Yep even here in the desert climate of the Middle East ( 45degC in the shade 120degF) my AC blows cold and it’s comfortable in my XK8 cabin.

Check the usual culprits, and “gas up” at a competent AC garage. May just be a leak somewhere or otherwise you’re overdue for a new AC compressor which is expensive but easy to fit (once system is de-gassed).

 

compressors not that bad - I bought a complete kit from this site for ~350 a year or so ago

https://shop.buyautoparts.com/search...%20year%3a1997

 

Normally when I see this warning, this tells me I’ve forgotten to put the car battery on the tender. But this time I didn’t forget. So , as I’m a cheap skate, I decided to try cleaning the wheel speed sensors as a first fix.

Front sensors were easy to reach just by turning the steering to full lock. Can also reach the associated wheel reluctor cog to brush and clean.

Easy access to the Rear wheel sensors needed the wheels to come off.


view from front



Sensor is on top of the hub, behind the dust shield



There was no access to these reluctor cogs as they are buried in the hub, behind the half shaft couplings. All I could do was hit it with brake cleaner spray.

Let’s see if this fixes my intermittent ABS warning. Otherwise it’s time to hit the ABS module’s solder power pins.

 

Went for a cruise today, which I haven't done in at least a month, My 2002 XK8's engine speed stayed too high (Approx 1500 RPM) while in gear, and car drove 20+ MPH with no foot on the gas. Put her in neutral and it dropped to 800 RPM (normal for my car). Tried to put WD-40 on the throttle wire, but that did not help. Any ideas? TY

 

I would disconnect battery and touch the 2 disconnected battery terminals together leave for 10-15 mins then reconnect it could be an ECU/learning glitch?
Pretty sure my idle is 625rpm

 

The car battery was dead before I drove it, so that sounds good. TY for the idea. If you don't mind I have another question. The car make a whining noise while driving. Could be a bearing noise. Thought it was a bad tires and they were older, so I replaced them. Still nave noise. Any idea of a likely culprit? TY

 

If it is only while moving yes could be bearing but Transmission and Diff can whine too?
Try and upload a video with noise or link to video makes it easier to diagnose.

 

Replaced the coolant sensor plug as the little plastic t*tty that breaks off had done so some time back.
It is a TE Econoseal type 070 EJ MK-2, part # 2822362-4. Available from RS export as part #712-1337.

I destroyed the old plug rather than risk damaging the pins: it fell apart easily. The new plug appears to have slightly different design as the yellow pin locking tabs aren't needed.

If only every job was so simple.

 

Well done....

 

My wife and I finished installation of the headliner in our new-to-us XK8 Coupé. We removed the panel, stripped off the old fabric and glue, and re-covered the panel.

While we were able to remove the panel with the right front seat in place, we did remove the seat (and the rear seat) for reinstallation.

Still need to re-cover and install the A-pillar trims, but that'll be easy.


carter

 

Nothing special, just changed my oil and adjusted my throttle cable

 

It's a good news, bad news, bad news situation.

Good news: the alternator removal was fairly easy and quick
Bad news: the 'pre rounded' bolt took the largest part of the time (about 5 minutes with penetrating oil and an extractor) because
Bad news: the regulator connector came 'pre broken' and was fairly easy to remove

Lessons learned (again, but failed to heed)
1. Rule #1 with XK8 parts: If they bolt to something, order the bolts too. It will save time.
2. Rule #2 with XK8 parts: It doesn't matter if you order the bolts, something else will be broken that will take an equal or greater amount of time to acquire.

Now I'm left to ponder who left the broken connector on the alternator and why, and whether the 'pre rounded' bolt was a failed attempt to take it off or some crazy person stripping it when putting it back on.

Bottom line, alternator repair will take days...

 

"Murphy" strikes again. Postulate to Murphy's Law, "Murphy was an optimist."

 

My first time.....changing the transmission fluid and seals. So far have been able to get past the first and second difficult tasks; first being getting the fill plug loose, second, getting the mechatronics sleeve out. I have the mechatronics bolts loose but not removed yet, letting it drip over night, Tomorrow will be remove the mechanics, replace the tubular and bridge seals, check the resistance of all the solenioids (just to be sure), re-install the mechanics. Then it will be #3 difficult task...getting the new mechanics sleeve into place. Install the filter/cover, fill with fluid, start engine and cycle through the gears as I monitor temp. Then #4 difficult task...getting the fill plug in without burning arm. Will see how tomorrow goes.

 

I put som clear on the wooden piece of my keyboard. This replaces the ashtray.

 

Took me four attempts at getting the mechatronics back in....only because I thought it was not in when it actually was. So I made a not really difficult task into a difficult task....but it is in, bolts torqued.
Got difficult task #3, installing the mechatronic's sleeve done...which was actually a lot easier than installing the mechatronics.
Installed the filter/cover, all 21 bolts torqued.

Now comes the fluid fill.....need to make a hardware store run to get a 90° fitting for my fill hose....and then to the final difficult task, #4...getting the fill plug in over the hot exhaust pipe.

 

I took my XKR for a drive, checked Freon pressure in system and have come to the conclusion I have a bad fuse or relay, no way to figure out which is which since there's nothing says what anything is for.

 

Thanks to the foresight and generosity of Dennis (Dennis07), I installed the his spring pressure modifier for the top hydraulic pump on two cars today after he graciously mailed a couple to me in February, coinciding with the beginning of the 'crazy times'.

I discovered today that old cars may need a bit more pressure to reliably raise the roof than they did a while back, much like their owners.

So, Dennis's instructions have 2/3 turn spring engagement after low pressure valve closure. i needed about 1 turn to make both tops operate in case someone else is doing this with a 20 year old car.

Thanks again, Dennis.

 

Well done....

 

I had next to no time, so I sprayed the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Hopefully this influences the p0171, p0174/restricted performance.

I found that the connector 'latch' was not there, so, another connector hunt or yet another precision application of 'high temperature cable ties'.