Valve adjustment -heads off
#1
Valve adjustment -heads off
Greetings!
I have slowly been working on the BRG kitty, and am back on the assembly line putting the heads back together after a thorough cleanup. Things are looking good with no bent or damaged valves, and no marks on any pistons, in spite of what the "mechanic" told the PO.
My queston is this: Can I fully assemble the heads, camshafts and all, in order to check valve clearances, etc., and then get the crankshaft in the right position to drop the heads on and install the chains. As long as the cams are turned to allow for the locking bars to be installed, and the crank is set at 45 degrees after TDC, it would seem the heads could then be dropped into place with no issues.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks
TC
I have slowly been working on the BRG kitty, and am back on the assembly line putting the heads back together after a thorough cleanup. Things are looking good with no bent or damaged valves, and no marks on any pistons, in spite of what the "mechanic" told the PO.
My queston is this: Can I fully assemble the heads, camshafts and all, in order to check valve clearances, etc., and then get the crankshaft in the right position to drop the heads on and install the chains. As long as the cams are turned to allow for the locking bars to be installed, and the crank is set at 45 degrees after TDC, it would seem the heads could then be dropped into place with no issues.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks
TC
#2
I've not researched this for the Jag, but on every other car I've owned, if the cams are turned to the timing marks and the #1 piston is set to TDC, you're good to put the heads in place. But even though I've done this on several other type cars, I wouldn't put the heads on my own Kitty, until I'd thoroughly researched the procedure in the manual.
Even if you put everything into "intermediate" positions, so there's no interference when you put the heads on the block, you can still "crunch" something when you rotate the cams and crank into final alignment positions. These things are too delicate and too expensive to just "wing" potentially ruinous procedures.
BTW: Where are you sourcing the the tappet shims?
Good luck though. I really hope you're enjoying the assembly. It would be fun.
Even if you put everything into "intermediate" positions, so there's no interference when you put the heads on the block, you can still "crunch" something when you rotate the cams and crank into final alignment positions. These things are too delicate and too expensive to just "wing" potentially ruinous procedures.
BTW: Where are you sourcing the the tappet shims?
Good luck though. I really hope you're enjoying the assembly. It would be fun.
#3
#4
And THAT is why I'd never reassemble an engine without having good documentation right beside me.
Even when reassembling something as simple as a Triumph straight-six, I found all sorts of gotchas in the procedure that I would have missed without having a detailed work shop manual (that I reviewed endlessly!).
Even when reassembling something as simple as a Triumph straight-six, I found all sorts of gotchas in the procedure that I would have missed without having a detailed work shop manual (that I reviewed endlessly!).
#5
Thanks for the replies so far. Rest assured I am following the guides and manuals available. Since the timing gear is installed when the crank is set at 45 degrees after TDC, that is where I wiould have things set before dropping on the heads. Thus my question about having the cams locked where everything is done for the timing chains.
However, after looking further at the heads themselves, it is clear my idea cannot work. The holes for the head bolts themselves are beneath where the cams go, so they must come off before the heads can be mounted. I will check the cam to bucket clearances and then pull the cams again.
Sorry for the wasted post.
TC
However, after looking further at the heads themselves, it is clear my idea cannot work. The holes for the head bolts themselves are beneath where the cams go, so they must come off before the heads can be mounted. I will check the cam to bucket clearances and then pull the cams again.
Sorry for the wasted post.
TC
#6
Not wasted. We ALL learn stuff from these things.
You never said where you were sourcing the tappet shims. When I raced a Fiat, I had an entire set, which was used almost monthly. Of course it had one quarter the number of valves and "Fiat" prices! I cringe to think what a similar set for the Jag would cost - lol.
You never said where you were sourcing the tappet shims. When I raced a Fiat, I had an entire set, which was used almost monthly. Of course it had one quarter the number of valves and "Fiat" prices! I cringe to think what a similar set for the Jag would cost - lol.
#7
With the crank locked in place there is NO piston at TDC so the valves CANNOT touch a piston.
You could bend a valve if the head is dropped 'off-center' and the valve touches a block surface instead of being centered over the cylinder.
You can install the head, THEN snug the cam caps and opening some of the valves OR you can install the cams completely and CAREFULLY lower the head into place.
Your Call!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
You could bend a valve if the head is dropped 'off-center' and the valve touches a block surface instead of being centered over the cylinder.
You can install the head, THEN snug the cam caps and opening some of the valves OR you can install the cams completely and CAREFULLY lower the head into place.
Your Call!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob gauff
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#8
Shims will likely come from the usual sources, but at this point, I don't know what is needed. Once everything gets measured, my hope is that all will be in spec, but the car had some miles on it, so gaps will likely have increased.
Time will tell. It is fun moving forward on putting things back together.
TC
Time will tell. It is fun moving forward on putting things back together.
TC
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