Has anyone experienced this problem?


The driver's window on my '97 XK8 rolls down when the door is opened. I went to the Jag dealership last month to let them run diagnostics and figure out what was causing the problem and they said it was a door module (LJE2120AB00) that they claim is VIN specific and has to be special ordered, so I told them to order it. Afterwards I got to thinking that even though the battery tested good for voltage, it may have a bad core since the car hasn't been a daily driver. Sure enough, I changed the battery and the window problem was miraculously resolved. So I cancelled the order for the door module thinking all was ok. But then last week I opened the door to get out and the window rolled down all the way again. I tried the reset procedure several times to no avail and the battery is just 3 weeks old and testing strong for voltage and amps. I checked the battery connections and everything is tight and making good contact. All of the other electrical components are working right on the car and this appears to be the only problem.


Surely someone has had this problem before and can tell me what solved it!

 

Posted in error

 

You will need to remove the door card to access it, but it is quite possible that the connection to the door module has vibrated loose or is corroded. I would remove it, clean and re-seat it making sure it is firmly mounted.
If that doesn't clear the problem it is possible that the limit switch that signals the window to open slightly to clear the roof might be bad.
Unfortunately the only way to really determine that the module is bad is to swap it with the passenger module. That means removing both door cards.

The modules are VIN specific but if you remove the module and record the part number you might be able to find a replacement on ebay or at a salvage yard. Matching the numbers is important but the letter on the end is the version if you have a B you can go to C or D but not to A. You can always go up a version but never down.

 

The part number should be on the VCATS label in the boot. (DDM)

bob

 

The tech at the dealership said he had seen the problem before and at least one owner had tried to use a replacement module he found online and it didn't work. I'm not against asking them to reorder the part if that's the problem, I just don't want to buy it if it's not the solution!

 

If it dropped a bit each time you move handle, I'd suspect bad switch (and on 97 the "passenger door open" would not display). But dropping all the way? Never heard of this sorry.

 

I'm still hoping somebody has had this problem and will see this thread.

 

OK Brad . . . I'll jump in to help but keep in mind that my car is much later; a coupe; and RHD to boot. Perhaps chalk and cheese, and even after reading your posts several times, I am still unsure of exactly what your problem is and whether my experience is relevant. However, maybe you can gain something from the following . . .

I have only experienced one such episode . . . suspected of being left for a few months while not connected to its smart charger. Once door was open, window inched down to clear roof rubber as normal, but on successive door open/shut cycles, steadily inched down further and further until fully down. How to get it to close again? Searched JF and found some had fixed by a system reset - disconnect battery leads and short them together, then reconnect battery.

I tried a different approach. While fully charging the battery, I read the Owners Manual - particularly the section devoted to global window and door functions. I started by turning IGN ON and using driver's door manual buttons to fully raise window . . . not so bright, coz then I couldn't close the door with window hitting roof. Repeated manual window down, then sat inside car, manually sent window up, watching it snick into the roof rubber. Turned IGN OFF and removed keys. Opened door to exit and was relieved to see window snick down 10mm and door opened normally. Once out, I carefully closed door . . . and was greeted by it snicking up into the roof rubber as it should . . . and it has never misbehaved since.

I believe that some PCMs around the XK8/R, but even more sensitive on S-Types of similar era, low battery voltage can cause glitches. I know a heap of programmable options exist for global functions, and it may be you do face the big bucks slug of a new PCM - but suggest you start with Owners Manual and consider reset or my approach.

Cheers,

Ken

 

If the problem does indeed prove to be the module, do get the dealer to recheck the part #. LJE2120AB is for later cars: earlier is LJA2120AB. I can't find a consistent changeover date/VIN - however, mine is an early 98 (VIN 020869) and the VCATS shows LJA2120AB.

I believe the same module was also used in the XJ saloon.

Hope it's something simple like wiring/connectors.

Good luck,
Mike

 

I am not convinced it is the module. As you had the window operating normally a short time after battery replacement, I would suspect a poor connection somewhere. But where?

Easiest is the connector in the door jamb between the hinges. Round connector, twist to open, spray sparsely with electrical cleaner (not WD40) and reconnect.

Connector to door module. Door card has to come off.

Connector to BPM (Body Processor Module). Glovebox has to come out.

Remove, inspect and reinsert relevant fuses.

If I remember correct you have three microswitches within the door latch. Known to fail. Complicated but possible to renew.

Battery cables fail internally or poor connection to body (negative) or to fuse box in trunk (positive).

Do you have any change with engine running or off?
Window switch operating normally?
Is global opening and closing operating normally?
Door open light works?

Numerous ground points all over the car. After 20 years all of them should be checked.

What codes did the dealer get?

 

That's what I'm thinking and why I'm hesitant to just have the dealer reorder the door module.

All of this is good advice, but I admit it's a little overwhelming for me since I'm afraid I'd break something else unintentionally.

Pretty sure it's good here.

No difference.

