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Hello,
I've searched several threads on MAF sensor cleaning, but can't find any infomation on how to access the wires on my 98 XK8. Part no. LJA1620AE.
I can't find any way any way to clean them other than spraying down the back of the tube which seems ineffective. This part costs about $400, so I'd like to clean rather than replace.
Thanx for any help, Rick
Does your actual MAF section unscrew and pull out? The 1999 and up are slightly different and the housing stays in place and the actual sensor comes out of the top. Can you undo those two screws and pull the sensor assembly out? That makes cleaning a lot easier.
The photo is from Barrat's website. That's the only listing for an MAF Sensor for a 98, and it's $419.56. Here's some photos of my three 4.0 cars showing the difference. 1) 01S Type 2) 99XK8 3) 98 XK8.
Thanx again to all.
Rick I
Get the later model housing and MAF. The housing are all over eBay at more or less reasonable prices. The new MAF’s are not that expensive for the XK-8’s, as it is shared with some Mazda models. (The XKR’s MAF is rather pricey).
the obvious reason the MAF was changed to the removable type is that it cannot be effectively cleaned without pulling it out.
Thanx again to all,
I had sprayed into the venturi assuming the sensor wire was in there, but was skeptical, hence my questions. I am not chasing any codes, just reassembling after finally finishing my timing chain replacement, so replacement can wait, but I'd like to know if I can take the air box cover from the 99 and use the 99 sensor on the 98. I had read a thread earlier about swapping for a later sensor, and the conclusion was no in that case, but I believe it involved an XKR. I have some difficult decisions to make regarding that 99 XK which properly belong in a new thread, but this question fits here.
Best, Rick
There are 2 sensors in the MAF unit. The low hanging air temperature sensor bulb, and the MAF sensor which is 2 wire arrangement tucked way up inside the plastic tube. I don’t see how any amount of spraying a quality MAF cleaner like the CRC brand, would do any good unless the MAF unit can be lifted up and out of the larger housing. Not possible with the non removable unit.
even so, it takes 3-4 spraying sessions to get mine clean enough to make a difference in it’s effectiveness.
Thanx Zray.
I agree on the futility of trying to clean the 97–98 MAFS. As I hinted, I am considering cannibalizing my 98 not just for this, but for other major parts. Do you know if the 99 MAFS will work on the 98 EMC and engine?
Best, Rick
Thanx Zray.
I agree on the futility of trying to clean the 97–98 MAFS. As I hinted, I am considering cannibalizing my 98 not just for this, but for other major parts. Do you know if the 99 MAFS will work on the 98 EMC and engine?
Best, Rick
Thanx Zray.
I agree on the futility of trying to clean the 97–98 MAFS. As I hinted, I am considering cannibalizing my 98 not just for this, but for other major parts. Do you know if the 99 MAFS will work on the 98 EMC and engine?
Best, Rick
I don’t know. I put that in the category of “it’s worth a try”.
hopefully the more knowledgeable will chime in with a definitive response.
1. If its not broken - dont fix it
2. If its broken - buy a new (original) quality part.
As my father (age 86) always has told me: it is expensive to be poor.
Because when you try to save money you often end up with two new parts. A cheap one that dont work and a new good one that fixed the problem
1. If its not broken - dont fix it
2. If its broken - buy a new (original) quality part.
As my father (age 86) always has told me: it is expensive to be poor.
Because when you try to save money you often end up with two new parts. A cheap one that dont work and a new good one that fixed the problem
Thanx NorXKR,
When I was a teen, I was the repairman for my father's (gone many years now—if I live two more days, I'll be 78) greenhouse business. When Dad would see me coming, he'd say, "If it costs money, I'm against it." Then I'd explain why I needed to replace a part on the boilers or some other equipment. His answer was always, "Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without." I guess that's why I have so many 'Barn Cats' waiting for attention, and my 55 year old son who is having a 95 Firebird Trans Am restored at a professional shop has had me fabricate two NLA parts, and when another NLA part turned up, I sent his mechanic instructions on how to repair it, and he promptly sent it to me to fix. Now that's cheap! Or is it lazy?
Best, Rick
1. If its not broken - dont fix it
2. If its broken - buy a new (original) quality part.
As my father (age 86) always has told me: it is expensive to be poor.
Because when you try to save money you often end up with two new parts. A cheap one that dont work and a new good one that fixed the problem
Or, as the Mexicans say, Lo barato sale caro! The cheap option turns out to be expensive!
I agree with both of you that quality wins every time. I am, right now, putting the oil in my XK8 after finishing up my primary timing component replacement project, begun last July, but delayed by many things including two attempts to avoid buying Jaguar guides due to the high price, but having to return them, because they were unusable. At 78, I no longer have time to waste.
Relatively new Jaguar owner here. I bought a 2001 XK8 with just 63,000 miles on it. When I plugged my OBD2 into it when I got it home it showed a code for a "throttle motor malfunction" which turned out to be a bad relay which I replaced. After clearing the code I now can't get the CAT and CCM monitor to clear. I've tried all the "drive cycle" procedures and they're still reading INC. I've searched dozens of videos and tried all the suggested "sure fire" methods and the INC code is still there. I saw a video regarding cleaning the MAF sensor to correct any fault codes in that area, which I'm not getting, but figured it couldn't hurt so that was today's project. That's why I found this thread. Hopefully that will work. I've removed the air cleaner and attached a photo of what the temp sensor looks like. I guess I'll have to take the unit off to actually get to the MAF sensors and spray them with the MAF cleaner.
If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.
By the way, since I'm not getting any fault codes and just the issue with the monitors, do I have to go through the clear the codes with the OBD2 after I clean the MAF sensor?
By the way, since I'm not getting any fault codes and just the issue with the monitors, do I have to go through the clear the codes with the OBD2 after I clean the MAF sensor?
All you can do to clean these MAF sensors it to try to direct the spray up into the tube. Cleaning the temp sensor (that bulb) is easy. You do not have to reset codes after cleaning the MAF.
However, cleaning the MAF may very well not fix your inability to set the CAT monitor. A couple of us are having that very same issue. Mine used to take quite a while to set, but eventually it would. But now mine won't, either. Doing the drive cycle will just frustrate you and all the other drivers on the road. Sometimes bum downstream sensors can cause it. Other times it's a weak cat. You can use your scan too to check the downstream sensor voltage. It's supposed to be a fairly steady 0.65v, more or less, with small variations.
I have had some, but not universal, success with Cataclean.
The downstream O2 sensors are on the way. They're supposed to be here next week.
This is what the sensors looked like when I took the unit off with the 2 screws. I sprayed everything with some MAF Sensor cleaner and put it all together. I've got to make a run to pick up the grandson from school in a little while I'll do that and then see if there's any change to the CAT monitor. I'm not expecting any.
X100 MAF sensor access
