Wheel bearing problem
#1
Wheel bearing problem
Have a 2005 XK8 in great shape with 75,000 miles. I drove it north on the freeway 3 hours. When I stopped for gas, I noticed white smoke coming from the left rear wheel.
I test drove it a little and heard the familiar sound of a clunking wheel bearing. I stopped at a nearby shop where the mechanic confirmed that it was a bad wheel bearing.
He told me the bearing had basically disintegrated and the white smoke was from burning grease. I'm completely unsure how long I must have driven on the freeway with it before I stopped and saw the smoke, but surprised I wouldn't have heard the bad bearing while on the road.
Mechanic kept car for 2 days, had tough time getting it apart as some have mentioned on this forum. He said that an inside aluminum race had been damaged by driving on the bad bearing, but seemed to be okay. He also said that an ABS sensor might be damaged, but couldn't confirm. I have no ABS light on my dash. He assured me everything was fine.
I drove 3 hours back home on the freeway with no issues. I stopped twice to be sure there was no smoke, and I heard no noise.
I pulled into my driveway and set the hand brake as drive is on an incline. Short time later I moved the car. Heard a loud pop from the left rear wheel as I reversed out, and another one as I drove about 40 feet at 15mph.
Parked the car overnight, and tested again today at 15mph. Now I get a ticking noise from the left rear wheel, and after driving for 1/2 mile got the pop again.
Washed the car and returned it to the driveway. Noticed scoring on the rotor (pictured). There doesn't appear to be any drag while driving.
Might the hand brake have caused the problem post bearing install? Was something not properly re-installed? Could there be more damage than just the inner race? Could brake pad be rubbing more the rotor?
Anyway, I appreciate any thoughts you may have on my ticking and popping problem, THANK YOU!
I test drove it a little and heard the familiar sound of a clunking wheel bearing. I stopped at a nearby shop where the mechanic confirmed that it was a bad wheel bearing.
He told me the bearing had basically disintegrated and the white smoke was from burning grease. I'm completely unsure how long I must have driven on the freeway with it before I stopped and saw the smoke, but surprised I wouldn't have heard the bad bearing while on the road.
Mechanic kept car for 2 days, had tough time getting it apart as some have mentioned on this forum. He said that an inside aluminum race had been damaged by driving on the bad bearing, but seemed to be okay. He also said that an ABS sensor might be damaged, but couldn't confirm. I have no ABS light on my dash. He assured me everything was fine.
I drove 3 hours back home on the freeway with no issues. I stopped twice to be sure there was no smoke, and I heard no noise.
I pulled into my driveway and set the hand brake as drive is on an incline. Short time later I moved the car. Heard a loud pop from the left rear wheel as I reversed out, and another one as I drove about 40 feet at 15mph.
Parked the car overnight, and tested again today at 15mph. Now I get a ticking noise from the left rear wheel, and after driving for 1/2 mile got the pop again.
Washed the car and returned it to the driveway. Noticed scoring on the rotor (pictured). There doesn't appear to be any drag while driving.
Might the hand brake have caused the problem post bearing install? Was something not properly re-installed? Could there be more damage than just the inner race? Could brake pad be rubbing more the rotor?
Anyway, I appreciate any thoughts you may have on my ticking and popping problem, THANK YOU!
#2
The rotor scoring is not from the park brake. Below is the park brake it is inside the center of the rotor. I would not think a park brake sticking would effect a wheel bearing. As to the ticking and popping it may be one of the brake calipers are sticking.
Last edited by avern1; 01-04-2020 at 08:04 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (01-08-2020)
#3
+1
The scoring on the disc cannot be from the park brake BUT it could be from a worn out pad allowing metal-to-metal contact between the pad backplate and the disc.
The only way to find out what is causing the unusual noises is to get the rear of the vehicle off the ground so you can rotate the wheel by hand. Feel for any binding and listen for continuous noises as you rotate it or any that occur at a particular point in the revolution.
Next it's take the wheel off to visually check caliper and pads. The comment "Mechanic kept car for 2 days, had tough time getting it apart" is a concern. Home mechanics often have trouble with dismantling because of limited tools and facilities but a professional with a fully equipped workshop shouldn't take that long.
Graham
The scoring on the disc cannot be from the park brake BUT it could be from a worn out pad allowing metal-to-metal contact between the pad backplate and the disc.
The only way to find out what is causing the unusual noises is to get the rear of the vehicle off the ground so you can rotate the wheel by hand. Feel for any binding and listen for continuous noises as you rotate it or any that occur at a particular point in the revolution.
Next it's take the wheel off to visually check caliper and pads. The comment "Mechanic kept car for 2 days, had tough time getting it apart" is a concern. Home mechanics often have trouble with dismantling because of limited tools and facilities but a professional with a fully equipped workshop shouldn't take that long.
Graham
The following users liked this post:
Don B (01-08-2020)
#4
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