Yes

I don't think the car has this feature?

Yes

I've rechecked the diagnostic reports and don't see any codes listed. Only says "60368 Drivers side window dropping when opening door. Drivers door module relay sticking and causing window drop. Recommend replacing."

 

Good catch! I'll make sure they double check that before they order the part if that's my last resort as my VIN is 001921.

 

I also experienced the gradual drops as you described last year and the reset resolved that issue. This time it's just dropping all the way down when I open the door, and it doesn't matter if the car is running, off, keys in/out of ignition, etc. I suspected the battery so I got a new one and the problem disappeared for two weeks before coming back. Everything with the new battery and connections is testing perfect, so that's why I am puzzled.

 

Hmmmm . . . you have thrown us a curly one. I'll just add brief comments before begging beyond Easter to research your '97 wiring diagrams.

Can I summarize the following 7 vital bits of info . . .

• when door opens, window doesn't inch down but drives fully to bottom limit;
• no combination of keys in/out, engine off/run affect unwanted widow drop;
• car is NOT a daily drive, and you don't mention a connected smart charger;
• nowhere do you record the actual battery standing voltage - "good" is no good;
• you don't record when this first started to occur - eg since first buying car;
• new battery replacement eradicated problem for 2 weeks, but has now returned;
• the error wording "Drivers door module relay sticking" is decisive.

Comment . . . none appear intermittent. The third and fourth are super critical as these forums have shown repeatedly. For PCMs to work reliably, they demand a certain minimum voltage, so we must be specific when recording or reporting standing battery voltage. The fifth helps us to best understand if the issue was acquired with the car or, as I suspect given the third point above, an issue that has appeared during your non-DD ownership. The sixth suggests that new battery (perhaps supplied at a charge which your car does not maintain; see above) has temporarily overcome some circuit resistance . . . so, check ground/earth connections which your wiring diags are vital in pinpointing. The seventh cannot be ignored and suggests you need to locate and inspect . . . for ground connection/s but also whether the "relay" is discrete and can be swapped with a known good one, or is it integrated? As stated earlier, there are so many variables for model, year, RHD vs LHD that you must proceed on data specific to your precise car.

Plenty to do, easily doable, before ordering parts that you suspect (IMHO, correctly) have not yet been proven necessary.

Cheers and best wishes,
Ken

 

Indeed.

A couple of observations:
1) A sticking relay could cause the symptoms you describe, although I doubt the diagnostics is smart enough to pin the issue to a specific component within the module. If that is the case, then the window motor will remain powered under a stall condition when the window reaches its lower limit - not good. I wouldn't expect the 'window up' button to work in that state.

2) It's possible that the passenger side module is more tolerant of voltage drop, so doesn't exhibit any symptoms.

A question:
You state that the window switch works normally, so pressing the down switch does just that: the window opens fully. Can you interrupt it with a further down press - i.e. stop the window in mid-travel?

Do all the checks suggested in the thread first:- hold fire on the visit to the dealer...

Mike

 

Hi Brad, and very much provoked by Mike's thoughtful post, can I suggest you address his question of using the manual window switch but check even further . . . essentially, want you to initiate, interrupt, then reverse window direction using just the window switch . . . both up/down and across full limits of travel . . .

• do so while sitting in car with door closed, then open door, check interrupt/reverse while window is self lowering;
• repeat tests, again using manual switch, while door is open.

I'm starting to smell success is somewhat nearer at hand.
Best wishes,

Ken

 

AFAIK all XK8's have global opening and locking.
Insert key in door, turn clockwise and hold. All windows lower and soft top opens.
Opposite, turn key anticlockwise and hold and everything close and lock.

About battery. A new battery is not necessarily fully charged when you buy it despite what the seller tells you. I highly recommend an intelligent battery charger especially if the car is not a daily driver. CTEK is a well known brand.

Electrical cables may deteriorate inside without any visible signs. Turn on ignition without starting, turn on high consumers as lights and fan. Is the red cable from battery getting warm?

As said earlier, different connectors should be opened, cleaned and reconnected.

Best of luck.

 

Yes to the first two and I did get a battery tender to maintain the battery.

• Voltage is 12.94, CCA is 1110 on the new battery.
• I had the car six months without using a tender/maintainer before this happened the first time. The battery checked at 12.24 volts but only 370 amps, so that's why I changed it. When the problem went away upon installing the new battery, I assumed the battery had been the culprit. But now the new battery is good and the issue has resurfaced.
• To be clear, the error warning is what the dealer stated on the service report - not necessarily what their diagnostic machine indicated.

I will call the dealer Monday and see what error code they got which made them think it was the door module.

 

When I open the door, regardless if the engine is running, key on, key off, or key out, the window rolls down all the way and I can't stop it with the switch.

 

Window switch works with door closed or open. But if the door is closed with the window up, it goes down when the door is opened and can't be interrupted while door remains open. If I shut the door while the window is going down, it will stop.