ZF recommends service every 60K miles, but that may be off a bit due to fuzzy memory. Regardless, it can't hurt. As a matter of course you should replace the valve as preventative maintenance. You probably don't have enough mileage for the upper half of the VB to have cracked, and replacing the valve will help to postpone that, IMO.

If the secondary tensioners are plastic-bodied, they must be changed. The plastic ages, gets brittle, disintegrates, you lose chain tension, valves are introduced to pistons, bad things happen.

As ​​​@michaelh said, pull the cover and check, and treat all rubber and plastic as suspect unless you have proof of recent replacement. The PO of my car ignored the leaks until the plastic thermostat housing joined the enemy and the subsequent overheat ruined the heads. So, if you still have the plastic housing, replace it with the aluminum one.